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WORD-SKETCHES 



THE SWEET SOUTH. 



WORD-SKETCHES 



IX 



THE SWEET SOUTH 



MAEY CATHEKINE JACKSON. 






\> 







* 



LONDON : 
RICHAKD BENTLEY AND SON 

publishers in: ©rbirrarg to %tx |ftajcstn. 
1873. 



[Tkc Ri^ht of Publication and of Translation is reserved.} 



LONDON : 

PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWKS AND SOW 

STAMFOltD STREET AND CHARING CliOaS. 



.J 14 



Not so much to the favoured few, who, with 
light heart and heavy purse, may wander where 
they list in search of the beauties of Nature and 
of Art, as to the less fortunate many, who, bound 
by home or business ties, cannot leave their own 
firesides, and must there accept the descriptions of 
others, — and to the millions of British taxpayers 
to whom any account of their fair possession the 
Rock of Gibraltar, should be of interest, these 
Sketches are presented. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAP. 


PAGE 


I. — Thither 


1 


II. — Gibraltar .. 


29 


III.— The Rock 


42 


IV. — Life at Gibraltar 


54 


V. — Tangier 


68 


VI. — Tangier — continued 


90 


VII.— The Fiesta 


.. 123 


VIII.— Cadiz 


143 


IX.— Seville 


163 


X. — Seville — continued 


.. 181 


XL — Cordova 


198 


XII. — Journey to Granada 


209 


XIII. — Granada 


229 


XIV. — The Alhambra 


.. 251 


XV. — Granada to Malaga 


268 


XVI.— L' Adieu 


. . 287 



Where are the Songs of Summer ? — With the Sun, 
Oping the dusky eyelids of the South." 



Hood. 



WOBD-SKETCHES 



THE SWEET SOUTH 



CHAPTER I. 

THITHER. 



" There will not be a berth at our disposal in 
any of the P. and 0. steamers for the next six 
weeks." 

Such was the unsatisfactory reply of the com- 
pany's agent, to an application for a passage to 
Gibraltar in the autumn of 1870. But it might 
have been anticipated, as at that season the boats 
are always crowded, not only with pleasure- 
seekers and invalids flitting southwards with the 
swallows, but with officers and others bound for 
India, who time their departure thus, that they 
may arrive at their stations in the torrid zone at 
the coolest period of the year. 



2 WOBD-SKETCBES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

What was to be done ? The writer, ailing, 
though not ill, was anxious to avoid the breath 
of the Frost-King, who was now advancing 
with rapid strides ; and there was no time to be 
lost. 

She decided, therefore, on undergoing the 
voyage in a steamer, which she will here designate 
as the " Tub " — one of a line plying between 
England and the Mediterranean, and advertised 
to sail immediately. 

The "Tub," 1400 tons, did not look so bad as 
she lay in dock ; and it was said that " her 
qualities surpassed her charms," that she was a 
good sea-going boat, heavy, but safe. The October 
sun shone brightly as the sailors weighed anchor, 
to that musical measure which is as stirring to 
mariners as the sound of the bagpipes to the 
Highland soldier. 

Hope and fear — the future and the past — seem 
strangely mingled in the rise and fall of its wild 
cadences; and hearts already swelling with 
emotion, respond to the thrilling tones. 

Orders were soon given that cleared the ship 
of all but passengers, through misty eyes we 



THITHER. 3 

watched the dear ones left behind, and waved 
" adieux " till we could see their forms no more. 

We were really " off." By-and-by came a 
claiming of carpet bags and small parcels, and an 
arrangement of cabins : and here it may be re- 
marked that, forty-two people being squeezed into 
the accommodation — and that somewhat meagre 
— intended only for twenty-five, the discomfort of 
the unfortunate voyagers was considerable. To 
add to the annoyance of the lady portion of the 
passengers, it was discovered that there was no 
stewardess on board. This, at the time, seemed 
an unpardonable omission ; but the steward, a 
certain " Charles," was so thoroughly efficient in 
his attendance on his fair charges, that they were 
soon in a degree reconciled to his ministrations. 

In the course of the day, we became cognisant 
of another unpleasant fact ; for, lying- to for 
awhile off a quiet spot on the Essex shore, some 
astute individuals found out that we were delayed 
there for the purpose of taking in a cargo of 
gunpowder ; and as barrel after barrel, to the 
number of 1050, was brought on deck and stowed 
away, our feelings of apprehension may be 

B 2 



4 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

imagined. Moreover, one of our anchors was left 
behind for repairs ; so that, in the event of diffi- 
culties arising, we were not altogether in a position 
to meet them. 

Now, the reader is not going to be wearied 
with minute details of a voyage on a well-known 
track ; but in order that he may sympathise with 
the writer, whom he is accompanying on her 
lonely way, a few particulars must be given of 
her experiences on board the " Tub," as they were 
rough ones. 

We went down Channel dead in teeth of a 
raging wind, and for two days and three nights 
were beating about, the sport of the elements ; 
scarcely making any headway. It had been 
proposed that we should return to the friendly 
shelter of the " Downs," but our captain kept on 
his course. Our poor ship seemed like a wounded 
animal struggling on, — at times quivering — then 
stopping as if stunned — then labouring on again, 
whilst heavy seas swept over her, extinguishing 
the engine fires ; and we, lying feeble and faint in 
our berths, could see nought but the green gleam- 
ing and snowy crests of the waves dashing against 



THITHER. 5 

our port — hear nothing but their awful roar — the 
sounds of suffering following every roll and lurch 
of the vessel, and the horrible thumping and 
grating of the screw. 

Charles admitted it was "roughish." "But 
what could any one expect with a parson on board ?" 
was his indignant query ; adding sotto voce, " I'd 
like to chuck 'un overboard ;" while his good- 
humoured pink and white face assumed a comically 
earnest expression. 

" And you believe all that sailor's nonsense ?" 

" Believe ! I should think so. Never yet went a 
voyage with a parson aboard, that we didn't get a 
rough time." 

" And where are we?" 

" Oh, off the Isle of Wight." 

" Why you said that yesterday." 

" Oh, did I ?" and Charles made off to avoid 
farther questioning ; for " off the Isle of Wight " 
had become a dismal joke in our little den. 

However, at last we fairly lost sight of the 
English coast; but we had to face the Bay of 
Biscay, still in turbulent unrest from the effect of 
equinoctial gales ; and the prospect was far from 



6 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

agreeable. For a day we had a respite. The sun 
shone out, and all who were able crept up on deck, 
to skate about there very helplessly — take note of 
their fellow-passengers — a motley assemblage of 
English, French, German, Dutch, Eussian, and 
Portuguese — see the glories of an aurora borealis 
flooding sea and sky with magical light, and then, 
wearied with the exertion, they gladly turned in 
again to their narrow berths, in anticipation 
of rest. 

But not many found rest that night. 

Towards midnight a gale was blowing, and in 
the intense darkness every danger seemed 
magnified, as the creaking of timbers and crashing 
of glass and crockery, the shrieks of terrified 
women and children, and anxious inquiries of 
nervous men, were added to the roaring of the 
waters and the howling of the storm. The wind 
tore one of our sails to ribbons, and did damage to 
the deck cabin — that was all ; but it sounded as if 
we were being crunched up by the air monster ; 
whilst the waves thundered down on the deck 
overhead with a tremendous boom, and ran 
swilling off in a river, giving us who were under- 



THITHER. 7 

neatli the sensation of being washed away with it 
— or, worse, of being drowned as we lay there, 
" cabined, cribbed, confined," in that narrow bed. 
It was an anxious time. The captain did not seek 
his pillow that night ; and Charles did not dispute 
the point, that we had " come in " for a bit of a 
breeze. " No, he didn't think it would be better 
soon — better lie down and go to sleep." His 
panacea for all our ills. 

" What progress are we making ?" was the 
question we asked him, when he looked in upon 
us in the morning. 

" Oh, beautiful !" was the reply ; but the grin 
accompanying it was suspicious. 

" Please open the port — it is so close in here." 

" Open the poart, Miss, did you say ? Open the 
poart? Ah! we'll see about that. What will 'e 
have for breakfast ?" this was added cheerfully. 

"Breakfast! Bah!" The smell of it was 
enough, as odours of fried fish, liver and bacon, 
and other delicacies, were wafted in from the 
saloon. 

We made another touching appeal to our 
Charles. 



8 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

"Now, Charles, will you open that port ?" 

" And get you all under water ? No, can't 
open a poart this weather." 

A roaring sea dashing against it at the moment, 
showed our Cerberus to be right. He grinned 
again, and, shaking up the pillow and smoothing 
the coverlets of our couches, continued his appe- 
tising suggestions. 

" Well, and what's it to be — 'am and eggs, 
chicken, curry?" 

" Nothing." 

"Then lie down and go to sleep." (Exit 
Charles.) 

Several days of this sort of thing were very 
wearying ; and often as we went " up to the heavens 
and down again to the depths," we thought of the 
Psalmist, as, like his, our souls " melted away 
because of the trouble ;" and earnestly we wished 
ourselves out of the Bay of Biscay. 

By-and-by, on the sixth day of our voyage, we 
heard the welcome news that we were nearing 
Cape Finisterre ; and in the night we passed over 
the fatal spot where only a few weeks before the 
"Captain" with her 500 souls had gone down. 



THITHER. 

How inky black the cruel sea looked thereabouts ! 
Deep, dark like lead, and heaving heavily with a 
lumbering swell, there was something inexpressibly 
mournful in that dreary waste of sullen waters, 
and in the associations linked with them. 

But after this "a change came o'er the spirit of 
my dream," as every hour was carrying us farther 
south. The skies cleared, a softer feeling was in 
the air, and most of the passengers went on deck 
and watched the porpoises disporting themselves, 
Mother Carey's chickens flitting about upon the 
waves, and a huge fish that at one time was seen 
in the distance, and pronounced by the learned in 
such knowledge to be a whale. Ships in the offing 
were looked for with interest, and when a sail came 
in sight there was excitement. " What was she ?" 
and " Whence came she ?" &c. ; and if she ap- 
proached within signalling distance our curiosity 
was generally satisfied on all points. 

And now each day we were drawing nearer and 
nearer to sunshine and summer. Balmier was the 
breeze, more brilliant the light, and richer the 
colouring of everything around, from the deep 
sapphire of the cloudless sky at noon to the tints 



10 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

of the waves' shadowed sides at evening. Exist- 
ence seemed a delicious fact to be cognisant of and 
thankful for, after all that we had gone through. 
People turned out of their close quarters; and 
some passengers, hitherto invisible, showed them- 
selves for the first time. Ladies brought work or 
novels, and sat, Cleopatra fashion, under the 
awning, on all the cushions and rugs they 
could muster, while the gentlemen lounged 
about smoking : but an indulgence in a dolce 
far niente spirit was the rule, and I for 
one resigned myself, in my languor and weak- 
ness, to a placid sense of enjoyment and calm 
content. 

The sun set upon this beautiful day in truly 
Eastern splendour. 

To northern eyes it recalled Warren's pictures. 
There was the pure, translucent atmosphere— there 
were the gorgeous colours — rose and flame blend- 
ing in wondrous harmony with sea-green and 
amber and sparkling gold, all softening into each 
other, though so intensely vivid in colouring, that 
one wondered how Nature had effected her start- 
ling combinations so " artistically." 



THITHER. 11 

Presently, the golden glow faded slowly, and 
gave place to a purple night lit by most luminous 
stars. We were gliding onwards on our course 
now, gently as in a dream. We had done with 
the horrors of the deep, and were experiencing 
its pleasures. 

Coteries were formed, couples paced the deck 
together, "flirtation" set in, and scandal. Our 
ship was a little world, and human nature ex- 
hibited itself in all its phases ; but fortunately the 
comic element predominated in the scenes we had 
to witness, and many a hearty laugh was enjoyed 
on board the " Tub." 

The coast of Portugal was dimly visible this 
afternoon — a faint grey streak in the distance on 
our left ; and on awaking early the next morning 
and going on deck, a beautiful view was my 
reward. 

There, against the pomona green of the orient 
sky, stood out the hills of the Cintra range — rosy 
red, with delicate mauve streaks marking their 
rugged slopes — a striking group of mountains. 
In the middle distance were pale, buff-coloured 
hills, relieved here and there by blots of green 



12 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

and madder-brown, — arid, parched-looking lands, 
but contrasting picturesquely in their semi-tones 
with the warmer roseate hues of the towering 
peaks and truncated cones of the chain of moun- 
tains beyond. 

Before us opened up the Tagus — at this point 
an estuary ; and soon we were steaming along its 
broad, full bosom, and gazing with interest on its 
shores. 

To the right rose bold, rocky hills, with villages 
and forts relieving at intervals the desolate air of 
the barren district. 

On the left the prospect was more cheerful. 

Vineyards and olive-grounds in continued suc- 
cession lay along the hillsides; villages — a cluster 
apparently of white walls, from the houses being 
flat-roofed and with few windows — were scattered 
here and there ; and innumerable white windmills 
dotted the landscape thickly, and broke with their 
whirling sails the sky-line of the low, brown hills. 

Cascaes with its fort and bay were thus passed ; 
Fort St. Julian and the town of Oeiras forming 
a fine sketch, backed by the mountains at Cintra. 
Suburban residences and fashionable hamlets shortly 



THITHER. 13 

appeared, indicating the vicinity of a large city ; 
and our attention was particularly attracted to 
groups of tents by the waterside, so numerous in 
some places as to resemble an encampment. 

These were for the accommodation of bathers ; 
and it must be owned that the arrangement is far 
more picturesque in effect than our English one of 
modern boxes, yclept machines. They looked ex- 
tremely pretty, and in their number were sug- 
gestive of cleanliness. 

By-and-by we came upon Lisbon. Like a guard 
as we approached it stood Belem Castle — familiar 
as an old friend from pictures and prints ; its 
square tower was unmistakable, and eminently 
picturesque-looking, seen as then, standing out 
against a dreamy distance of silvery water, and a 
floating forest of shipping — every object myste- 
riously indistinct in the gleams of the morning 
sun. 

Yery soon our steamer lay-to for a time, 
while the custom-house officers came on board ; 
and the amount of excitement they caused was 
amusing. 

These officials were an undersized, monkey-like 



14 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

set of men, dark almost as Indians ; so were the 
boatmen in the numerous boats that quickly sur- 
rounded the ship, shouting and gesticulating 
violently. 

The head official seemed a character. The 
sharp, screaming tone, in which in broken English, 
uttered with great rapidity, he asked the usual 
questions of the captain, and the brisk, comic way 
in which, when the formalities were gone through, 
he " turned about " and departed as he had come, 
raised many a laugh amongst the spectators of the 
scene. 

On we went, having the great city on our left — 
a mass of buildings of dazzling whiteness, piled up 
along the steep slopes, perched on the summits, 
and filling the hollows of the numerous hills, far 
more than seven, on which Lisbon is built. 

Convents, churches, palaces, attract the eye. 
Conspicuous amongst these latter is that of the 
" Ajuda," an immense edifice, stately and grand, 
seen crowning an eminence above Belem — that 
one called the Quinta de Baixo, or Dom Fernando's, 
a house close to the river, painted pink, and with 
green shutters, half embosomed in the foliage of 



THITHER. . 15 

its gardens, and looking a cool and pleasant retreat 
when contrasted with the glare around ; and the 
other Koyal Palace of " Necessidades." 

Presently there is a break, a dip as it were ; the 
buildings creep down, fill a broad level space, and 
then mount another hill, on which stands the castle 
of St. George. 

On this level space the best streets are built ; 
and fronting the water is the fine Prac,a do Com- 
mercio, called by Englishmen "Black Horse 
Square " (from the figure * on a black horse in 
the centre). An arch of white marble is the most 
conspicuous ornament, however, of this fine area. 
But of all the objects seen, perhaps the churches 
are the most noticeable ; for they and the convents 
are in number legion. Those of Santo Antonio da 
Se', of Santo Yincente de Fora, and of Nossa Senhora 
da Graga, are the most imposing from the river ; 
and the convents, many of them occupying airy 
heights, are also striking features of the place. 

On the opposite bank of the river are low hills, 
with forts and batteries, whose threatening teeth 
may be important for the defence of the fair city, 

* Dom Jose I. 



16 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH 

but would be equally so for her destruction if an 
enemy got possession of them : more windmills, 
more churches, with their rows of cypresses stand- 
ing like mutes in constant mourning ; and more 
public buildings. 

On the broad waters ships of every size, from 
the largest ironclad afloat down to the tiniest skiff 
that ever was trusted with human freight, are 
lying at anchor, or gliding along on the emerald- 
tinted flood. Truly there is variety in these 
nautical contrivances. 

Here they can be studied, the production of 
various nations ; but nothing attracts the lover of 
the picturesque more than those fairy-like little 
boats with lateen sail, which are peculiar to southern 
shores. They skim like swallows over the surface 
of the water, and are as much part and parcel of 
the scene as those aerial wayfarers. 

Over all — city, river, shipping, and distant 
country, as the morning advances, there arches 
the cloudless, blue — intensely blue sky ; and one 
observes that in these latitudes the shadows are 
deeper and blacker, and the high lights more bril- 
liant and dazzling than in our misty northern lands. 



THITHER. 17 

Form may not be fairer, but colouring is richer ; 
hence for the reason that most persons are inter- 
ested in paintings, while comparatively few can 
appreciate sculpture, scenes in the South excite 
universal admiration. Those on whom beauty ol 
outline would be lost, yield to the charm of lovely 
tints, and softly -blended hues. 

Brought to a standstill by-and-by as the steamer 
weighed anchor, many of our passengers were 
desirous of landing ; but there was much time lost 
before this could be effected, in consequence partly 
of our cargo of gunpowder having to be unshipped, 
and all hands being so engaged that one could get 
nothing done. 

Then the captain would not, or could not, give 
us a decided answer as to the time when we might 
expect to resume our voyage on the following day ; 
and as the idea of being left behind luggageless 
was by no means pleasant, everyone gave up the 
thought of visiting Cintra — (where it is usual to 
sleep when the excursion is made) — lest they 
should be placed in an awkward predicament ; at 
the same time, it was evident that our skipper 
wanted to be rid of us for the night. 



18 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

After much delay the writer lost patience ; and 
as no one else would take the initiative, she did, 
and two boats were quickly alongside, and freighted 
in a trice. 

As usual in landing in similar places, our party 
had no sooner stepped on shore than a crowd of 
excited cab-drivers and boatmen gathered round, 
clamouring for our patronage; and their tongue 
being unintelligible to us, and ours to them, a 
scene of altercation and confusion ensued that was 
ridiculous. A number of idlers of course collected, 
surrounding us most unpleasantly ; and but for 
the timely recognition of a Portuguese acquaint- 
ance by one of our party, there is no knowing how 
we should have managed. 

Carriages were secured (at an exorbitant charge 
by the way), and we drove through the principal 
parts of the city. 

The churches were, unfortunately for us, all 
closed ; for there had been grand performances in 
the morning, and now in the afternoon not one 
was open. 

The streets of Lisbon have a strong family like- 
ness to those of most Continental capitals : the 



THITHER. 19 

houses, very lofty and uniform, painted white, 
furnished with green jalousies, and balconies filled 
with flowers. 

The extreme steepness of some of the thorough- 
fares strikes a stranger ; and the reckless style in 
which the native Jehus rattle down them is 
startling. 

The " Passeio Publico," or Public Gardens, cover 
an extensive area, and are a charming place of 
recreation. 

Here the voyager from England may clearly 
realise the fact that he is in a southern climate, as 
he sees himself surrounded by tropical vegetation, 
and scents the rich fragrance exhaled by the 
numerous lily tribe. Towering above its fellows 
is the aloe, and by its side is the grotesque-looking 
prickly pear ; the graceful pepper-tree takes the 
place of our willow ; the oleander freely blossom- 
ing looks at home, and the datura's large white 
bells are pendent everywhere ; but nothing per- 
haps attracts Northern eyes more than the luxu- 
riant growth of our old friend the geranium. No 
longer struggling for life in a dwarfed state, the 

pink and scarlet varieties run riot in their growth, 

c 2 



20 WORD-SKETCHES IN TEE SWEET SOUTH. 

forming themselves into high hedges thick with 
strong leaf, and all ablaze with colour. 

The beautiful creeper, too, the Bougainvillea, a 
mass of bright magenta through the autumn and 
winter, forms a lovely drapery over many a trel- 
lised bower. Orange and lemon-trees abound, 
scenting the air with their delicious fragrance ; 
and round the ornamental ponds in these gardens 
ferns reach a size unknown to us in our cold clime. 
The way they are arranged is really pretty, though 
toy-like. There is a sheltering bosquet of shrubs, 
surrounding a glassy pool ; and on the brink of 
this, and dotting its surface in little islands, the 
water-loving ferns — gigantic ' maidenhair ' amongst 
them — grow in masses. Swans glide about in the 
cool, green shadow, and delight the rising genera- 
tion of Lisbonese. 

The latter were all dressed en fete this day, and 
the attire of some of the ladies was of the gayest. 
Pink and blue satin dresses were not uncommon 
amongst them ; whilst the gentlemen showed by 
their lemon-coloured kid gloves that they were en 
grande tenue. 

We afterwards walked through some other 



THITHER. 21 

gardens — those of the Estrella — which combine 
zoological with botanical attractions ; saw the 
Aqueduct, which is a fine erection, and drove to 
various points commanding views of the city. In 
the course of our peregrinations a large and hand- 
some building was pointed out to us as a " National 
School " ; but I failed to make out on what plan it 
is conducted. 

Purposing to pay another visit on shore if pos- 
sible on the following day, we drove back to the 
quay in time to see one of the most magnificent 
sunsets it would be possible to imagine — one that 
Claude Lorraine would have gazed on with loving 
eyes as he drank in its inspiration, and that our 
own Turner would have studied con amove. 

They only could worthily have depicted the 
scene before us. 

There hung the great sun, a nucleus of rich 
golden light, and from it long rays extended far 
up into the heavens — distinct rays, each a tremu- 
lous column of fire ; while the broad waters of the 
Tagus reflected the brilliant whole in softened 
beauty. When the sun dropped below the horizon 
it was suddenly night, and we did not much relish 



22 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

the row to our steamer in the darkness ; as it was 
anchored some distance out, and we had conse- 
quently to run the risk of crossing the course of 
several vessels moving up or down the river : this, 
without a moon, was not agreeable, and we had 
been particularly warned by our captain against 
delaying our return till nightfall. 

However, we safely reached our floating home, 
and longed for the morning, when we intended 
resuming our rambles on land. 

But this, when it was mooted at breakfast, was 
opposed on the ground that we should be getting 
under weigh almost immediately. 

Time passed, and there was enough going on 
around us to keep eyes and ears occupied, and the 
mind amused, had we not been victims to discontent. 
It was the King's birthday, and the shipping was 
all gaily dressed, and salutes were fired in honour 
of the auspicious day. As the guns of Belem down 
the river gave the answering salute to the forts up 
above, and foreign vessels fired their compliments 
from their different stations, the scene on the water 
was very animated. Across from the town came 
the clanging of bells to add to the din ; and all 



TIIITIIEB. 23 

around us the lively, half-naked, dark-skinned race 
of sailors and fishermen kept up a constant shout- ■ 
ing, jabbering, or monotonous sing-song chant. 
But it was tantalizing to see the city and its con-' 
vents and churches, with which we were so desirous 
of making acquaintance, and to be unable to go 
on shore ; while hour after hour that might have 
been spent there so pleasantly passed by, and the 
threatened start was not made. This was pro- 
voking, and a trial of temper, for we did not put 
to sea until the afternoon. We doubled Cape St. 
Vincent early the next morning, the first of No- 
vember. It was almost impossible to believe that 
we had entered that month of dismal English asso- 
ciations, the day being one of summer perfection. 
The Atlantic was at rest, scarce a ripple disturbing 
its calm surface. TVe floated smoothly over it with 
a delicious sense of enjoyment ; and when night 
fell, we lingered late, amusing ourselves for the 
last time in noticing the phosphorus playing on 
the waves along our track, and illumining the 
deep funnel of the screw to the brightness of day ; 
and in watching the moon set in great beauty. 
[t was too dark when we steamed into Cadiz 



24 WORD-SKETCHES IN TEE SWEET SOUTH. 

harbour to see more, by the light of the stars, than 
*a ghostly row of white buildings, and the twinkle 
of numerous lights marking the coast ; but as this 
place was to be revisited, it was only a gratification 
postponed. 

Towards dawn, we were nearing the Straits of 
Gibraltar ; and then, to the great fright of some of 
the passengers, a thick fog came on, obliging us 
to lie to and keep up a series of screeching signals ; 
and as these were answered by similar screeches 
from vessels in unpleasantly close proximity to 
us, our sensations were far from agreeable. 

By-and-by, however, the mist cleared away, 
hysterical alarm and its attendant sounds ceased 
in the ladies' cabins, and we were able to pursue 
our course. 

In the grey twilight I went on deck, that I 
might not lose the view of the scenery we were 
approaching. The sailors were washing the 
decks, and there was no rest for the sole of a 
lady's foot ; so the captain — a jolly fellow who 
had taken command from Lisbon — helped me up 
to his bridge, and kindly acted as finger-post to 
the points of interest on either hand. Save a 



THITHER. 25 

poor Moor carrying on his ablutions under diffi- 
culties, no other passenger seemed awake. 

On our left was the Spanish coast; hilly, 
sterile, it presented an imposing landscape, in 
which brown and purple colouring predominated ; 
and there was the sandy sweep of Trafalgar Bay : 
but the blue line to the south was what my eyes 
sought most eagerly. 

" Barbary coast, Miss." 

Africa ! another quarter of the globe ! that 
mysterious continent still to some extent a terra 
incognita to the civilised world ; and that was its 
outer rim. The pale, undulating line had a 
peculiar fascination. 

We drew nearer and hearer, and soon Tarifa 
was to be seen on the Andalusian shore, a good- 
sized, ancient town, with its mole, whereon stand 
a lighthouse and a fort, extending some distance 
into the sea ; and opposite to this place where the 
straits are only ten miles wide, stands Tangier, 
looking like the original of the pictures in i Blue- 
beard,' or ' Wars of the Crusades,' a thoroughly 
Oriental city, with white battlemented walls, 
domed tombs, tall minarets, and spreading palms. 



26 WOIW-SEETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

A warm glow was spreading over the eastern 
heavens ; and gradually as we advanced through 
the straits, a scene of extraordinary magnificence 
developed itself. 

In a sky of bright flame-colour, the morning 
star hung ; pure and silvery in its radiance, 
reminding one of an innocent spirit, serene and 
calm, in an atmosphere all aglow with fiery 
passion. In the horizon, purple clouds, fold upon 
fold, melted in with the outline of the distant 
Atlas range ; and above them, streaks of a 
crimson and orange hue, heralded the sun's 
uprising. 

On our right was Ape's Hill, — a grand, conical 
shaped mountain, with barren, rocky sides, 
descending on its northern face precipitously to 
the water's edge. The summit of its cone was 
now suffused with a lovely rosy hue, while the 
lower parts remained in deep shadow. 

Brighter and brighter each instant grew the 
illumined peaks, while one by one, every high 
point of the neighbouring chains of hills was 
tipped with gold. 

This effect is common enough in all Alpine 



THITHER. 27 

countries, and nothing of the kind could surpass 
the beauty of some of the views at dawn, seen by 
the writer in Switzerland ; but here, there was 
another element, one which was lacking there — 
the sea. This, with the growth of light, became 
in itself a picturesque study ; for the dancing 
waters reflected every tint of carnation, blue^ and 
amber from sky and mountain ; while the wave- 
crests sparkled as if they had been strewn with 
jewels, and glistened with the brilliancy of 
diamonds and rubies. 

It was an ' effect ' never to be forgotten. 

And now there is general excitement; for 
beyond that jutting promontory, Cabrita Point, 
looms up our goal, " the Rock ; " and very grand 
that small but important possession of ours looks. 
Like a lion couch ant, fit emblem of the nation that 
won and wears the prize, it lies at the extreme 
end of the continent of Europe, and the isthmus 
that connects it with the mainland being but a 
strip of land about a mile in width, Gibraltar seen 
in the distance, has the appearance of an island. 

Beyond it, dimly visible, rise the snow-capped 
mountains of Granada ; while those of Andalusia 



28 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

half encircle the bay, and stand tier above tier, 
range beyond range, displaying every shade of 
rich yet delicate colouring, till lost in the tender 
blue of the horizon. 

As our captain gives the " Pearl Kock," since 
so famous, a wide berth, he thinks he descries a 
vessel in difficulties upon it ; and for a few 
minutes he gazes steadfastly at the object through 
his glass, saying the while, that if it be a ship in 
trouble, he must go to her assistance. There is 
an anxiety felt as to the result of his long looking ; 
but at length he makes out that his help is not 
required, and we go steaming on up the straits 
and into the bay, and are soon anchored off the 
town. Here, we gaze with wondering eyes for a 
moment on that overshadowing cliff, so seamed with 
batteries, and dotted with habitations. There is 
an air of grandeur upon it, seen in the morning 
shadow. The next moment we are in the be- 
wilderment of being bundled, amidst the usual 
hissing of steam and vociferations of seamen, 
into landing boats ; and get safely on shore. 

Thank God ! 



( 29 ) 



CHAPTER II. 

GIBRALTAR. 

There are few impressions that are more mis- 
taken, than the ordinary one entertained by people 
at home, respecting the Rock of Gibraltar. You 
hear it called a " barren rock," a " sun-dried spot," 
&c, and fancy conjures up a scene of stony 
desolation and arid discomfort, calculated to make 
you pity the martial Briton who is ordered to such 
a station. 

Misplaced sympathy. It is certainly true that 
the area of the Rock is rather circumscribed ; 
that the vegetation which clothes and beautifies 
its western and southern slopes, is not of a kind 
to sustain human life ; and it is also true that the 
six months of summer are usually unpleasantly 
warm ; but these objections named, the worst has 



30 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

been said, and it cannot be denied that the beauties 
and advantages possessed by this bit of English 
land in the sunny south, far counterbalance its 
drawbacks. 

The little peninsula lies almost due north and 
south. It is three miles in length, and about one 
in width at the base of the hill, which however, 
narrows up to a ridge, in some places only a few 
feet wide. 

Seated on this elevated spot, you can see 
the blue waters of the Mediterranean stretching 
away to the eastward, while the wild waves 
of the Atlantic gleam in the sun rays of the 
west. 

The highest point is on the north side, facing 
Spain, where the Rock rises, a sheer cliff, cold and 
colourless and sharply peaked, to the height of 
1430 feet. 

When capped by a cloud from the east called a 
6 Levanter,' it wears an aspect of mysterious 
grandeur and weird beauty. 

Here are the famed ' galleries ' — three tiers of 
excavations, planted with cannon commanding the 
Isthmus. The arrangements look formidable ; 



GIBRALTAR. 31 

but the probability is, that if the guns had much 
practice, the honeycombed rock would suffer. 

These defences exemplify a bygone system of 
warfare : of the modern one examples may be 
found in the numberless batteries, with their 
ordnance of heavy calibre, that line the shore and 
stud the hillside on the west and south. 

On the western slope, on the flank as it were 
of a couchant animal, is situated the town, a 
crowded assemblage of buildings with steep 
6 ramps ' or alleys of steps, communicating with 
the upper portion of the place, and three tolerable 
streets running through it on the level. 

You land at the " Devil's tongue," and looking 
upwards, see a jumble of houses rising one above 
the other ; and a quaint old building — the remains 
of a Moorish castle — tops them all, yet seems still 
nestling under the cliff that rears itself so loftily in 
mid-air. 

On the quay stand mule carts awaiting the 
passengers' luggage, and jaunting cars for the 
passengers themselves ; but it is the strange, 
motley groups of human beings that swarm 
around, who are the chief interest. 



32 WORD-SKETCHES IN TEE SWEET SOUTH. 

Here strides a Moor — a wealthy one apparently, 
in flowing robes of the colour worn by a descen- 
dant of the Prophet, and a snowy turban wound 
round a head that is carried with manly erectness : 
and here are several poor Moors, bare-legged and 
slippered, and wearing their hooded grey or brown 
or white jelebeyah carelessly enough. 

Sailors, soldiers, native carters and porters jostle 
each other. Scarlet and blue uniforms abound, 
but are toned down by the brown tints that are 
the favourites in the dress of the Spanish men. 
The gentleman enfolds himself in a capacious, 
heavy cloth cloak, with which he resists the cold 
of winter and the heat of summer ; wears a wide 
sombrero on his head, and in his mouth carries the 
inevitable cigar of huge dimensions, or a paper 
cigarette : men of a lower grade cling to the 
national costume, a brown or green jacket, 
sometimes of velvet ; with trousers of the same, 
reaching below the knee, where they are left 
open, and the bright metal buttons that adorn 
them are proved to be, not for use, but ornament ; 
and round the waist is a broad crimson sash, which 
completes the picturesqueness of the attire. 



G IBB ALT Alt 33 

In addition to these figures that flit before the 
eye with scenic effect, are the Jews, whose dis- 
tinctive dress consists in a long loose garment 
girdled round the waist by a sash of bright hue, 
and disclosing white clothes underneath, and linen 
trousers. Stockings of snowy whiteness, and 
shoes blacked into brilliancy, seem also necessary 
adjuncts to the adorning of the sons of Israel; 
while a small black skull-cap is their only head- 
covering, and appears to be with them a distin- 
guishing mark. 

Such are a few of the strange forms that throng 
the landing-place at Gibraltar. Arrived on shore, 
you pass through the gate of the fortifications, 
and find yourself at once in the main street. 
It is shabby-looking, for the houses are flimsy 
erections, and the shops are ordinary " parlours " 
with one little window, behind the dusty panes 
of which a few articles for sale may be visible. 
No church towers rise on high, unless we except 
the small pepper-boxes of the Eoman Catholic 
and Presbyterian churches. The Protestant Ca- 
thedral (so-called) is like a long, flat, inverted 
box, and is externally destitute of all ornament, 



34 WORD-SKETCHES IN TEE SWEET SOUTH. 

or indication of its sacred use ; whilst it is adorned 
internally in the Moorish style. Divine Service 
is held in some of the schoolrooms. 

The public buildings are insignificant in cha- 
racter, and the town may fairly be pronounced 
uninteresting in appearance. 

Making your exit from it through another gate, 
you arrive at the Alameda. This is a parade 
ground and public promenade, and attached to 
it are extensive pleasure-grounds. 

Here, beneath the wide branches of the feathery 
pine, and between hedges of aloe and oleander, 
one may sit in the grateful shade, listening (in 
the summer heat) to the hissing chirp of the 
" chicharra," and gazing with delighted eyes 
on the rich sapphire blue of the bay, the ships 
on its smooth bosom, and the ever-varying tints 
on the undulating line of hills opposite, the hills 
of Andalusia. It is truly a pleasant lounging 
place, and Cupid's victims appreciate its friendly 
shelter, — lovers of all sorts being partial to 
sylvan scenery, excepting, perhaps, nursemaids 
and their military swains, who usually 
prefer the parade ground, where a band plays 



GIBRALTAR. 35 

twice a week, and where the drilling of a squad 
of raw recruits, or the inspection of a regiment, 
may afford them diversion. 

"Everybody" has, or is supposed to have, some 
sort of vehicle, generally a pony-phaeton, in which 
to drive to and from town, along the high-road 
which skirts the gardens ; thus these latter are 
little frequented, save by strangers unprovided 
with a carriage, to whom these bowery walks 
are a boon, and by the amorous couples afore- 
said. But soldiers in all their military stiffness, 
and sailors in their rollicking freedom, sometimes 
wander along the gravelled paths ; when their 
expressions of opinion on such-and-such a flower, 
to them unknown, or on the charms of a Spanish 
maiden as she passes, her mantilla leaving her 
face unshaded, her fan fluttering in her hand 
coquettishly, are oftentimes most amusing. 

Proceeding onwards by the carriage road, and 
turning a point, you reach the district called "The 
South ;" a region of cottages, chiefly officers' quar- 
ters, each embowered in pepper-trees, and en- 
circled by aloes, geranium-trees, and prickly pear. 

They are but mean-looking abodes, the generality 

d 2 



36 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

of them ; rather suggestive, with their thin 
walls and slight verandahs, of seaside lodgings 
in England, and as unsnited to the climate as it 
is possible for any buildings to be. The deluging 
storms of the rainy season should descend upon 
a well-built, water-tight house, on which they 
might expend their force in vain, and the blazing 
summer sun should encounter, as it does in Spain, 
the thickest of walls, and an internal arrangement 
of the dwelling, which gives shade and coolness 
within, how fiercely soever the sun's rays may 
burn without. 

Yet here, any lath and plaster contrivance is 
deemed sufficient for a human habitation ; and the 
result is, that the variations and extremes of 
temperature are felt much more severely than 
they would be if a more substantial style of 
building prevailed. 

The reason given for this singular and senseless 
state of things is, that all the land is Government 
property ; and leases are only granted condi- 
tionally, viz., that should the plot of ground be 
required by Government, the agreement is im- 
mediately cancelled, and the purchaser or lessee 



GIBRALTAR. 37 

has to yield up his claim to it without expecting 
the smallest compensation for his disappointment 
and loss. 

The property might possibly pertain to him 
and his heirs for ever, but he runs the chance 
of having it taken from him, and of seeing a 
building on which he had expended all his 
capital, levelled with the ground, to make way 
for new batteries or powder-magazines. 

Like the foolish man in the parable, he who 
builds in Gibraltar, does so on but a sandy 
foundation (financially) ; and this uncertain tenure 
it is, which deters persons who would otherwise 
do so, from spending any money in the place. 
There is no inducement for speculating, no in- 
centive to private enterprise ; and consequently 
" rock scorpions," as well as the officials, have to 
frizzle or freeze, as the case may be, in their 
cardboard tenements ; besides running the risk 
of being carried off in a gale of wind, house 
and all, like a snail, and dropped miles away 
down the Straits. 

But, although the tasteful Italian villa, or the 
picturesque cottage of Devon would be more in 



38 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

harmony with the scenery than these cockney 
shanties, still, embosomed as they are in orange 
and lemon trees, and surrounded with the loveliest 
flowers, some of them look cozy nooks in which 
to spend an enforced banishment. 

And what delicious peeps their inmates enjoy 
of the world without, through the boughs of the 
Bougainvillea, or other creeper that may wreathe 
the windows ! Framed in foliage, pictures are 
always there of marvellous beauty ; and, for any 
one interested in shipping, there is constant 
amusement in watching the graceful messengers 
of the deep as they flit by on their course or ride 
at anchor in the harbour. 

Grim ironclads may be there ; huge merchant 
steamers bound for the Antipodes and every part 
of the globe ; smaller ones, fussily ploughing 
their way; yachts and such craft daintily skim- 
ming like sea-birds the surface of the waves : it is 
a scene full of life and cheerfulness. 

But it is on reaching the heights of Buena 
Vista, above the southernmost point of land in 
Europe (called Europa Flats), or on ascending the 
Rock to the ruin known as O'Hara's Tower, that 



GIBRALTAR. 3 ( j 

the magnificence and grandeur of Nature at tins 
spot, where two continents stand face to face, are 
properly visible. 

The velvety-brown hills on the other side of the 
Bay, flecked with gleams of light, empurpled here 
and there with cloud-shadows, are a study ; but 
the African mountains opposite have a charm of 
their own. Bare, dark, and rugged, the nearer 
ones rise gloomily and cold from the water's edge ; 
but, as their long line stretches westward, tenderer 
and warmer becomes the colouring, till it melts 
into a sunny haze in which mountain, sea, and 
sky are blended. Away to the south is another 
range of even greater interest and beauty. This 
is a spur of the Atlas, only clearly distinguishable 
at times. Then, glittering in the sun, the snowy 
peaks of two giant mountains taller than their 
fellows reveal themselves very Alp-like ; while the 
round shoulders and grotesque forms of others, 
half-hidden in blue mist, wear an air of fascinating 
mystery. Ceuta, in the possession of the Spaniards 
— who make it a penal settlement — stands, with 
its castle, on a long tongue of land, and can be 
very plainly seen. 



40 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

The " Straits" merge into the Mediterranean 
Sea at Europa ; and far, far into the distance, 
the heavens seem mirrored in those ultramarine 
depths. 

Looking northwards from the summit of the 
Rock, or sufficiently round the point to obtain 
the view, more mountains, and of another appear- 
ance, are visible. These are the Sierra Bermeja, on 
the Granada coast. Yermilion or rose mountains, 
as their name implies, their granite cones stand 
sharply defined against the deeply- tinted northern 
sky ; their bare sides are seamed with lines which 
mark the course of torrents; snow lies on their 
summits, and in patches on their rocky slopes and 
in their purple hollows. They, and the Sierra 
Nevada beyond, look cold, inhospitable, unfeeling ; 
stern barriers as they are : — but the land they 
guard is one of corn, and wine, and oil. The sun 
loves it, and the winter snows melt into fertilizing 
rills to refresh the warm earth at the foot of those 
fastnesses of Nature. 

Is it not something to say for the old Rock that 
it commands some of the finest panoramic scenery 
in Europe, if not in the world ? and that within a 



GIBE ALTAR. 41 

few hours' journey are spots of historic and artistic 
interest so great that it is the ambition of most 
persons of any cultivation to visit those far-famed, 
time-hallowed sites ? Yet with' all these advan- 
tages of unequalled position and of surpassing 
natural beauty which Gibraltar possesses — more- 
over, with millions and millions of British gold 
sunk in her soil — there are yet found individuals 
who, from false sentiment and a mistaken idea of 
national obligation, would propose yielding up this 
southern jewel into hands that could no more 
retain it in their indolent grasp now than they did 
in past times. 



( 42 ) 



CHAPTER III. 

THE EOCK. 

Strangers touching at Gibraltar, with only a few 
hours to spare, usually make the ascent of the 
Rock on donkeys. If the visit should be in sum- 
mer-time, a warm performance this donkey-ride 
must be, and the hill itself looks to disadvantage. 
Vegetation is then burnt up; brown and yellow 
and ashen grey are the prevailing hues, and the 
arid appearance of everything is scarcely pleasing. 
But winter changes the aspect of Nature here 
very agreeably. At this time the green of the 
glacis is not the only verdure visible ; for though 
some trees, like the Bella Sombra and the cotton- 
tree, are shorn of their leaves in mid- winter, the 
ilex and pine do not change ; the almond puts 
forth its fair blossom when its neighbours are still 
in russet garb; and the orange and lemon- trees 



THE ROCK. 43 

retain their glossy foliage while the golden fruit 
hangs amongst it thickly. 

The Judas-tree is supposed to bloom in Holy 
Week. In spite of its unprepossessing name, its 
flower is effective and beautiful. 

As for flowers, which in January and February 
deck the gardens lavishly, their reign is short but 
brilliant. Those that appear at different seasons 
with us all come out together in this forcing 
climate, producing a result that is puzzling to 
English eyes. 

One sees mignonette, heliotrope, roses, arums, 
pinks, and lilies, flourish side by side with violets, 
hyacinths, anemones, and crocuses. Arums are 
grown in beds, like our lilies of the valley, on a 
gigantic scale. All the varieties of the lily tribe 
attain huge proportions and are of marvellous 
loveliness ; but their perfume is overpowering. 
Roses, on the contrary, are not so sweet as they 
are further north, and they are too large, — less 
refined-looking than ours, with the exception of 
the tea species, which is delicate. 

A white cactus, that grows freely over walls, is 
very handsome ; and the night-blowing cereus, 



44 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

with its delicious vanilla perfume, is elegance 
itself. 

Scarlet is the prevailing colour in the floral 
world here. The Barbadoes aloe, of which orna- 
mental borderings are formed, the pomegranate, 
geranium, the ibiscus, and a common red flag, 
monopolise attention by their flaunting gorgeous- 
ness, their vivid masses mimicking the martial 
blaze of a garrison town poetically. There is 
also a scarlet passion-flower ; this is of regal 
beauty. 

Choosing that rare treat in the south, a grey 
day, a ramble up the Rock for those who are 
tolerable walkers is very enjoyable. To reach the 
north peak is somewhat a laborious undertaking 
for ladies. I never tried it, but the central and 
southern points are easily attained. 

Making for either of these, you can start from 
the Lovers' Walk, and ascend by steep paths 
through the Old Man's Garden, and then strike 
into the regular footway. At first, the path is 
shaded by pines and ilex and bordered by aloes, 
with olive-trees and the classical acanthus ; but as 
you mount higher, keeping south, there are only 



THE ROCK. 45 

palmito-bushes and tufts of aromatic herbs, wild 
lavender, thyme, sage, and prickly wild asparagus 
growing on the hillside. 

Early in the year the golden-eyed narcissus, 
powerfully odoriferous, nods from every crag ; 
" Jews' pipes," wild crocuses, blue speedwell, and 
honeysuckle are to be found ; and round on the 
southern side, everlasting flowers, a creeper with 
white bells that wreathes itself gracefully round 
trees and brambles, and acres of a shrub with 
a large marigold flower, the brilliant yellow of 
which looks gay. Green roses, too, spring from 
fissures in the precipitous rocks and add their 
quota to these natural decorations. 

While alluding to the flora, some mention, per- 
haps, should be made of the fauna of the Rock. 
Rabbits and partridges seem the chief, and the 
latter must be rather numerous, judging by the 
number of coveys one puts up in the course 
of a walk. The bird is of large size and fine 
plumage, but it gratifies the eye more than it does 
the palate, for it is inferior eating compared with 
our plain home friend. One winter a pair of 
eagles built their nest and reared their young on 



% 



46 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

an inaccessible part of the cliff, and a few apes 
still linger in this extremity of Tarshish. 

Upon an occasion, when rather chilly winds 
prevailed which drove them from their haunts 
on the eastern side to the shelter and sunshine 
of the other, an opportunity occurred for our 
seeing them ; a most rare thing, as inhabitants of 
Gibraltar say it is possible to live there for twenty 
years without getting a sight of these animals. 

We were on the northern side, watching the 
troops going through their evolutions on the 
isthmus below, when several monkeys, novel 
spectators, appeared on the scene. Wholly 
regardless of the knots of people scattered about, 
they came and perched themselves upon a jutting 
rock close by us, seemingly quite at their ease. 

Other persons counted seven, but I could only 
certify to four. There was a mamma, about four 
feet high, with a baby ; and comical it was to see 
the way in which she handled and dandled it, and 
when tired of the employment, jerked the little 
thing off a distance of some yards to find amuse- 
ment for itself. 

The firing going on at the Lines did not dis- 



THE BOCK. 47 

compose them in the least, but they looked on at 
the affair and at us, with gravity and indifference. 

From this same position, another day, we saw a 
sight rather unusual here, viz., a shark swimming 
along close in-shore on the Mediterranean side. 

A gentleman of our party, who had had West 
Indian experiences, recognized the monster 
instantly, and drew our attention to it. Its huge 
glittering surface, and every movement it made 
were clearly distinguishable in the shallow water, 
and we watched it for some time with great, and 
for a few moments, speaking of myself, I may say, 
painful interest, for two boats were making for 
the beach, and I trembled, though quite unneces- 
sarily, I believe, for their occupants ; but the 
creature kept on its course. The pace at which 
it went was tremendous. 

To return to our ramble. The paths that zigzag 
up the rock are excellent ; so good, that the ex- 
queen of Spain, during a visit she once paid to 
Gibraltar, drove up to the Signal Station, the 
central point, in a carriage drawn by eight mules. 
It takes six-and-thirty to drag up a gun ; and what 
dragging ! 



48 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

By-and-by, when you have turned the southern 
corner, you come upon the Jews' burial-ground, 
now disused. This quiet, sunny spot has a bend 
to the east, so that the graves face that dear land, 
far away, whose shores are yet laved by the bright 
blue waters we look down upon, albeit they may 
take another name ere they touch the coast of 
Palestine. 

Up we go, winding on, looking down on the 
Governor's cottage at Buropa, and noticing the 
contrast presented by the rich green of the vegeta- 
tion in this cool spot, with the various marine shades, 
and the glowing rose-hues of the Bermeja chain. 

We pause at the "Mediterranean battery," for 
it is worth while ; make a long pause on this 
ledge overhanging the deep sapphire sea so far 
beneath ; then mount up to Martin's Cave, and 
from thence scramble up the " Mediterranean 
stairs," rocky, rudely cut, and, to weary feet, 
never ending. 

Grood fun it is, that scrambling, especially on a 
rainy day, between slipping and laughing, " giving 
it up," and then rushing on with one more desperate 
effort, and the resolve not to be beaten. 



TEE ROCK. 49 

" Ah, the monkeys have been here !" we ex- 
claim, as we see the track strewed with pieces 
of frayed palm-bark. Yes ; they came for the 
monkey-dates, a spurious kind, small, and to the 
taste very bitter, that grow about here. 

We reach the summit at length, and are then 
fain to admit that we are rewarded for the 
exertion. 

Whichever way we look the scenery is magni- 
ficent, broad in its outlines, rich in its colouring, 
and finished in its detail. How describe those 
subtle, aerial effects that the Sierras exhibit, 
looking towards Spain ? Or the melting, tender, 
sunny sweetness of the Atlas range on the African 
continent ? Those pale giants look tremulous 
with heat, capped though they are with eternal 
snows. 

Between them and us flow the silvery straits ; 
yon gleam of light is the great Atlantic, the 
world's highway ; and at our feet is our harbour, 
specked with tiny dots, some of which represent 
merchant vessels of every nation, others are our 
monster ironclads. A human interest attaches to 
the scene, in addition to its unrivalled natural 

E 



50 WORD-SEETOHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

features, and far into the past the mind may 
roam while gazing on the fair surroundings of the 
fabled " Pillars of Hercules." 

The invigorating freshness too of the breeze 
on these heights, seems to supply one with a 
month's health ; and doubtless this occasional 
ascent of 1400 feet, is a good constitutional to such 
of the inhabitants and visitors as avail themselves 
of the opportunity it affords of getting a chestful 
of mountain air; but the Spanish part of the 
population as a rule, live and die in the place 
without ever once mounting the hill half-way. 
Exercise for health and enjoyment is not yet 
understood by them. 

As we descend on the western side, we pass 
" Michael's Cave," at a height of 1000 feet above 
the sea. Here, one lovely afternoon in May, when 
the Channel Squadron was in harbour, its officers 
gave us an entertainment; and very pleasant it 
was. 

They had the caves lighted up by torches, and 
those of the party who were inclined, descended 
as far as was practicable. 

You enter first a large, wide chamber in the 



THE ROCK. 51 

rock, and then follow a steep downward passage 
till you reach a small hole, through which you 
have to creep and squeeze like a mouse ; and as 
there is an ugly drop on the lower side, and every- 
thing around is slippery, damp, and slimy, it is 
rather awkward ; but plenty of cavaliers were in 
attendance, and between them all, crawling and 
sliding were made easy. Arrived at the further- 
most, or " Leonora " hall, our chief hosts were 
standing there to welcome us to their subterranean 
reception-room, the sight of which elicited from us 
warm expressions of admiration. 

It might have been a palace of gnomes or of 
fairies. 

The floor glistened with the fine particles of 
broken spar that strewed it thickly ; and from this 
rose pillars as of chiselled alabaster to support the 
roof with its snowy stalactites. 

In one spot, the lights had been so placed that 
they shone through thin, filmy pieces of spar and 
small apertures in the rock, in a manner which con- 
veyed the idea of its being an illuminated building. 

This portion, the jolly tars called " The Ca- 
thedral." 

e 2 



52 WOBD-SKETCUES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

Another passage remained to be explored, but it 
led nowhere, so it was said ; though there is a 
popular belief that a profound abyss exists some- 
where thereabouts, by which a communication is 
formed with the sea ; and I heard a strange story 
told of a presumed murder in connection with this 
supposition. 

The upward journey was rather less troublesome 
than the downward one ; and in due time and 
amidst much merriment, we all returned to the 
regions of day. 

A white dress and light kid gloves told tales 
of Mother Earth ; but as everyone also who had 
gone down, was in much the same pickle, 
" NHmporte" said I. 

At the cave's mouth, neat sailor-waiters were 
flitting about with kettles and cups, and tea was 
served to us with plum-cake accompaniment. 

Cake-making must be an important accomplish- 
ment on board a man-of-war, with so many dear 
little " youngsters " there to enjoy it ; and judging 
by the specimens we tasted during visits to several 
ships, the pastry-cooks seem fully to understand 
the importance of that branch of their business. 



THE ROCK. 53 

Besides the natural features of the Rock, and the 
artificial ones in the shape of fortifications, visible 
throughout its extent, which have a special interest, 
and the old Moorish Castle, dating from a.d. 725, 
there are the " Excavations," and these should be 
gone through in their full length to be rightly 
appreciated. 

They are in three tiers : the distance tunnelled is 
altogether between two and three miles ; the frequent 
and large embrasures admit a fair light into the 
broad galleries, where gun after gun stands ready 
for its deadly use ; and as you walk on and on, you 
are struck with the enormous labour spent on the 
gigantic work, in days when engineering difficulties 
were less easily disposed of than they are at the 
present time, and you are inclined to wonder why 
the ingenuity and energy forthcoming for warlike 
purposes did not reach further development in 
the arts of peace. 

Well, England " held her own " then, and sat 
a Queen amongst nations ! 

Now, instead of being a crowned Bellona, she 
is a fool's-capped Britannia, settlement ! 



( 54 ) 



CHAPTER IV. 

LIFE AT GIBRALTAR. 

" Rub-a-dub-dub," " Rat-a-plan-plan-plan," so the 
drums wake you in the morning ; or when the 
Fleet is in harbour, it may be "God save the 
Queen," striking up on board the flag-ship, that 
arouses you to mundane cares. But one ought to 
be up before that in summer, for the morning is 
the pleasantest time of the day. 

As early as five o'clock at that season, the bath- 
house is open, and the votaries of Hygieia are 
disporting themselves in the cool, clear sea ; 
though the popular hours for that diversion are 
those of the forenoon, when troops of officers' 
wives with their families make the " Bathing esta- 
blishment" a rendezvous ; for swimming and gossip 
can be enjoyed in combination, and marketings 
can be compared — it being rather the fashion for 



LIFE AT GIB R ALTAR. 55 

ladies to market in person ; and very much the 
poor Moors have to regret the fashion some- 
times. 

From noon to 5 p.m., quietude reigns in the 
town, the heat keeping most people indoors ; but 
towards the period when the sun's rays come 
slanting from the west, horses and pony carriages 
are in requisition, shopping and visiting are 
entered on con spirito, and the daily drive to the 
north front or Europa follows. 

The summer moonlight nights are glorious. 
Semi-tropical, softly luminous, richly scented, cool, 
parti-coloured — the tints of day mysteriously 
blending with the grey shades of darkness — they 
seem to offer a new phase of existence to the 
unaccustomed visitor from northern lands. Now 
the Spaniards pour forth from their houses to call 
on their friends and to take the air ; and the 
English follow their example so far as to have the 
regimental band that plays twice a week on the 
Alameda, perform there from 9 o'clock to 11 p.m. 
during the warm months. The inhabitants appre- 
ciate this arrangement ; but the place is badly 
lighted, and the affair lacks the air of al fresco 



56 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

enjoyment common to similar scenes in France 
and Germany, and even to the Dutchman's pretty 
wood at the Hague. 

Invitations to garden parties are also for the 
same hours ; these are, of course, enjoyable or not 
according to circumstances. 

The winter is naturally the gayest season in 
Gibraltar. The temperature is very much that of 
spring or autumn with us, though occasionally 
sharp cold is felt ; when a cutting north wind 
comes sweeping down from the snowy Sierras, 
keen and icy, piercing to the bones and marrow ; 
or a long spell of deluging rain, or the con- 
tinuance of a heavy Levanter or east wind, makes 
everything reeking, damp and mouldy. 

These, however, are, as a rule, unpleasant 
exceptions to the usual mild, soft nature of the 
climate, which may be pronounced exceedingly 
agreeable from October to May. Then it is that 
the active Briton can enjoy life somewhat more 
after his own fashion. 

Official dinners, balls, and private theatricals 
take place at "The Convent" (as the Governor's 
residence in the town is called, from the house 



LIFE AT GIBRALTAR. 57 

having formerly belonged to a religious order), 
and the regiments that occupy barracks which 
afford the requisite accommodation, also give 
entertainments. 

A dance in military circles, is much the same 
everywhere ; with notably courteous hosts, and 
presenting a gay, bright scene of red and blue 
uniforms, flags, flowers, feminine toilettes, and 
delirious whirling to such bewitching favourites 
as may match with " Blauen Donau," or 
" Abschied von Mtinchen." 

But one or two balls that are given by the 
Governor have further attraction still for the 
admirer of the picturesque. These are the occa- 
sions when full dress is de rigueur; when the 
consuls are more ornamented than usual, the sable 
gentleman who represents Morocco, appears in 
gorgeous array, and a good many Spanish officers 
are invited and attend in uniforms covered with 
gold lace. Most of the Spanish officers whom I 
met were very small men, surprisingly so, con- 
sidering that their countrymen are, as a rule, tall, 
besides being well proportioned. Is it, that in the 
higher circles that supply the upper ranks of the 



58 WORD-SKETCHES IN TEE SWEET SOUTH. 

service, physique is deteriorating ? and that in 
Spain as in Italy, the peasant and the bourgeois 
monopolize the bone and muscle, whatever may 
become of the " sangre azul ?" 

These militaires did not enter much into the 
pleasures of the dance, and some of them declined 
doing so, for the reason that " the English ladies 
went round so fast in the valse." Certainly the 
slow, laboured pace at which they themselves 
revolved would have been trying to the fair ones 
skimming like swallows about the room. 

At the supper table these gentlemen were 
evidently astonished at seeing such substantial 
provision made for restoring exhausted nature. 
Their remarks were most amusing ; for accustomed 
as they are to panales and cold water as the sole 
recruiting agents after Terpsichorean fatigue and 
excitement, the boars' heads, pheasants, and other 
dishes usual with us on such occasions, now spread 
before them, afforded a gratifying sight, novel as 
it might be to their eyes. 

In winter, ladies have a choice of natural flowers 
for wearing in their hair. 

A rather mysterious effect is produced some- 



LIFE AT GIB B ALTAR. 59 

times by the flower known as the " changeable 
rose.' ' * A girl enters the room, with white roses, 
pure and cold, as her adorning; in the second 
valse her partner notices that the fair things are 
blushing, and when he claims her for the last galop 
at 5 a.m., he sees they have become bright pink. 
She places them carefully in water on her return 
home, and in the course of the day lo and behold, 
their colour has deepened into red. 

Probably they now and then symbolize the 
wearer's feelings? at any rate they furnish a 
pretty simile for the growth of " la belle passion." 
The change they undergo is so rapid as to appear 
almost magical ; you can well-nigh see the flush 
intensifying as you watch the delicate petals. 

Apropos of evening amusements, it may be 
interesting to know how the majority of people 
are conveyed to and from them. 

Closed vehicles are very scarce, therefore not 
always obtainable; and if disappointed in this 
respect, you are obliged to climb into or on a car 
of excruciating construction, and then you must 
hold on for dear life, while the driver, impatient 

* Tree peony. 



GO WORD-SKETCHES IN TEE SWEET SOUTH. 

to set you down and fetch other people, dashes 
away as if the Wild Huntsman were pursuing. 

Suddenly, he pulls up with a jerk that may send 
the whole party flying ; he has been challenged 
by a sentry. 

" Officers' ladies," he cries, if there is no gentle- 
man ; (it would take too much time to specify 
relationships) : if you are accompanied, the glitter 
of the uniform is enough, and the " Jarvey," with 
energetic efforts again gets his horse up to the 
pace which alone is considered satisfactory, viz., 
full gallop. 

With the usual cool politeness of his countrymen, 
the man may perhaps explain why he is in such a 
hurry; and once when this occurred, he slightly 
electrified his " fare." " I must make haste/' he said 

in Spanish, " for I have to take" But never 

mind what he said, as he referred to one of the ladies 
whose names were being rather bandied about in 
the place just then, as aerial nothings to be treated 
shuttle-cock fashion. He used plain language. 

The scandals of the garrison are very edifying 
to the native population ; the strict etiquette of 
Spanish society precluding the possibility of much 



LIFE AT GIBB ALTAR. 61 

that might give rise to gossip ever taking place 
therein, or even an exhibition of those friendly 
familiarities common in English circles, which are 
occasionally misleading, even if the suspicions 
they may raise are groundless. As for the vulga- 
rities of " fast" persons, the bad taste of them excites 
the disgust and condemnation of these unsophis- 
ticated foreigners, and British ears would often 
tingle if all the remarks heard by them were 
understood. 

Of course here, as in small communities gene- 
rally, the " little great " are very great indeed ; 
there is a tendency to fall down and worship the 
official images set up, and sometimes there is vast 
assumption, where but a sorry foundation exists 
on which to raise a structure of arrogance. But 
these weaknesses are to be met with all the world 
over in one form or another. They are amusing 
to the cosmopolite, who can afford to smile at the 
vagaries of human nature ; and they do not 
interfere with his social enjoyment, for amongst 
the numerous gentlemen and gentlewomen who 
are resident temporarily or otherwise on the Rock, 
there is always plenty of good and agreeable 



62 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

society. Moreover, friendships based on con- 
geniality of taste or feeling are more valued here 
than at home, where, with a wider range of 
acquaintances, there is less concentration of 
interest in the choice few ; and the bond which 
unites individuals of the same country and class 
when they meet in a foreign land is also felt in a 
degree even at this station. 

Many and pleasant were the entertainments 
at which I was a guest during my sojourn at 
Gibraltar ; and to those given by the Governor, 
and the military balls, may be added the gaieties 
for which we were indebted to our naval friends 
of the Channel Squadron — hospitable receptions on 
board their ships, and a return-ball to the garrison, 
which far eclipsed the result of any effort 
made for their gratification, and was a brilliant 
success. 

Amusement is not confined to the gentry. The 
lower orders lead a merry life, especially such of 
them as are on the " visiting list " of the soldiers, 
for the dances the latter give exceed in number 
those of the officers, and they are conducted with 
as much form and ceremony. The Juanitas, 



LIFE AT GIBRALTAR. 63 

Manuelas, Rosalias, Doloreses, &c, who honour 
these gaieties with their presence, go chaperoned 
by a mother or female relative — generally a 
witch-like, prematurely old woman with a cotton 
handkerchief tied over her head. This attractive 
duenna accompanies her charge, remains to watch 
her proceedings, and sees her safely back to her 
master's house — presuming the girl to be a 
servant — then hobbles to her own home, to start 
in an hour or so on the laborious duties of her 
working day. 

Christmas is kept rather noisily. Young men 
and boys go about with guitars and tambourines 
making hideous discord. 

The instruments are usually ornamented with 
an orange or two, and a few leaves ; and boughs 
of this fruit and of lemons, supplied probably by 
the garden, form the house-decoration during the 
festive season. In the churches, garlands made of 
the leaf of the pepper-tree, with the scarlet flower 
of the Barbadoes aloe, and white roses and arums, 
are very effective as a substitute for holly. 

During the carnival there is some masquerading 
in the streets, and the Spaniards have bate masques 



64 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

at the theatre ; but there is not the general aban- 
donment to fan and frolic which distinguishes 
Italian cities at that time. 

Thus high and low, Britisher and Iberian, 
seem provided with amusements ; and to those 
already named must be added the hunting that 
there is in winter ; as a pack of foxhounds is 
kept by subscription, and the neighbouring 
country is scoured by the Nimrods of the gar- 
rison. 

It is rough work by all accounts : the goat-like 
scrambling and climbing over the rocky Sierras, 
would astonish some of our Squire Westerns, and 
their horses too. 

The short rides are somewhat circumscribed for 
ladies. The one, par excellence, is to the Cork 
Wood, fourteen miles distant, interesting in itself, 
and for the fine scenery passed through on the 
way thither ; but this expedition though often 
planned, was never effected by me ; nor, although 
on several occasions at Algeciras, did I ever go on 
to " The Falls," a pretty spot near. " Procrastina- 
tion in an affair which one fancies can be achieved 
at any time, too often leads to its being left 



LIFE AT GIBE ALT All 65 

undone entirely/ Said you not so ? — apropos 

of these very excursions ? 

The ordinary afternoon's ride is, to pass the 
lines, labour through some heavy sand, get a 
canter over the bit of tufty grass on Campo Green 
• — perhaps trot up the hill to San Roque and 
indulge in a glass of milk punch at Macrae's ; 
or follow the shore line : here, at one spot, 
some remains may yet be traced of the city of 
Carteia. 

A very considerable place it must have been, 
and with a history worth knowing attaching to 
it ; for this was the Phoenician Melech Kartha, or 
King's-town, the city of Hercules. Tartessus, too, 
they called it ; and it represented Western Tyre. 
But a farmhouse on the summit of a hill is all you 
see to mark the site, the stones of which it was 
built having been used in the erection of the 
neighbouring towns and villages. 

At low tide, riding along the beach is very 
delightful ; for you revel in a sense of freedom 
which you cannot do in the cramped area of the 
rock-bound promontory that looks so grand yet 
fair across the blue water of the Bay ; and there 

F 



G6 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

is moreover, elasticity in the air, a quality lacking 
on the Eock. The sole drawback to enjoyment 
arises from the numbers of Spanish peasants 
heavily laden, and with donkeys ditto, that you 
have to avoid riding over on the narrow strip of 
hard sand with its beds of seaweed, which is the 
only road ; and as these gentry — the human ones 
— are, it is averred, rather given to knocking them- 
selves down (to use a Paddyism), with a view to 
extorting damages from the careless rider, one 
has to rein in oftener than is agreeable. 

Little sand-martins haunt the shore, flitting 
about you most confidingly ; for at least a couple 
of miles one day, some of these birds kept 
wheeling and chattering round us and our horses 
as we galloped along. Ah, one has to gallop hard 
occasionally ; for the garrison gates are shut at 
sunset, and woe to the luckless wight who seeks 
admittance at those grim portals afterwards. The 
prospect of a night at the Spanish lines is scarcely 
pleasant, and the consequent scene of hurry- 
ing to get back before gun-fire is sometimes 
laughable. 

By-the-way, twice a year there are races at the 



LIFE AT GIBRALTAR. 67 

north front : not quite a reflection of Newmarket 
or Doncaster, but a sufficient excuse for luncheons 
and flirtation ; so that the Briton, if he cannot 
enjoy the reality, can yet have a fair semblance 
of his home pleasures in this southern land. 



( 68 ) 



CHAPTER V. 

TANGIER. 

It was cool, breezy March, that saw me sojourning 
for awhile at Tangier. 

Visible on a clear day from Gibraltar, it is 
reached in about four hours from thence, by the 
steamers that ply to and fro at stated but yet 
uncertain periods : uncertain for the reason, that 
should the advertised boat be suddenly required 
for towing a ship through the straits, her owners 
employ her for that more lucrative service 
in preference, and the disappointed public must 
wait. 

Amongst the passengers are usually many 
Moors, Barbary Jews; Spanish soldiers — small, 
sallow, tight-waisted, and loose-trousered; and 
market people in their picturesque attire, carrying 
their reed baskets full of comestibles with one 



TANGIER. 69 

hand, and perhaps a bunch of live fowls with the 
other. Or the said bunch may be thrown down 
on deck, or slung over the owner's shoulder, with 
equal unconcern, and in utter disregard of the 
clamour made by the poor birds, and their frantic 
efforts to regain their perpendicular. These 
objects will be seen as you look forward. 

But the after-part of the vessel may present 
scenes of interest in the family groups of Spaniards, 
married couples with their children, &c, and 
others of a respectable class sitting or standing 
about. You will notice the Senor papa, enveloped 
in the ample folds of his brown cloth capa — grave, 
thoughtful, and smoking his gigantic cigar in 
silence ; the Senora his wife, pale and plump, her 
raven locks exquisitely braided and plaited, and 
gleaming blue-black from beneath the lace velo of 
her mantilla ; and her fan doing duty, whether the 
day be warm or cold. Always graceful, generally 
gracious as well, there is something very pleasing 
about the Spanish woman, of whatever grade of 
life she may be. Native kindliness, and innate 
tact, supply the place of education amongst the 
lower orders in their social relations ; whilst in a 



70 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

higher sphere, natural dignity and amiability form 
a charming combination. They seem to be very 
affectionate parents, making companions of their 
little ones from an early age ; and to this fact may 
perhaps be attributed the wonderfully precocious 
manners possessed by some of these baby creatures. 
Even the very poorest people, make ' politeness ' 
the first lesson to be acquired by the infant mind. 

In illustration of this, a friend was relating one 
day a scene he had witnessed, which he described 
as infinitely amusing. It was a meeting between 
two tiny beggar children, both of them in rags, 
and begrimed with dirt. Wholly unconscious of 
observation, they met, bowed formally, like their 
betters, and then each proceeded to make parti- 
cular inquiries as to the health and well-being of 
the family to which the other belonged, and all 
was done with a seriousness and gravity that 
approached the comic. Yet it was perfectly 
natural, and every-day behaviour. 

But to resume our voyage. Dropping our 
Spanish passengers at Algeciras, we soon steamed 
out of the bay, rounded Cabrita Point, and rather 
huffsred the Andalusian shore till we reached 



TANGIER. 71 

Tarifa. This afforded us a good opportunity of 
seeing the coast scenery, — bold hills which seem 
to " dove-tail " one into the other, in different 
shades of warm grey and violet. Several spots 
have historical associations connected with them ; 
and all along the beach are Martello towers 
that remind one of the Kentish and Sussex sea- 
board. 

Here and there, the yellow, sandy foreground 
is varied with the brown-green of olive plan- 
tations, stretching inland, and the richer-hued 
orange groves. At Guadalmar, a romantic- 
looking spot, embosomed in purple mountains, 
yet open to the glowing sun, are grown the finest 
oranges in Europe. 

After touching at the ancient town of Tarifa, 
our steamer crossed over direct to Tangier ; and 
the swell of the Atlantic, here encountered in a 
chopping sea, was far from agreeable. 

Tangier lies on the western side of its bay, and 
on a slope. Its snow-white battlemented walls 
surround the town completely : they grin at you 
along the water's edge, mount the hill, and run 
along its summit — encircling in their inclosure 



72 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

the steep, narrow lanes, the almost windowless 
houses, the mosques and minarets, and palm-trees 
— all those features of an Eastern city. There they 
lie on the hillside for your contemplation ; with 
green undulating land before you, and " Afric's 
golden sands " rolling down to kiss the sea at 
your feet. 

Up through the gullies, and away far inland 
amid broken rising ground, you can see those 
yellow tracts — dotted here and there with lines of 
black specks — trains of camels or of asses heavily 
laden, going with merchandise into the interior. 

It stands before you like a picture, and you feel 
inclined to gaze and moralise ; but you are roused 
from a coming reverie by finding the steamer has 
stopped a long way from shore — for the harbour 
is shallow and rocky, and there is no pier : boats 
surround the vessel, and a shrieking crowd of 
bare-legged, bare-breasted Moors, and ebon-faced 
sons of Etliiop, are seizing your luggage and you, 
and getting you transferred to boats. This is 
accomplished, and the lusty crew pull away 
through the heavy surf, towards a point on the 
beach where there is a small crowd congregated. 



TAN01EE. 73 

But ere we reach it we are again surrounded. 
This time it is half-naked, screeching creatures 
brandishing chairs, and vociferating wildly, who 
take possession of one. Almost before you are 
aware, you are hoisted up in the air between two 
of these noisy beings, and are being carried 
through the waves. They set me down very 
gently — I must say that for them ; and then half- 
bewildered, 1 returned the gaze of curiosity of the 
crowd gathered around. 

What piercing black eyes looked out from the 
men's flannel cowls ! What soft ones from the shadow 
of the women's veils ! A huge negro, black as Erebus, 

but smiling as the light, recognised Mr. , 

who introduced us to his sable friend, as to an 
official who could do us service ; and after a hand- 
shaking, this dark gentleman in the big turban 
and cream-coloured robes passed us pleasantly 
through the custom-house ordeal, and we pro- 
ceeded, with an escort of rabble, to Martin's hotel. 
On the way, our cortege was swelled by a tribe 
of Jew lads, who probably, as it was their Sab- 
bath, were enjoying a holiday. Their intense 
gratification knew no bounds at the advent of 



74 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

strangers. Freely passing their remarks upon us, 
which, perhaps luckily, we did not understand, they 
clapped their hands, grinned, shouted frantically, 
flourished sticks, and executed various pas in 
our pathway, which it is to be supposed ex- 
pressed the exuberance of their pleasure. At 
any rate, the young monkeys proved that the 
genus gamin is not confined to Europe. Their 
elders meanwhile, in their clean white linen, dark 
tunics, and skull caps, looked on with that quiet 
air which they all have. 

The Jews of Barbary appear a small race of 
men — short, slight, weakly, — in fact, degenerate ; 
and they form a striking contrast to the Moor, 
who, in fine physique and manly bearing, is a 
model. 

It is said that the reason why a sickly or mis- 
shapen Moor is rarely if ever seen, is, that the 
rough training to which they are subjected in 
childhood while hardening the constitutions that 
are naturally robust, is fatal to the delicate ones. 
Hence, through truly Spartan management, 
strength and health are the rule amongst them. 
The middle-aged men sometimes become ' pudding- 



TANGIEB. 75 

faced,' and look animal ; but generally as age 
advances, the features elongate, the dignified 
reserve of expression increases — though the keen 
eye still preserves its fire — and a ' magnificent 
head ' is the result. You may fancy the patriarchs 
of old to have stepped from their graves as you 
encounter their noble forms and faces — simple yet 
grand ; such as are seen now-a-days only in ideal 
representations of those primitive fathers. 

As for the women, those whose faces I contrived 
to see, were soft-looking and placid rather than 
pretty, and though possessed of fine eyes, the latter 
failed to charm one, from their utter want of ex- 
pression. 

Some of the children are attractive. Baby girls 
have to keep their chubby cheeks veiled, (what a 
bore it must be to them !) and little boys strut 
about in the long jelebeyah, and look singularly 
comic when the hood is over the head and the 
point of it sticking up in the air. 

The Jewish women carry off the palm of beauty ; 
and those people who are only familiar with the 
type which they see in Northern Europe, can form 
no idea of the very different style of loveliness 



76 WORD-SKETCHES IN TEE SWEET SOUTH. 

which is the portion of these daughters of Israel in 
Morocco, — for one is as unlike the other as possible : 
but of them, more anon. 

As we struggle up through the stony narrow 
lanes we have to " look alive " lest we should be 
knocked down by the numerous donkeys we meet, 
with their great panniers projecting so far on 
either side as almost to fill up the passage, and we 
also encounter a large party of sportsmen just 
returning from an unsuccessful boar-hunting expe- 
dition. They are furnished with long spears, and 
look rather warlike thus accoutred for the chase. 
Sometimes the sport is very exciting, and the 
officers from Gibraltar often cross over to Barbary 
to enjoy this amusement, as well as the shooting 
which the neighbourhood affords. 

We found Martin's Hotel a comfortable house, 
fitted up in the English style. The public drawing- 
room might have been an apartment in any of our 
coast towns, and it was difficult to realise its not 
being so, as, amid the unwonted luxury of carpets 
and curtains, we sat looking out upon the stormy 
sea, swept by the rough March wind. 

The salle-a-manger did not take our fancy ; it 



TANGIER. 77 

looked dark and gloomy in the chilly weather, and 
in the dim lamplight the waiters, in their long 
white garments, were suggestive of ghosts. But 
the table d'hote dinner was good (the cook an 
Italian), and amongst the twenty guests who sat 
down together were some who were entertaining. 
An American did a good deal of tall talk in en- 
larging upon the greatness of his country, and 
informed us that he was travelling with the inten- 
tion of giving his opinions to the world afterwards 
in the shape of a book. He did not guess there 
was another " chiel amang us takin' notes," but 
unburdened himself of his ideas very freely. Fresh 
from the young Western States, these were in- 
teresting to hear, and as his conversation abounded 
in racy humour this gentleman made an amusing 
vis-a-vis. 

After dinner, a native musician came and played 
in the entry. He was a large, swarthy negro, en- 
veloped in ample white robes, and his instrument 
was a sort of mandoline of two strings. Poor as the 
resources at his command were, he really produced 
a surprising effect ; while the droning, monotonous 
chant of his rich bass voice was positively bearable 



78 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

for a time. During his performance the waiters 
and guides stood round, making a picturesque 
group. One was a young Jew, whose dress was 
a grey tunic and red sash ; another was a Moor, 
with a close-fitting white suit, a crimson bag slung 
across his shoulder, and full white drawers reaching 
to the knee, bare legs below ; while towering above 
a knot of other " guides " or " interpreters," in 
their woollen garments, was our allotted attendant, 
Mahomed Ben Hadji (or son of a Hadji, or Mecca 
pilgrim), a tall, fine man, wearing just then the 
costume in which he assisted at waiting at table, 
viz., a long robe of shining white linen, bearing a 
startling resemblance to a night-shirt. Dancing 
was asked for by some of the audience, and a 
waiter came forward and executed a pas seul to 
the drowsy tone of the singer and the twang- 
ing accompaniment. Probably the dancer gave 
us a national definition of the poetry of motion, 
but he did nothing more than shiver and shake 
himself rather ungracefully and uncomfortably. 

Mahomed having been told off to us, was at our 
disposition at all times, and usually sat in the 
entry or lounged in the patio, awaiting a summons. 



TANGIER. 79 

English, French, Spanish, and Arabic were at his 
tongue's end ; and being very intelligent, and of 
good manners and temper, he was unexceptionable 
for his post, and we esteemed ourselves fortunate 
in having his services secured to us. The first 
walk we took was immediately upon our arrival, 
when we obtained a general idea of the town 
previous to seeing it in detail. 

Of course everyone knows its history, and. the 
special interest which it has for Englishmen from 
the fact of its having once been a British pos- 
session. It came to us as part of the dowry of 
Catherine of Braganza, wife of Charles II., and 
was given up by us in 1 684. It now belongs to 
Morocco, is under the rule of the Emperor, and a 
local Governor or Bashaw resides in the alcazar 
or castle. 

Considering how near the place is to Europe, 
and how much it is resorted to not only for pur- 
poses of commerce but for health and from 
curiosity, it is wonderful that it should retain 
the peculiarities of an Eastern town so strongly 
marked. Yet so it is, and its Oriental character 
is better preserved than in other places like Algiers 



80 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

and Cairo, which have been more exposed to 
European influences. 

When we first sallied forth for our walk we 
were so pressed upon and followed by the inqui- 
sitive and unsavoury crowd of idlers in the narrow 
alleys of the town, that Mahomed had to return 
for his stick, which he had forgotten. Then, 
armed with this stout weapon, he marched on in 
front, and bestowing blows and pushes right and 
left — blows for the donkeys and contumacious 
urchins, pushes for the old hags that begged, 
and the younger women that stopped the way — we 
managed to get on. The streets are pitched with 
such rough stones that the ankles get twisted 
cruelly in walking fast, and our tall guide's stride 
was difficult to keep up with. The principal street 
has shops on each side like open stalls, and in 
some of them you can see the articles which are 
sold there, being manufactured. Thus, the whole 
process of embroidering and making up the hand- 
some slippers, cushion-covers, &c, known as 
Moorish, goes on under your eyes at one stall ; at 
another, you may observe the dexterity with which 
the reed baskets and mats are made. Stopping at the 



TANGIER. 81 

next open window, you can see a tailor stitching 
away upon gay-coloured clothes, for feminine as 
well as masculine attire ; for upon one occasion of 
our passing a shop of this description Mahommed, 
begging us to wait a moment, entered it, and 
appeared to be giving directions of an important 
nature. When he came out again he coolly ex- 
plained, " They sent my wife a new dress home, 
and it doesn't fit round the neck ; so I had to tell 
them about having it altered." 

But perhaps the most interesting of the shops 
are those of the letter- writers. They are very 
neat, with their scrolls and parchments placed in 
order on the shelves ; and the writer himself, 
generally a venerable, intelligent-looking old man, 
with a long grey beard, and with spectacles on 
nose, sits there, writing to the dictation of a client. 
Then there is a great deal of pottery for sale, 
both at shops and spread out in the open street, 
It is excessively coarse, but, the patterns being all 
arabesque, the colours blend well, and the distant 
effect is good ; the shapes, too, especially of some 
of the jars, are graceful. Jewelry and shawls, or 
rather yaks, may be purchased at several places ; 

G 



82 WOBD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

but the latter are Algerian, and the former is all 
supposed to come from Birmingham — the enamel 
and inlaid ornaments that one purchases so cheaply 
in the Rue de Rivoli or in Regent Street. Rare 
stones and curiously-wrought ornaments may occa- 
sionally, they say, be met with, but we saw none. 

The smaller streets, if such they can be called, 
are mere alleys between white walls, with here 
and there a low door, which may be the entrance 
to a comfortable and superior tenement, though 
there is nothing to indicate this in its exterior. 
The Belgian consul kindly allows his house to be 
shown to visitors : so, taking advantage of the 
privilege, we went over it under Mahommed's 
guidance. It is a perfect bijou of Moorish archi- 
tecture and decoration ; small, but exquisitely 
finished. The arrangement is the same as in all 
houses here and in southern Spain, viz., a 
" patio " in the centre, paved with encaustic tiles, 
and supplied with a fountain, and light galleries 
running round it, into which the different apart- 
ments open. It seemed to be quite a museum of 
African curiosities, and looked, what it was, a 
bachelor's " fancy." The drawing-room, how- 



TANGIER. 83 

ever, was furnished in the European style, and 
contained several pictures of small size, but of 
merit, of the Flemish school. The young Moor, 
" Hamet," who admitted us, might have walked 
out of the "Arabian Nights," with his round, 
placid face, his white, loose robe, and profound 
salaam. 

Indeed, one could almost imagine oneself to 
be transported into that quaint dreamland whilst 
wandering about for the first time amongst scenes 
so thoroughly Eastern. But it is the people, 
rather than the buildings, that excite the chief 
interest. Every group you see forms a picture ; 
every individual in it a study, except in the case 
of the women. These shuffle along awkwardly, 
with their slippered feet, their figures so concealed 
by the yah in which they are muffled that it is 
impossible to tell whether they are well-formed or 
not, and they leave no features of the face visible 
save the eyes, and generally only one of these can 
be seen. It was amusing sometimes, when we 
turned a corner suddenly, and came upon a woman 
whose veil had dropped, to notice the hasty way 
in which, at sight of Mahommed, she pulled her 

G 2 



84 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

often ragged wrap over her face. Old toothless 
grandames and little girls were just as fearful of 
being seen as the young women. 

The children gaze at you with shy amazement. 
My admiration for one of the latter led to an 
unexpected result. Its bright little .Arab face, 
with its brilliant eyes, and rows of pearly teeth, 
and its setting of crisp black curls, attracted me ; 
and stepping towards the brown mite, I was going 
to caress it, when an elder brother, who was doing 
nurse and guardian, advanced with a menacing 
air, muttered something angrily, and shook his 
stick at me ! 

Naturally surprised, I turned to Mahommed for 
an explanation. He informed me with a smile 
that the boy thought I was going to steal the 
child ! 

Hear it, ye chicks at home — what these blacka- 
moors are saying of your auntie ! 

But perhaps the strangest-looking of all the 
many strange forms that are to be encountered 
in the place, are the wild, untamed Eiffs. They 
are a rude, lawless race, who inhabit the rocky 
northern coast of Barbary, neither submitting to 



TANGIEB. 85 

nor acknowledging the rule of the sultan of 
Morocco. They are dreaded pirates ; and as they 
have been known to carry off ships' crews who 
have been wrecked on their inhospitable shores, 
seamen generally give the latter a wide berth, and 
rarely attempt a landing. They look dirty and 
unkempt, and are easily distinguished by their 
peculiarity of having their heads close shaven, 
with the exception of one solitary lock at the side. 
This, as it is never cut, often grows very long, 
and it is plaited, and tied at the end with ribbon. 

According to their belief, Mohammed will, by 
this precious lock, draw them up to heaven ! 

The Mohammedans here are fanatical, and it is 
difficult, if not impossible, to gain entrance to any 
of the mosques. But I peeped into one as we 
passed the open door, and saw that the building 
was lofty, and the upper portion of the walls — all 
I could see (for a screen placed inside the door 
jealously concealed the lower part from view) was 
white as snow. Floods of light poured in from 
the sunny skies, and no " mysterious gloom " or 
iC dim religious light " reigned there. Scru- 
pulously clean, and severely simple, the temple 



86 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

seemed suited to the primitive creed, " Allah il 
Allah." The minarets are most elaborate in 
decoration, and remind one of Bombay inlaid 
work, the patterns being as finished, and the 
colours as delicate and harmonious. The per- 
vading tone of the minarets of the principal 
mosque is a silvery green, and those belonging to 
another are of a reddish hue relieved with white. 
Close beside each edifice grows a tall, spreading 
palm. 

The Alcazar stands on high ground, and com- 
mands the town. After climbing the ill-paved 
path which leads to it, we were glad to follow the 
example of sundry Moors, and seat ourselves on 
the stone seats by the gateway, while we surveyed 
the scene before us. From our elevation we 
looked down into the winding alleys, and on the 
flat roofs, where housewives might be seen carry- 
ing on their domestic avocations, or sitting quietly 
with their children ; and beyond all this the fertile 
country — fold upon fold of verdure — the restless 
bay, the shifting sands ; and, far away in the 
dreamy distance, cloudlike mountains tenderly 
melting into the pale blue ether. Whilst gazing 



TANGIER. 87 

around us we observed a tall, intelligent-looking 
man of dignified deportment pass by, and were 
told by our guide that it was the official who 
stood next in rank to the Bashaw. We turned in 
at the gate, and found ourselves in the Alcazar. 
Anything more drearily uncomfortable than these 
" palace" precincts looked, could hardly be found 
in similar localities. Blank walls and grass-grown 
open spaces, seemed the chief features of this 
extensive inclosure. The stables presented the 
most habitable appearance ; but perhaps the 
interior of some of the abodes might have been 
a pleasing surprise to us. Not so, however, was 
one to which our attention was called, with its 
inmates visible — if we chose to look through the 
grating into the gloom — a prison. The stables 
I would have liked to visit ; for some lovely 
Arabs and a Barb picketed outside made me long 
to see more of their fraternity ; but we had not 
thought of obtaining permission for this. 

Whilst descending towards the town on our 
homeward way we heard a barbarous din, and 
could distinguish a kind of procession passing 
through the streets. It was a Moorish wedding, 



88 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

the bride being taken to her future residence shut 
up in a box ; but the parties were of the lower 
orders, and there was nothing beyond this box and 
a noisy crowd to be seen. 

Excitement in another direction, with firing, 
was caused by a number of persons on their way 
to a " saint's " house. " They are taking him 
a present," explained Mahommed. Possibly the 
" saint " was only a poor idiot, whose witless 
ravings were regarded in the light of inspired 
utterances ; for the imbecile is here considered 
a holy person : or else the people were offering 
a " testimonial " in recognition of the superior 
sanctity of some miserably filthy creature, whose 
extra griminess was his chief virtue ; for, strange 
to say of these Mussulmans with whom " cleanli- 
ness is next to godliness" as a rule, and whose 
frequent ablutions form a part of their religion, 
they have, on going on pilgrimage, to abstain 
from these washings ; nor are they permitted to 
change their clothing. The state in which the 
pilgrims return, after perhaps an absence of several 
months, may therefore be imagined. So bad is it, 
that on the arrival of a caravan at Tangier, it is 



TANGIEB. 89 

usual to camp out the people outside the walls ; 
they are not received into the town. This is a 
preventive measure ; as hard fare, exposure, and 
dirt, naturally produce sickness among the tra- 
velling multitude. 

Mahommed told us that he purposed going to 
Mecca next year : he would be eight months about 
it, and he should take his wife. 

" How many wives have you, Mahommed ?" 
" Only one," was the answer. " A great many 
men have only one wife each." 



( 90 ) 



CHAPTER VI. 

TANGtlEK— continued. 

After breakfast on the following morning we 
visited the Soco, or market, which is held twice 
a week on a piece of open ground outside the 
upper gate, Bab-el-sok, and is one of the sights of 
the place. 

The crowd was so great of men, women, and 
children, horses, mules, and asses, that it was 
a difficult matter to press through the throng, and 
it would have been impossible but for the ener- 
getic exertions of our guide. The people were 
none of them rude, only their inquisitiveness was 
troublesome ; for, instead of making way, they 
mobbed and followed us to gaze at the strange 
ladies and their strange attire — not surpris- 
ing, when it is remembered that many of 
the people had come long distances from the 



TANG IE II 91 

interior, and had rarely, if ever, seen European 
women. 

Fruit and vegetables lay in heaps on the 
ground, and live poultry struggled everywhere. 
There was bread for sale, and it looked rather 
niue — like the batch-cakes made in English 
country homes ; and there were sellers of kibobs — 
things which looked anything but nice ; and 
various messes of sweets were also to be had. 
But what was most interesting in this assemblage 
of old-world objects was the Arab tent, made 
of coarse camel's-hair or goat's-kair cloth. Several 
of these veritable " tents of Kedar," small and 
black, were pitched under shelter of the walls, as 
well as in the open ; and here* and there a sort 
of tente d'abri, consisting of a few poles with 
a cloth thrown across them, formed a family 
residence of a temporary kind. Presently we 
came upon a serpent-charmer, and stopped to 
watch his performances. He began by pushing 
the crowd back until he had formed a circle ; and 
then, while another man beat a small drum, or 
"tom-tom," and he himself kept up a wild song 
or incantation, he proceeded to draw some snakes 



92 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

out of a bag, and to pull them about in an 
unpleasantly familiar manner. 

The man was a half-crazy looking fellow, with a 
lot of long elf-locks dangling over his face, or 
hanging in disorder round his head, as he threw 
himself into strange contortions and appeared like 
one " possessed." 

The snakes, about five or six feet long, to the 
number of seven, were soon wriggling along the 
ground ; and after affecting to attract them by his 
horrible noises and frantic gestures, he seized them 
each by the tail, and holding them all together, 
allowed their heads to approach his. Some of them 
fastened themselves on his nose, others on his lip — 
and he suffered them to hang on for awhile, though 
proofs were not wanting that they were biting him. 
Of course, they were either harmless, or their 
venom had been extracted ; and this knowledge 
only made the affair seem the more stupid, as it 
lacked even the unhealthy excitement which the 
presence of danger might have awakened. 

The charlatan then pretended to produce fire 
from a bundle of dirty straw ; and the ignorant 
spectators, who were not in the " match " secret, 



TANGIER. 93 

seemed much impressed with this wonderful 
feat. 

After the serpents and the fire were done with, 
the man had a ligature tied round the upper part 
of his left arm ; and before we had any idea of 
what he was going to do, he had inflicted four or 
five deep gashes on the fleshy part below the 
elbow, and the blood was streaming freely. 

Disgusted at the revolting exhibition, we 
turned hastily away — just as the creature was 
stripping himself to the waist, preparatory to per- 
forming other savage tricks. 

Another day, he came to Martin's Hotel, and 
showed off his tame snakes in the patio, whilst 
three turbaned assistants squatted on the stones, 
and made a hideous noise with their musical instru- 
ments. Anything more barbarous than the whole 
thing it would be difficult to find so close upon the 
borders of civilization. 

From the Soco we repaired to the wheat-market, 
to see the camels ere they started on their home- 
ward way under fresh burdens. A few were fine 
animals, but many were changing their coats, and 
looked out of condition as well. As for the 



94 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

wretched horses and donkeys that came in laden 
with country produce for the Soco, the gaping 
wounds on many of them, the sore backs and 
sore feet, gave them a pitiable appearance, sur- 
passing far that of the costermonger's much- 
enduring brute in England. 

Still, the animals form part of an Arab or a 
Moorish family, and are as well cared for as the 
other members- — only, like them, they have to 
rough it. 

You rarely see sticks used for correction, but the 
goad is not spared. When you hire a donkey for 
riding, a small piece of wood, with a sharp iron 
spike at the end, and attached to a piece of string, 
is put into your hand — if you will have it ; but we 
fancy that giving those vicious digs would not be 
to any lady's taste. 

After the magnificent Spanish asses, those in 
Morocco look very small ; and there is a breed in 
Barbary that is exceedingly diminutive. 

These latter are pretty little creatures, and, being 
very strong, make good mounts for youn^ children. 

There is no English place of worship at Tangier, 
but when a clergyman happens to be in the town, 



TANGIER. 95 

divine service is held at the British legation. This 
chanced to be the case during our visit ; so at the 
appointed hour, eleven, we repaired to Sir John 
Hay's, and found about twenty persons assembled 
in the dining-room, t where benches had been 
placed, and temporary arrangements made for the 
gathering. 

A wonderful quietude reigned : the room was 
shaded by large pepper-trees in the courtyard, 
that cast their dancing shadows on the white walls 
opposite ; and through the branches of the trees 
the sunbeams filtered, to glance upon the bright 
blue and gold-green plumage of a peacock, that, 
with his mate, came to contemplate the scene 
through one of the windows. 

The service, and holy communion that followed, 
must have been to some there like refreshment in 
the wilderness, and to the passing traveller it was 
solemn and soothing. Under its influence, too, the 
hope grew stronger, that one clay the waning 
Crescent may fade altogether before the glorified 
Cross, and that all the dark places of the earth may 
be illumined by the Light of the World. But the 
time seems, as yet, remote. 



96 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

In our walks we encountered more than once, 
a party of Spanish priests, and found, on inquiry, 
that the Eoman Catholics have a Mission in the 
place. Judging from our informant's manner, they 
do not make many converts amongst a people who 
look with horror upon image-worship, and cannot 
see the distinction between an idol of plain wood 
or stone, and one dressed in gorgeous raiment. 

The variety of sects amongst Protestants is also 
equally puzzling to them. That " unity in diver- 
sity, and diversity in unity," which gives scope for 
expansion of thought, and admits of different 
classes of minds, showing their reception of the 
same truth in diverse ways, cannot be understood 
or appreciated, save under certain conditions of 
mental culture. The one-idea'd Mahommedan does 
not puzzle his brain with polemics, but accepts his 
simple theological system, and the gross materialism 
which it permits, without troubling himself to dis- 
cuss the matter. 

He is content : and the follower of Islam 
makes a bad subject for proselytism. But even 
from him Christians may learn something. 
His personal cleanliness would shame them 



TANGIER. 97 

too often ; and the regularity of his prayers is a 
recognition of religious obligation which is instruc- 
tive. 

The windows of our room looked upon some 
tanks, where, the whole day long, Moors and 
others were performing their ablutions. This was 
done with the utmost decorum ; and many were 
the picturesque figures that came to scrub and 
scrape their faces, hands, and feet on the brink of 
the little ponds, and to finish up at the sparkling 
stream in the corner of the upper tank. 

Not content with washing themselves, some of 
them soused their baskets, and cleansed their 
clothes and slippers ; and one man, whose burden 
was fish, purified that also, along with the rest of 
his belongings, by immersion in the public bath. 
A young negro, who occasionally came with a 
pitcher to fetch water, was a perfect picture — 
dressed in his short skirt, or kilt, of striped gold 
colour and emerald green, his scarlet head-dress, 
and white vest. His neck, arms, and legs— black 
as ebony — were bare ; his frame looked powerful 
as that of an athlete ; and the easy grace with 
which he lifted his pitcher to his shoulder, and 



98 WOBD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

strode away with it when filled, showed that un- 
drilled nature may be graceful. 

Sometimes a Mussulman spread his square of 
carpet, and kneeling down upon it with his face 
towards Mecca, would remain for awhile engaged 
in his devotions, quite undisturbed by anything 
going on around ; while very often a hooded 
figure might be seen seated by the roadside, read- 
ing from the Koran. 

It was at all hours a busy scene to look upon, 
and the hotel being close to the lower gate — 
" Bab-el-Marsa " — nothing passed in or out of the 
latter without being visible from our windows. 

No women ever came to the tanks, and the Jews 
have a separate spot for their own use, in the 
centre of the town. 

But of all the Mahommedan customs, perhaps 
the most striking is the unique, impressive one, of 
calling from the minarets in the dead of night. 

Lying awake, I heard the cry, " Allah il Allah ! " 
breaking the deep stillness. The voice was high 
in the air, and it sounded weird and strange — un- 
earthly. But there it was, clear enough ; and the 
effect of hearing these peculiar tones was inex- 



TANGIER. ' 99 

pressibly solemn. Twice or thrice during the 
night the cry goes forth. Christians, perhaps, 
would often be benefited by such a reminder. 

On Sunday afternoon we took a quiet walk into 
the country with Mahommed, and sat for awhile in 
a garden belonging to the landlord of our hotel, 
enjoying the lovely views and sweet fresh air. 
The road thither was partly across a bit of breezy 
common, and along narrow lanes bordered with 
bamboo fencing and sugar-canes. On the way we 
passed the suburban residences of the Swedish and 
Belgian consuls, and were allowed to walk through 
the grounds of the latter, whose town-house we 
had previously seen. 

The villa itself is Cockney-Moorish, and the 
gardens, without turf, or gravel, or bordering, 
looked wild and untidy to English eyes. But 
some of the shrubs were strangers, and therefore 
attracted our notice. 

The following day was chiefly spent in the occu- 
pation which is presumed to be so particularly 
delightful to ladies — viz., shopping ; and under 
Mahommed's guidance we were taken first to see 
an embroideress — a Jewess. Her house was built 

h 2 



100 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

on the same plan as all the others, and seemed very 
dirty and uncomfortable, and crowded with young 
women and girls ■ — some mere children — all of 
whom were stitching away, seated on low chairs in 
the gallery on the first floor, that ran round the 
house and encircled the patio. The proprietress 
took our orders in her bedroom — a neat little 
apartment with a French bedstead in it, polished 
floor, and pretty curtains. The specimens of 
embroidery shown us were on muslin, the work 
very like Swiss, and quite as effective. 

The tableaux presented by these workers were 
full of colour. The stairs were red ; the walls 
white; the gallery railing green. The dresses of 
the girls were of all hues, but much softened by 
white ; and as they sat in their different attitudes, 
a painter would have found many a study. 

The Jewesses of Barbary are very lovely, but 
with a beauty so totally different to that of their 
Northern sisters, that it need be described. In the 
first place, they have complexions of lily-fairness, 
on which the rose alternately glows and fades; 
the nose is straight — almost pure Greek; the 
mouth ripe and tender, and the whole contour of 



TANGIEB. 101 

the face pleasing : but the eyes are the most beau- 
tiful feature — large and soft, fringed with long, 
dark lashes, and gentle and kindly in expression — 
nothing can be imagined more winning amongst 
women's wiles than one of their glances. 

And not only are the young girls attractive, the 
matrons seem to retain their charms in wonderful 
preservation. Several whom we noticed in 
Tangier, who had grown-up daughters, were 
models of comeliness, in a refined "fat, fair, and 
forty " style ; and their dress is becoming to 
them at that age. In this respect of the 
retention of good looks they have the advan- 
tage over the Moorish and Spanish women, who 
soon become coarse and " overblown " — so much 
so, that often at thirty the latter look nearly 
double their age. 

Our next visit was to a house where feathers 
were to be obtained. Two fine specimens of the 
flamingo had just been brought in, and an African 
owl, whose delicately speckled breast I quickly 
secured. But it so chanced that that day there 
was no choice of rare plumes. 

The rest of our purchases were made at the 



102 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

shops in the street, and consisted of Moorish trays, 
cushions, slippers, &c. The latter we knew to be 
genuine as local productions, since we could see 
them in every stage of progress ; and in woollen 
yak cloth, too, you may secure an article manu- 
factured in the country ; but many of the finer 
materials are of doubtful origin — a fact of which 
I once heard an amusing instance, in the case 
of some muslin curtains, prettily figured with 
different coloured wools. 

Delighted with this novelty — so Oriental in 
effect, a traveller bought largely of the fabric, 
intending to astonish her friends with these unique 
decorations. To her extreme disgust she after- 
wards found that the same stuff could be obtained 
at Gibraltar for half the cost — that it was from 
either Scotch or Manchester looms, and made 
specially for the Moorish market ! 

There are the ruins of a Roman bridge about 
two miles from Tangier, and every one considers 
it a duty to see them ; but Roman remains are 
common enough in this part of the world ; a 
weary walk to reach them, with the wind blow- 
ing the fine sand into your eyes half the distance, 



TANGIER. 103 

made one exclaim, " Le jeu ne vaut pas la 
chandelle." We gave the preference to lounging 
about amongst the picturesque scenes in which 
the town so richly abounds, and to securing some 
sketches from the airy heights of the Marchande. 

To visit Cape Spartel is also one of the things 
that people are expected to do who stay in its 
vicinity, and we ordered mules for the purpose, 
intending to start on the expedition early the 
following morning — the earliness of the hour 
being a point on which. Mahommed was urgent. 
A night of utter sleeplessness, however, with its 
attendant exhaustion, negatived the arrangement 
as far as the writer was concerned. The distance 
to the Cape and back would be twenty-two miles, 
and if, as is customary, we went on three miles 
further to see certain caves, it would not be 
less than twenty-eight. This, over rough moun- 
tain tracks_, made the ride a fatiguing one ; and 
fearful of breaking down half-way if I ventured, — 
which I was anxious to do if possible, for the sake 
of my amiable companion, — it was decided that 
the attempt should not under the circumstances 
be made at all. 



104 WORD-SKETCHES IN TEE SWEET SOUTH. 

The scenery is described as being very fine and 
wild, as you approach this north-west point — ■ 
mountainous and rugged ; and the views over the 
wide stormy Atlantic are, as such extended views 
always must be, grand. The lighthouse is a 
modern building, erected by the French, and has 
nothing about it of particular interest. 

One of the favourite walks in the neighbour- 
hood of Tangier is to " Mount Washington ; " — 
a strangely cockney sound the name has, but it is 
so called by English and Americans in compliment 
to Washington Irving, whose graceful pen has 
made classic ground of the land of the Moors 
and their once flourishing kingdom in Southern 
Spain. 

Mounted on a donkey, while my friend by 
preference walked, and with Mahommed stalking 
on in front with his long staff and flowing robes, 
turning occasionally to lead my animal over any 
difficult bit, I was irresistibly, though I hope not 
irreverently, reminded of the " Flight into Egypt " 
as usually depicted. The saddle was but a pack 
stuffed with straw, on which one sat sideways. 



TANGIER. 105 

It was very high, and must have added much to 
the poor beast's burden. 

The afternoon was lovely ; and after clearing 
the town and long narrow paths between the 
lanes, it was delightful to breathe the fresh yet 
sun-tempered breezes that swept over the land on 
the wings of spring. The country undulates 
pleasantly : mule-paths are the only roads in this 
direction, and along these tracks we proceeded up 
hill and down dale, and through green pastures 
where somewhat lean cows were grazing, and 
Moorish women flitting about, looking very ghost- 
like in their white yaks, till we reached a spot 
known as the Jews' Bridge. Here, between two 

4 

hills of slight elevation, a little river like a Welsh 
trout stream was making its way over boulders of 
rock to the Atlantic, that we could see gleaming 
blue through an opening ahead. Short yellow 
grass, patches of stony ground, here and there 
a white cottage, marked the hill to the right, 
while the one on the opposite side rose steeply, 
a dark mass of shrubs and trees, crowned by a 
ruin. "With a golden sunset pouring through the 
ragged arches of the latter, burnishing its edges, 



106 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

and gilding the brown tree-tops on the slope, the 
effect of the whole was to produce a most har- 
monious and richly-toned picture, to live evermore 
in memory. 

We now ascended by a roughly-pitched pathway 
between gum cistus bushes, of which there must 
have been many acres. They were all in bloom — 
the flower large and white, but lacking the maroon 
touches of our English ones, that make it the 
" painted lady " of our juvenile notice. The Lau- 
restina was there, flowering freely, and the yellow 
blossom of the Coronella — that home nurseling- 
growing wild here in the greatest luxuriance, 
was bright and abundant enough to be very 
effective. Arrived at the summit of the hill, we 
found ourselves in a green lane, full of the com- 
moner kinds of fern, with gardens on either side 
of us, the suburban retreats of the Tangierines ; 
and into one of these Mahommed obtained us 
admission. The rich soil appeared to require 
but little cultivation, and to receive only that 
little. The vegetation looked rank, the place 
untidy, but the prospect it commanded was very 
fine; and we much enjoyed a few minutes' 



TANGIER. 107 

breathing time on a rustic bench, contemplating 
this panorama. 

The tumbling, unrestful waves of the Atlantic 
were on our left ; the Spanish coast, violet-hued, 
opposite ; far away in the distance, the old Kock, 
faint and pale blue in colouring, but still grand in 
outline ; in the foreground, the heavy shoulder 
of Mount Washington, the sandy creeks, the rocky 
shore of Morocco ; and, looking inland, all the 
lavish fertility of a tropical climate, that leaves not 
much for man to do as a husbandman. 

The air is particularly light and salubrious 
in this north-west corner of Africa, and invalids 
are frequently sent over here from Gibraltar, 
where the draughty corners and grim " Levanter" 
are sometimes very trying to delicate constitu- 
tions. 

We made our way homeward in the lengthening 
twilight shadows ; and in sweet country stillness, 
that was only broken by the tinkling music of a 
cow's bell, or the good-night carol of a bird. 

A few hours later, we were in a different scene, 
and one less soothing to weak nerves. During 



108 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

the table d'hote dinner, some one came in to 
inform us that a Jewish wedding was to take place 
that evening, and that if we liked to- attend it we 
should be welcome. Grlad of the opportunity of 
seeing such a ceremony, we determined on going, 
and accordingly sallied forth at the appointed 
hour under the care of guides. The latter carried 
lanterns, for the night was pitch dark, and Tangier 
is as yet innocent of gas. By the glimmer in 
front we were led on as by an ignis fatuus, and 
had to plunge about, getting painful twists to 
the ankles as we stepped on a big stone with edges 
as sharp as a knife, the next footfall bringing us 
down into a pool of horrors — on to the excru- 
ciating stones again — once more into the slippery 
gutter. Ugh ! 

The bride's house was reached after sundry 
windings among the alleys of the town ; and 
bending our heads as we passed through the low 
portal, we entered a narrow passage, and were 
received by some male members of the family, 
and ushered upstairs. It was a humble abode, 
and its inmates evidently belonged to the poorer 
class ; but whitewash had been recently used with 



TANGIER. 109 

dazzling effect upon the walls, and the muslin 
curtains, hung here and there, were immaculate ; 
while, as for the people, their gentle, courteous 
manners would have graced any station. 

Amidst a din of voices and musical instruments 
that threatened danger to the tympanum of the 
unlucky hearer, we were led into the presence of 
the bride. The religious part of the ceremony 
was over, and the young lady was awaiting the 
hour when she was to be conducted to her future 
home. There she sat, upright, mute, and motion- 
less, with downcast eyes — a coloured statue. 
Anything more perfectly immobile it would be 
difficult to imagine, and one of us exclaimed 
incredulously, " It cannot be a live woman — surely 
it is an image dressed ! " 

It was only on noticing the slight heaving of 
the chest that we were at length assured that the 
form before us was of flesh and blood. She was a 
remarkably fine grown girl, and her face was beau- 
tiful in its regular Madonna-like features ; though 
utterly expressionless. Her charms had been 
considerably heightened by art — cheeks and brows 
denoting that the " illuminating " process had 



110 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

been gone through ; but her gossamer veil softened 
the effect of the paint, and she really looked like 
a very pretty doll. 

Poor thing ! It must have been trying for her 
to sit there attired as she was, in that close, 
stifling atmosphere, and exposed to the gaze of the 
crowd who pressed upon her, obstructing ventila- 
tion. Several times she appeared on the point of 
fainting, and her mother had to fan her assidu- 
ously. The bridal dress was of scarlet cashmere, 
with the fan-shaped ornament in embroidery of 
gold, that is part of the costume of a Barbary 
Jewess, on one side of the front breadth of the 
skirt, a bodice of the same, with a thick white 
muslin covering for the neck ; and on the head, 
the most extraordinary erection ever invented for 
female adornment. 

It consisted of a tower about three-quarters of a 
yard high, covered with some white material, and 
rich in tinsel. From this edifice, the veil was 
pendent, and jewels gleamed upon it, as they also 
did on the person of the fair bride. 

It seemed strange for one in such poor circum- 
stances to be possessed of these gems, but they 



TANGIER. Ill 

were probably only borrowed for the occasion, as 
it is a common practice to lay friends under 
contribution at these times. 

After a few minutes' contemplation of this 
object of interest, we were taken to the bride- 
groom's house, which happened to be adjoining, 
there to see the bride brought in with the 
attendant ceremonies. The good-humoured crowd 
making way for us, we were shown into a small 
room well lighted by candles pkced in rude 
sconces on the walls. The latter were washed 
white, with a bordering of red round the upper 
part. The ceiling was of dark wood. Against 
the wall facing us as we entered, a table had been 
set, with a chair placed upon it, and in a recess 
on the other side, stood a bedstead hung with 
muslin draperies. As honoured guests, we, and a 
few English people, including a young earl and 
his cousin, were accommodated with seats ; and 
whilst waiting for the bride, we looked round 
upon the " company." First, there was the happy 
groom, a little insignificant-looking young man 
in a dark dress, who leant against the door-post 
with that sheepish air which usually dis- 



112 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

tinguishes men in his position; and, next in 
importance, were the respective mothers of the 
contracting parties. 

They were both of them beautiful women, in 
the soft, motherly style which is so charming 
in these Morocco Jewesses ; and they wore on 
their heads a sort of skull-cap made of rich 
silk, with ends either embroidered or edged 
with gold fringe, hanging down behind. The 
mother of the bridegroom wore one of thick green 
silk. 

She it was who presently advanced to the door, 
when the din of tambourines, cymbals, and 
flageolets announced the coming of her daughter-in- 
law, and as the latter stood on the threshold, lifted 
her veil and put to her lips a glass containing wine. 
After a little of this had been drunk, the glass 
was thrown down and dashed to pieces, " to 
signify that even in joy, man is no better than a 
broken sherd." 

Then ensued a wholly unexpected proceeding, 
which seemed to afford great amusement to some 
of those concerned. The chair which had been 
placed upon the table was handed down, the bride 



TANGIER 113 



seated herself upon it, and several young men 
"with a long pull, a strong pull, and a pull 
all together," contrived to raise the chair and its 
fair burden, carry both together into the room, 
and hoist them on to the rickety table ; where 
the young lady sat for awhile — still veiled and 
statuesque. Probably this was emblematical of 
her being enthroned as mistress in her husband's 
house. 

Meanwhile the bridegroom had divested himself 
of his dark blue robe, and disclosed his bridal 
dress underneath, of apricot colour ; but he did not 
take any part in what was going on, more than 
other spectators. 

By-and-by the bride was again seized — chair 
" and all " — lifted from the table, carried to the 
end of the room, and deposited, still enthroned, 
on the bed, whereon also scrambled the two 
mothers, numerous young girls, and as many 
members of the family as could obtain squatting- 
room. 

This absurd scene was too much for the risible 
faculties of the Englishmen present ; and between 
the distracting " hubbub," the intolerable heat, and 

I 



114 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

stifling, unsavoury atmosphere, we were all glad 
to make as speedy an exit as could be managed 
with politeness. 

All blessings attend the happy pair ! 

The following morning we woke to find a 
change in the weather, which gave us fresh 
experiences of the place. The toilet-table was 
covered with fine sand, which had penetrated the 
ill-fitting window ; and combs were clogged, 
brushes full of grit, pomade had received an 
addition which was not an improvement, and 
every article of clothing in the room required a 
thorough shaking before it could be donned. On 
looking out, no distant mountains were visible ; 
but a strong sea was running, and a wind blowing 
that was disturbing the serenity of the sand-hills, 
and sending yellow clouds from them, drifting 
away into the town. The Moors all wrapped their 
jelabeyahs more closely round their stalwart forms, 
and drew the hood over their heads as they battled 
with the gale ; and their women struggled on 
under their heavy burdens — laden baskets, and 
babies carried gipsy-fashion on their backs, looking 



TANGIEE. 115 

like the inferior beings that their lords and 
masters consider them to be. 

Apropos of this fact, we had intended this day 
paying a visit to the ladies composing the harem 
of the Governor, but as we had not signified 
our intention to them, and they like to have 
previous intimation of a morning call from 
Europeans, we were advised to postpone our visit, 
and we therefore asked Mahommed to arrange 
for our seeing them on the following day. 
Accordingly the next morning, he tapped at our 
door to say that he had done so, and that the 
ladies would receive us ; but at the same time we 
heard that the steamer by which we purposed 
returning to Gibraltar was to start almost imme- 
diately, and that if we did not leave by her, an 
inconvenient detention of several days would be 
the result. What was to be done ? 

" Oh, the steamer won't go. There is a regular 
gale blowing, and the Bay is too dangerous for 
her to venture. See, where she is anchored for 
safety." 

Authorities were consulted, and as usual 
opinions differed . The steamer would go — and 

i 2 



116 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

she wouldn't. At last it was decided by the 
sight of " Blue Peter " hoisted. 

" She is going, and we have not a moment to 
lose." So, hastily informing some other ladies in 
the hotel of our intended visit, and giving them 
the opportunity of accompanying us, we started 
in haste, thinking it a pity not to see these 
Moorish beauties, if by possibility it could be 
managed. 

However, on reaching the Bashaw's residence, 
a disappointment awaited us. That personage 
was at breakfast ; and as his family would not be 
permitted to have their meal until his was over 
(and when that would be was of course doubtful), 
it was out of the question for us to wait under 
the circumstances, and we regretfully turned our 
steps from the Alcazaba. 

Then Mahommed suggested that we should try 
and see the harem of the " richest Moor in 
Tangier " (forget his name), and we at once 
repaired to that gentleman's abode. 

The door was opened by a young negress. She 
was a blooming damsel — if the term " blooming " 
can apply to blackness ; and a merry one appa- 



TANGIER. 117 

rently, judging by the broad grin, disclosing rows 
of pearly teeth, with which she answered 
Mahommed's inquiries about the ladies. 

She tripped off to see if we could be admitted, 
and as she did so, we noticed her short, gay skirts, 
and the substantial limbs, naked to the knees, 
beneath them, with the bangles round the ankles. 

Presently she came back to say that her mistress 
was away. Mahommed did not believe this, and 
sent her again to ask if the other ladies could 
receive us, explaining that we were leaving soon, 
and should not be able to call again. 

When the slave returned, she admitted us, and 
leaving Mahommed outside, we found ourselves 
in a small patio about twelve feet square, exqui- 
sitely paved with encaustic tiles in arabesque 
patterns, and with a fountain playing in the 
centre. 

Round this court were apartments, and in one 
of them a female was visible lying in bed. 
Probably, it was the chief wife, who was supposed 
to be "in the country," for Mahommed had 
whispered us, that in all likelihood that was merely 
an excuse for not seeing visitors, when she was 



118 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

not suitably dressed ; and he had added that this 
was to be regretted, as she and her sister — who 
was another wife, were remarkably beautiful 
women. 

However, they would not show themselves 
unadorned, but doubtless inspected us very 
narrowly from the dark recess where they lay. 

We had barely time to note the surroundings, 
ere we were ascending a short, narrow flight of steps 
of red brick, uncarpeted, with whitewashed walls 
on either side, that led to the first gallery, and 
here, at the entrance of one of the rooms, two 
" ladies " were standing to receive us. 

They welcomed us by signs, and as we had no 
interpreter, smiles, nods, and hard staring were 
the only means of communication between us. 
This lasted several minutes, during which each 
took her observations of the others. 

Neither of the women had any pretension to 
good looks, and one of them was decidedly plain — 
thin and angular, very sallow, with bad teeth, 
and a care-worn expression of countenance. The 
other was not lacking in flesh, but it was of a 
flabby kind, and her face was colourless : the nose 



TANGIER. 119 

was large and unshapely, the eyes small — indeed 
she had not one good feature. She appeared, 
however, gentle and amiable, and her manner 
was pleasing. She was dressed in a robe of fine 
white muslin over pink, and had on her head a 
sort of veil of muslin. From the tumbled, con- 
dition of her attire, the probability is, that it had 
been slept in. 

The tips of her fingers, and the toes of her 
ud slippered, stockingless feet, were stained with 
henna, and a most unpleasant effect this had, 
giving the idea that she had been dabbling in 
treacle. 

Behind the ladies stood a slave, carrying 
a child, whose terror at the sight of the strangers 
was not to be overcome by any amount of 
coaxing, and that screamed vigorously. 

TVe were obliged to hurry away, as our time 
was so short ; and did so with regret, as we should 
have liked to have seen more of these specimens 
of our sex whose social conditions are so different 
from our own. However, if not disposed to envy 
them their dull and dreary existence, it was 
satisfactory to have seen a Moorish interior. 



120 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

and to be able to form some idea of its attrac- 
tions. 

Mahommed, when we rejoined him, again 
expressed himself very sorry that we had not had 
the treat of seeing the handsome wives. " But 
they like to put on all their ornaments when they 
are seen by English ladies," was his observation. 

Yery natural, poor things ! Women with 
greater and better resources than they have, 
share with them this weakness ; and besides, the 
more richly they attire themselves, the higher 
the compliment, in their opinion, to their visitor. 

Half an hour afterwards, we were being carried in 
men's arms through the roaring surf out to the boat. 
I heard my name called with words of " adieu " 

from the beach, and turning, saw Mr. , to 

whom, in the haste of departure, we had been 
unable to say " good-bye," and who, weak and 
ailing, had followed, to wish it to us then. 

As the tones reached me indistinctly, mingling 
with the stormy winds and dashing waves, the 
thought crossed my mind, that thus the parting 
spirit may hear the voices from the earthly shore ; 



TANG1EB. 121 



but I did not think that his spirit was ere long 
to embark on the waters of eternity, and that that 
kindly voice was so soon to be silent here, for 



evermore ! 



The passage across was most unpleasant : 
it rained, it blew, and the seas ran high ; and in 
landing from the steamer in a boat on arriving 
at Gibraltar, we got drenched with the waters 
from above and below. 

How long will it be necessary for passengers to 
undergo this discomfort, of having to row, often 
a considerable distance, to and from the ships in 
harbour ? 

No other vehicle being obtainable, on stepping 
on shore I climbed into a Spanish calessa, a 
conveyance which must have been the original 
of the cabriolet of bygone days, and might have 
been used by Noah when he disembarked from 
the Ark. 

It is very high, generally painted yellow, or 
red; springless or nearly so, with a hood dry and 
cracked for want of oil or varnish, and ^rawn by 
a raw-boned, long-faced Rosinante of a horse. 



122 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

The driver sits inside if he has but one person as 
his " fare ; " on the shaft, if he is driving two 
persons. 

There are jaunting-cars for hire ; but for any 
one wishing for " carriage exercise " and perhaps 
a touch of excitement caused by the eccentric per- 
formances of an animal that is rather perplexed 
than otherwise by the vigorous slashing he gets- 
let him try the Spanish calessa. 

We are back in the regions of civilization. 



( 123 ) 



CHAPTER VII. 

THE FIESTA; 

" There is to be a Fiesta de Tows at Algeciras on 
the 5th of June. You should see it." 

" On some accounts I should like to do so ; for 
other reasons, I had rather not. I know that, as 
an amusement peculiar to the country, it has great 
interest for travellers ; but I am afraid it is horribly 
cruel, and I do not wish to indulge my curiosity 
at the expense of being disgusted. How reconcile 
these conflicting feelings ? " 

This was the answer given to the friendly sug- 
gestion, and the awkward query was met by the 
following reply : 

" Oh, the unpleasant part is much exaggerated, 
and Spanish ladies never see anything that is dis- 
agreeable ; they look away at critical moments, 
or use their fans as a screen. It is easily managed, 



124 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

and I assure you the ' spectacle ' is worth seeing— 
really, a very fine sight ; and it would be a great 
pity to miss an opportunity of the kind, which you 
may never have again." 

" And can I leave the place when I like ? " 

" Certainly." 

" Then I'll go." 

Thus it was arranged that I should see — to 
judge with my own eyes of its gory gaiety — that 
grand national sport, a bull-fight. 

When the day came, it turned out a delightful 
one for a summer's day in that climate, for a few 
clouds hung about that tempered the sun's rays 
pleasantly. 

We crossed the Bay in a small steamer freighted 
with holiday folks, all en grande tenue, and their 
faces full of pleasurable anticipation. About 
twenty minutes sufficed to take us over to Alge- 
ciras. The town looks well from the water ; its 
white houses, green shutters, and orange-coloured 
roofs stand out brightly against a background of 
bold hills that exhibit every shade of brown, green, 
and purple in rich variety ; heavy shadowing in 
the deep gorges and hollows, and lighter touches 



THE FIESTA. 125 

on the broad shoulders and topmost ridges — touches 
constantly varying when the sun is rising or 
sinking, or when, as at this moment, passing clouds 
darken with sweeping wings the rocky summits or 
sunny slopes. 

On landing, we found the usually quiet place 
all astir, the inhabitants roused for the occasion; 
crowds of country folk come in, in their picturesque 
costumes, the men wearing breeches and jackets of 
velveteen, trimmed with silver buttons, and some 
with sheepskin mantles and leather leggings ; the 
women in petticoats of brilliant hue. The military 
element was in strong force, and, in addition to 
the native display, there was a large influx of 
Gibraltar people, some officers from the garrison, 
and a limited number of our own soldiers out on 
leave. 

Every one, on arriving, made for the open space 
outside the town, where a fair was being held, 
with the view of loitering among its fascinations 
till it was time to repair to the bull-ring, which 
was situated close by ; and we, after looking into 
one or two churches, and finding nothing in them 
to see but the usual amount of gilding, tawdry 



126 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

decorations, indifferent pictures, and shrines with 
their curious collections of votive offerings, also 
repaired to the scene of the " Feria." 

Two long rows of booths had been erected, and 
wooden buildings run up to form refreshment- 
rooms and a ball-room; the latter was of good 
size, but, the flooring being thickly sanded, the 
pleasures of the dance that night must have been 
attended with choking sensations. 

The booths were constructed of a slight frame- 
work of canes, filled in with leaves or with branches 
of trees and coarse grass, &c, and reminded me of 
similar ones I once saw at a fete at Wiesbaden. 

The wares offered for sale seemed of an inferior 
description, and bad bargains, judging from the 
prices asked ; but the motley assemblage of people 
afforded us amusement, and the parties of Spanish 
girls walking about in the dress in which they had 
attired themselves for the dance in the evening, 
looked odd to English eyes. Robes of white muslin, 
befrilled and paniered, abounded; but those of 
richer materials — silks and satins, blue, pink, green, 
yellow — were also to be seen, and made with long 
trains that swept the ground and raised clouds of 



THE FIESTA. 127 

dust, whilst in many instances boots of white satin 
or kid adorned the feet of the blooming maidens 
as they paced the dirty road gingerly. On this 
occasion white mantillas, of either plain tulle or 
handsomely figured blonde, replaced the ordinary 
black ones, sadly to the disfigurement of the 
wearers, to whose sallow complexions white by 
daylight is very trying. Their mirrors probably 
had told them this, and to remedy the evil the 
generality of them had powdered their faces so 
thickly and carried " illumination " to such a point 
as to give them a most disreputable appearance. 

The tide was setting towards the Plaza de Toros 
now, and it was deemed necessary to be there 
early to secure good places. The doors opened at 
one o'clock, the performance was to commence at 
4.30; so at 3, it was considered none too soon 
to follow the popular example. 

At the entrance I parted from Mrs. , whose 

tauromachian experiences had sufficed her ; with 

Miss , who had never had any, and wished 

for none ; and with , who was known to 

have expressed strong feelings against this equi- 
vocal sort of amusement, and could not, therefore, 



128 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

consistently patronise it ; but he kindly stormed 
the " box-office " and procured a ticket for me and 
another for the Spanish servant who was to attend 
me, and then saw us safely in. 

Our tickets were for the shady side of the 
building, costing a trifle more than the others, 
but well worth the difference in expense ; so we 
entered by the door over which was the word 
" Sombra," and, ascending some stone stairs, reached 
a paved passage some eight or ten feet wide, cor- 
responding with those in our theatres that run 
round the house. From this you pass by one of 
the numerous entrances that admit you to the 
interior, and find yourself in a vast amphitheatre, 
with a sanded arena, a high, strong barrier sepa- 
rating it from the spectators' places above, and 
with screens provided at intervals to afford pro- 
tection to the chubs when hard pressed by a bull. 
The seats rose in tiers, the lower ones open to the 
sky, the upper ones provided with a roofing ; and 
at one end of the ring, just over the doors through 
which the animals are let out, was, here, a kind of 
state box, intended for the use of the governor 
of the town and his friends. 



THE FIESTA. 129 

It was amusing to watch the people trooping in 
to their seats, and, on our side of the building, it 
was done without any confusion. On the opposite 
side a few scenes occurred, ending, in one instance, 
in the police marching some of the disturbers of 
the peace off to prison ; and in grave Spain, as 
in merry England, "chaff" seemed bandied to and 
fro in a very spirited manner by the shabby- 
looking individuals who occupied the lower places, 
and who appeared to be of the class corresponding 
with the " roughs " of our own race-courses. 

Sellers of cakes, fruit, and programmes, and 
water-carriers with their classical-shaped jars, 
carried on a brisk trade as they climbed about 
amongst the crowd. The latter represented every 
grade in the social scale, and every age, from the 
shrivelled grandame to the chubby babe. Whole 
families arrived together, often accompanied by 
their servants, for these latter would probably 
have declined remaining away had such a thing 
been suggested to them : but it would not, — attend- 
ance at a Fiesta being considered a matter of 
course by high and low. 

As the benches filled, which they did at last to 

K 



130 WORD-SKETCHES IN TEE SWEET SOUTH. 

overflowing, the scene became very animated and 
gay. A company of soldiers, in blue and scarlet 
uniforms, made a large blot of colour at one spot ; 
and all the silk and satin robes — pink, green, and 
yellow — that had swept the streets so tidily, now 
shimmered brightly here and there amongst the 
masses of soft white produced by the diaphanous 
dresses of the maidens of simpler taste or lighter 
purse. The flutter of fans produced an effect 
almost indescribable ; but it may be partly ima- 
gined when the facts are stated that twelve thou- 
sand persons were present, that with scarcely an 
exception (amongst the Spaniards) each one had 
a fan, and that each one made use of the article. 
Some of these fans were about a yard long, affording 
shade as well as a powerful breeze to the wielder. 

As the hour drew near for the commencement 
of the performance, excitement increased, and it 
was a relief from a state of tension when at last 
a trumpet sounded and a procession entered, con- 
sisting of the picadores on horseback, the ehulos on 
foot, and the mules, with their smart trappings, 
that were to carry off the slain. It was wonder- 
fully suggestive of Astley's ! 



THE FIESTA. 131 

Having made obeisance to the Governor, gone 
through the form of asking his permission for the 
affair to commence, and received it from him, with 
the key of the bull's cell, the performers filed off, 
the mules were taken away out of sight till wanted, 
the chulos or matadores placed themselves con- 
veniently for action, and the three picadores took 
up their respective positions. The poor horses 
they rode were miserable-looking animals^ though 
I noticed that one of them strove to " make the 
best of himself," and to curvet and prance as he did 
before his limbs had become stiff with age or hard 
work. They were all blindfolded, which added to 
the helplessness of their appearance. 

Now was the exciting moment. All eyes were 
fixed on the door of the bull's cell, by which stood 
a man to open it at a given signal. 

Just as at our races, when the course is cleared 
and the " inevitable dog " has to be chased off, so 
here the " small boy " of Spain creates a sensation, 
and with a similar result. One of the gamin tribe 
chose this instant for letting himself down over the 
barrier, running across the arena, and trying to 
clamber up to a place on the other side. This 

k 2 



132 WORD-SKETCHES IN TEE SWEET SOUTH. 

feat fired others with similar ambition ; several got 
down for the same purpose, and a comical scene 
ensued as the policemen rushed about after the 
nimble youngsters, who squealed with mischievous 
delight at the trouble they were giving. 

At last, once more all was clear, and attention 
again directed to the centre door under the gallery 
where sits the Governor. 

It opens. I had expected to see the bull come 
out with a rush and a roar. This one — -a large, 
dun-coloured creature — did not ; he was slow in 
leaving his dark quarters, but, having done so, he 
turned quick as lightning upon the man who had 
opened the door, and who was endeavouring to 
hide himself behind it. 

A matador stepped forward with his red flag, 
and the attention of the bull was immediately 
diverted. He ran at the offensive object, and the 
art of the matador was exhibited in springing 
aside, which he did with wonderful agility and 
grace. This was repeated many times, but the 
animal did not appear very ferocious. He seemed 
rather stupefied by the sudden glare of light and 
the " novelty of the situation " in finding himself 



THE FIESTA. 133 

surrounded by such a concourse of human beings. 
By-and-by, however, he encountered a picador, and 
received a prick from his lance, which doubtless 
was irritating, as after that, a great deal more spirit 
was manifest in his attacks. Still his behaviour 
did not satisfy the spectators, and I heard him 
called, contemptuously and impatiently, "a bad 
bull," by people in my neighbourhood. 

The bandilleros now advanced, and, coming 
close up to him, contrived to stick, one after the 
other, six arrows, ornamented with little flags, into 
him on each side of his neck — a dangerous and 
difficult thing to do, as may be supposed. Driven 
almost frantic by this fresh torture, the hapless 
brute plunged and tossed violently, vainly striving 
to rid himself of the arrows, and by his efforts 
only causing their effect to be more painful. He 
rushed at one of the picadores, and in a moment 
he and his horse were in the air. The man, though 
dismounted by the toss, was uuhurt ; but the horse 
— it is too horrible to describe. The other pica- 
dores were also attacked, the horse of one wounded, 
and the matador known as El Grordito had a 
narrow escape, as the bull made a lunge at him. 



134 WORD-SKETQHES M THE SWEET SOUTH. 

For a moment it was thought that it was he him- 
self, and not his gay jacket covered with spangles, 
that had received the sharp thrust, and intense 
excitement reigned amongst the thousands who 
were watching the scene breathlessly ; but, step- 
ping forward, El Gordito bowed to the sympathetic 
multitude, and pointing to his ripped-up jacket 
thus told them that he was unhurt. Hats and caps 
were then thrown at him by way of compliment. 

By this time, I was sickened by the proceed- 
ings ; but being closely wedged in where I sat, it 
would have been difficult if not impossible to make 
my way out ; besides, having come with the 
determination of forming a fair judgment, it would 
have been childish to shrink back after going 
half-way. So I tried to sit still, and to be calm 
and dispassionate while looking on at this extra- 
ordinary exhibition designed for giving pleasure. 

Blood was flowing freely from the infuriated 
bull, that showed no lack of spirit now, and from 
the wounded horses. One of the latter presented 
a piteous sight as it lay dying, but raised itself 
now and then to look around with a ghastly — and 
to me it seemed almost a human look. 



THE FIESTA. 135 

Why could not animals in this state, have the 
coup de grace given them ? But no, the noble 
beast that the Englishman has called his friend, is 
wholly unappreciated by the Spaniard, and to all 
animal suffering the latter is equally indif- 
ferent. But the end had to come. With the 
horses Jiors de combat, the career of the bull was 
ended. As it chanced, it was standing exactly 
below the spot where I was seated, when the 
espada whose office it is to kill it, approached it 
for that purpose, sword in hand. 

It was supposed that the death-blow was very 
scientifically given, as the creature fell instantly 
as if shot. 

And now, the mules, gaily caparisoned, were 
brought in, having ropes with hooks attached to 
them ; and by some arrangement the dead, or 
supposed to be dead, bull, was hooked on and 
dragged off rapidly, while a band struck up a 
lively tune. 

But the unfortunate bull was not quite dead. 
The horses were next dragged off, also presumed 
to be dead. 

Then occurred one of the most painful sights of 



136 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

the whole, as the poor animal whose " gameness " 
I had noticed throughout, struggled to its feet, 
and tried to drag itself along — faithful to the last, 
to what in its equine intelligence was the call 
of duty. The brutal muleteer, possibly annoyed 
at the " spectacle " being thus spoilt, flogged it 
vigorously. 

In the stir which ensued amongst the assembled 
throng, as they discussed the points of the last 
fight, and looked forward to the next — for six or 
seven more bulls were to follow — I made my exit, 
the purpose of the visit being achieved ; and faint 
with suppressed feeling, was glad to get away, 
where I might look and say what I thought. 
This, whilst surrounded by an excited crowd, I 
should scarcely have been safe in doing. 

Meeting just afterwards, and remark- 
ing on the barbarity which was shown in the 
sacrifice of horses in bull-fights, he said it was the 
end that most of the horses on the Rock came to ; 
and he added, " I shall shoot mine, as the most 
humane thing to do with him, when our regiment 
is ordered off." 



TEE FIESTA. 137 

And he did so, — all honour to him ! 

" Well," it will be asked, " and what did you 
gain by doing violence to your feelings in witness- 
ing such unpleasant sights as you have de- 
scribed ? " 

I have acquired the conviction, that it is not so 
much the actual cruelty as the gross exhibition of 
it that shocks outsiders; and a compassionate 
feeling has taken the place of the one of reproba- 
tion with which I regarded the people whose 
distinctive peculiarity it is to love these horrible 
displays. 

Of the depraved taste which can find delight in 
the spectacles that are seen in the bull-ring, 
enough has been said by writers on the subject ; 
and it is generally admitted that it evidences a 
fierceness and brutality of disposition in those who 
enter with such zest into the amusement; also, 
that the scenes thus familiarized to the mind from 
an early age have a tendency to produce senti- 
ments the reverse of humane in the young. All 
this is true ; but whilst condemning as warmly as 
we may a barbarous and demoralizing pastime, 
allowances must be made for the circumstances 



138 WORD-SEETCEES IN TEE SWEET SOUTH. 

under which it is capable of affording such intense 
gratification. 

The Spanish peasant is ignorant — steeped in 
ignorance and superstition; retaining much of the 
dark ages about him as regards his non-education, 
and the submission with which he yields himself 
to priestly guidance : what has been must be still ; 
as his fathers did before him, so he is content to 
do ; and if the Fiesta de Toros was an institution 
of past times, it must remain one of the present 
day. His natural indolence, indulged to excess, 
makes it needful that anything to arouse or 
interest him must have pungent qualities. He 
does not drink, though he smokes ; he is not a 
glutton — he lives sparingly ; he does not fight 
from pugnacious propensities ; he is content to let 
the world go round as it will, and to trouble 
himself very little about mundane affairs generally. 
But now and then he wants a stimulant, and a 
bull-fight meets the requirements of a nature 
which has something of the sanguinary in its 
composition, albeit the elements may be dor- 
mant. 

The remarks which apply to the lower orders 



THE FIESTA. 139 

apply also in a modified form to the middle and 
upper classes. The tradesman is glad of an 
occasional " fillip " of an exciting kind ; the aris- 
tocrat condescends to share the feeling, and to 
patronize the popular amusement. 

Perhaps if you argued with the latter on the 
cruelty of the exhibition, and protested against it 
on that ground, he would turn upon you and ask, 
how Englishmen can tolerate steeple-chasing, with 
its fearful risk to both horse and rider, — hare- 
hunting, or the cold-blooded chase after a stag 
turned out of a cart. Pigeon-shooting he would 
cast in our teeth ; and the triumphs of the battue, 
where, while the necessity for being a good shot is 
dispensed with, a taste for butchery may be 
glutted, without the fatigue attaching to more 
sportsmanlike achievements. 

He would say that it is the nerve and skill 
displayed by the men acting as matador es aud 
picadores that are the attractive points at a bull- 
fight, that the risk to human life is but slight, and 
that the suffering of the animals is but of short 
duration — shorter by far than that of a wounded 
bird lost in the covert. And if we say, " Ah, but 



140 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

the horse is such a noble animal — the bull such a 
magnificent brute/' he might retort, that a pigeon 
is such a sweet thing ; the hare such a timid, 
trembling little creature ; and he would quote 
the lines of our poet, and tell us, 

" The poor beetle that we tread upon, 
In corporeal suffering feels a pang as great 
As when a giant dies." 

Perhaps we are too apt to measure cruelty by 
the size of the victim, and to shudder at it only 
when its attendant circumstances are coarse and 
revolting. 

Moreover, agonies that we do not see endured, 
imagination is loth to picture ; and many a kindly 
dame gives her orders for stewed eels or lobster 
salad without troubling herself about the tortures 
which her cook will inflict before either dish is 
placed upon the table. 

With regard to the presence of Spanish women 
in large numbers at the bull-fights — a fact for 
which they have received universal condemnation 
■ — it must be remembered that there are accessories 
to these fetes, of a kind which possess attraction 
for women of the most feminine character. Here 



TEE FIESTA. 141 

friends are met and acquaintances made ; it is a 
rare occasion for the display of finery, for seeing 
and being seen, for exciting admiration and 
enjoying flirtation ; and nine out of ten women 
find pleasure in attending, for these reasons 
alone. 

Besides, the unfortunate force of habit must be 
taken into consideration ; and that is why, perhaps 
the worst feature in the whole affair, the custom 
exists of taking children to these shows, and thus 
familiarizing them with scenes fit only for an 
abattoir, notwithstanding the lurid grandeur with 
which they are invested. 

Let not the English lady, however, raise her 
eyes and hands in horror at her Spanish sisters, 
whose gentle manners and domestic virtues quite 
rival her own ; rather let her pray for the day, 
when the spread of education and the refining 
influence of a heartfelt Christianity will make the 
Fiesta de Toros a thing of the past, ranking with 
.those gladiatorial shows of which it is after all but 
the mild reflection — their successor in an improved 
form, though still a form that savours of bar- 
barism. 



142 WOBB-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

Only true civilization, that will give the people 
a taste for higher and purer pleasures than 
witnessing the slaughter of bulls and ripping-up 
of horses will efface this dark blot from the fair 
land of Spain. 



( 143 



CHAPTER VIII. 

CADIZ. 

Haying missed the opportunity of accompanying 
friends on their visiting Seville and Grranada, and 
not hearing of any others to join at the time it 
best suited her to make the tour, the writer mus- 
tered courage, and determined on proceeding into 
Andalusia alone. 

Armed with a sort of passport from our Gover- 
nor — a paper certifying that I was a British sub- 
ject, and that I had permission to travel in Spain 
— a document which, as it happened, was not 
required, but which might under some circum- 
stances have been useful, — I started on the expe- 
dition. The first start was a false one — the old 
story, the steamer not sailing as advertised ; and 
after rising at three o'clock a.m., to the disturb- 
ance of the household, and jolting down in a car 



144 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

to the harbour, it was irritating to the temper, 
and damping to one's travelling ardour, to have to 
return ignominiously home, and with the chance 
of a similar disappointment recurring one knew 
not how often. 

An instance was told me of a family with a 
considerable amount of furniture and luggage, 
having to repair to the quay more than a dozen 
times, with bag and baggage carted there and 
back on each occasion, ere they were fortunate 
enough to find a boat that kept its engagement. 
They were bound for Tangier. 

Luckily for me, my second venture was success- 
ful. My friend Mrs. kindly saw me on 

board the ' Adriano,' and spoke to the captain 
about his " unprotected female " passenger. 

This led to the engineer, who was an English- 
man, being deputed to ascend from grimy depths 
now and then to see how I was getting on. He 
informed me that he was English ; but apparently 
he had been so many years in his present employ- 
ment that he spoke his own language in broken 
accents, and seemed more at home with the 
Spanish. 



CADIZ. 145 

The silvery morning and the glassy bay, were 
succeeded by a golden noon, and some rollers out- 
ride the Straits. Cadiz was reached in eight 
hours. 

The city glistens like a line of dazzling white- 
ness, between the deep blue of heaven above, and 
the blue waves of ocean below. This is the distant 
effect. Approaching nearer, you observe the enor- 
mous sea-walls or fortifications, partly rock, partly 
stone building, — the long row of palatial edifices, 
the residences of wealthy inhabitants — and you 
may note that many of these houses have a tower 
or campanile at one corner of the roof; the design 
of this was, originally, that merchants might descry 
their vessels coming into harbour, at the earliest 
moment. 

These towers give a somewhat fantastic effect 
to the substantial erections, but are picturesque, 
breaking the roof-line. 

The Cathedral looks imposing, though glaringly 
white. Everything is glaringly white, save the 
green stripe which marks the Alameda ; and so one 
blinks a little as one gazes on the fair city at two 
o'clock in the afternoon of an August day. 

L 



146 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

Simultaneously with the paddles of the steamer 
ceasing to revolve, a rush is made, and she is 
boarded by the boatmen, who have brought their 
boats alongside. The usual vociferations, frantic 
snatches at hand-bags, and claims of rivals to your 
possession, follow. 

I went on shore in a boat that promised least 
confusion ; viz., one that had for her freight a few 
country people, and a company of soldiers. 

Whilst waiting to push off, detained by the 
crowd of other craft, I was able to realize what 
heat under a vertical sun is. The sensation was 
that of being frizzled, toasted brown ; and the red 
trousers of the soldiers gave a finishing touch to 
the glowing warmth of the picture. When the 
fares were collected, some small change should 
have been given to me, but this the man who was 
collecting ignored, as the passenger was " none the 
wiser." The transaction, however, was noticed by 
the quick eye of the officer in charge of the soldiers, 
and from his angry glances and stern manner as 
he turned upon the boatman and alluded to the 
Senora, he was evidently rating him soundly for 
his extortion. 



CADIZ. 147 

The latter tried to make good his own case, — or 
at least he did not better mine. It was but a rt two- 
penny-halfpenny " matter ; still, the interference 
in my behalf was kindly, not to speak of its just- 
ness. Thanks, Senor Capitan ! Unencumbered 
with more luggage than I could carry myself, the 
custom-house presented no impediments in my path 
on landing ; and when the commissionaire (rejoicing 
in the name of Somerset) from the " Hotel de 
Paris " announced himself, I was soon rattling off 
in one of the carriages belonging to that establish- 
ment. The driver was a dark-skinned dandy, 
attired coolly and comfortably in a white shirt 
spotted with pink, wide white trousers, and a 
straw hat with an immensely broad brim. No coat 
or waistcoat oppressed him. 

How pleasant it was to pass from the blinding 
glare outside into the blue gloom of the house ! 
How refreshing to step on the cool tiles and up 
the marble stairs, after the pitiless flags of the 
street ! 

Nice, too, to hear the plash of water, and see 
the green ferns in the patio — for here, as through- 
out Southern Spain, the Moorish arrangement of 

l 2 



148 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

dwelling-houses prevails. There is a courtyard in 
the centre, and galleries run round the house on 
every floor. These are furnished with glass win- 
dows, which can be closed in chilly weather, and 
thus form corridors. All the apartments open on 
these shady galleries, and as the outer windows of 
the house are provided with wooden Venetian 
shutters, which exclude the sun's rays effectually, 
the heat is scarcely felt ; and even the mosquitoes 
cease to be troublesome, in the moderate tempera- 
ture that is secured. 

The flies are pests at table ; and the plan adopted 
for baffling them in their predatory attacks on the 
dessert and sweets, does not add to the attractive 
appearance of the latter. Wire dish-covers — such 
as are in use in English larders — guard the fruit, 
bonbons, and pastry, until the moment arrives for 
handing them round. The effect is very ugly ; 
but, probably, gauze would in the long run be 
more expensive ; so it may be a question of 
economy. 

As vin ordinaire, a decanter of Manzanilla or some 
other white wine, is placed beside each guest. 

Here, for the first time, I saw cigars lighted at 



CADIZ. 149 

dinner. It was, apparently, too long to wait 
through the usual courses without this solace to 
existence ; and long ere the meal was over, one 
after another of the Spaniards present struck his 
fusee, coaxed his weed into play, and puffed clouds 
over the viands, producing an unpleasing mixture 
of odours — especially as garlic entered largely 
into the composition of most of the dishes. 

There were no English staying at the hotel — 
though one of the waiters informed me in French 
that some of my nationality were under the roof. 
This he did with most considerate good feeling for 
the lady travelling alone. But he had made the 
natural mistake with foreigners, of supposing all 
who speak English to have come from Eng- 
land. 

Americans these were, — the gentleman holding 
an official position in the place, and occasionally 
attending with his wife the table d'hote at the 
hotel. 

When we met, there was' no cause to regret 
their not being my compatriots, for their unaffected 
kindness and fraternization were most pleasing. 
" Are we not all of the same race ? " remarked the 



150 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

lady ; " and should not Americans and Eng- 
lish be drawn together naturally as kindred 
people?" 

Acting in this genial spirit, she expressed the 
wish to be of assistance to me in sight-seeing ; and 
kindly took me to see the Alameda, the Plaza de 
San Antonio, and other places of interest, and we 
attended the English service together on Sunday 
evening. It was held in a small room, in a house 
that appeared to be occupied as a private residence. 
The form was Presbyterian, and the minister threw 
heart and soul into both praying and preaching, 
till the " upper chamber " seemed that night almost 
the " gate of heaven." 

But his fervour was not the result of excitement 
consequent upon having a concourse of people 
hanging upon his words, for the congregation could 
scarcely have numbered twenty ; and on this fact 
and its disheartening effect, he commented sadly 

in a few words spoken to Mrs. after the 

meeting was over. 

There seems to be great difficulty in keeping up 
any English Protestant service. The Episcopalian 
had been given up altogether; and this one was 



CADIZ. 151 

so badly supported that it appeared threatened 
with the same fate. 

It is strange that it should be so, in a town like 
Cadiz, whither so many persons professing to be 
of the reformed Church are drawn on business ; 
but continued residence in a Eoman Catholic coun- 
try is apt to make many — who under other cir- 
cumstances would feel very differently — give up, 
little by little, the strict observance of the Sabbath ; 
and the day's ordinances losing their value, are no 
longer provided for willingly. . 

Their neighbours amuse themselves on the 
Sunday, generally finishing the day at the opera 
or the ball ; the example is attractive, and it is 
followed. But, unfortunately, it is only the u plea- 
sure " part of the day's programme that is so taking 
with strangers, the previous worship is not con- 
sidered, nor the fasts and vigils preceding that. 

It is scarcely a wonder if Romanists, judging 
from what they see in many localities, deem us to 
be Godless, and think Protestantism only another 
word for infidel licence. 

The town of Cadiz is wonderfully clean, and it 
is cheerful looking in spite of the streets being 



152 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

many of them so narrow that only one carriage 
can pass through them at a time. Whitewash 
does wonders in Spain ; . it does for the houses 
what too frequently powder does for, the faGes of 
her donas — hides all imperfections natural or ac- 
quired ; and every summer the whitewashing pro- 
cess is rigorously gone through outside and inside 
dwellings. ,,.,.. 

As it is usually performed at the same season by 
every one,. there, is no patchiness visible, but one 
wash seems to have passed over the entire town or 
village y and the : .effect is brilliant. 

The first .heavy rains, though, change the aspect 
of these whitened walls very disadvantageously. 

The sights, of .Cadiz are .soon seen, and thanks to 
the kindly'; American lady and her, husband, the 
usual, guide was .exchanged for a French gentle- 
man whom i they introduced to me to form an escort 
on the expedition. 

" The temple of Grades, forbidden to women and 
pigs," came to memory as we wended our way 
towards the modern cathedral. It is a huge, new- 
looking edifice ; the interior is in the florid Co- 
rinthian style, and is so highly decorated that for a 



CADIZ. 153 

moment you scarcely know on which details to fix 
your attention. The fact that it cost £300,000 
inclines you, when you know it, to think that there 
must be something- to admire amongst so much 
that is costly ; but when the eye has taken it all in, 
the mind is disappointed. Here, as in nearly all 
the churches in Southern Spain, the lavishness of 
decoration amounts to superabundance, and is 
offensive to good taste. 

Marbles of the rarest, gilding, statuary, pictures 
— there' they are, an emharras de richesse ; enough 
to ornament several churches all .thrust into one. 
The effect is oppressive, and you .regret the waste 
of. good material which might have been turned 
to so much better account. 

This bad style has been denominated the 
" churrigueresque." 

Amongst the pictures is a copy of one of 
Murillo's, which is considered good, and a St. Luke 
by Ribera ; but the latter is in such a bad light 
one cannot judge of its merits. 

Braving the .fierce sunbeams once more was 
very trying, as, passing out of the dim twilight of 
the cathedral, we proceeded to Los Capuchinos to 






154 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

see the last work of Murillo. We were led through 
some apartments of the building and a row of 
cloisters to the chapel, in which this painting forms 
the altar-piece. The subject is the " Marriage of 
St. Catherine." In drawing it is pre-eminently 
graceful, but the colouring is somewhat tame. 
Probably, had the painter lived to finish his work, 
this would not have been the case ; but ere it was 
completed he fell from the scaffolding, and died 
shortly afterwards of the injuries he had received. 

There is, however, a " San Francisco " of the 
great master that is worth a pilgrimage to see ; 
and we were fortunate in obtaining a better view 
of the picture than can always be had, for it was 
being copied, and for this purpose had been 
removed from its usual position and placed upon 
an easel in a good light. 

" San Francisco receiving the Stigmata " is the 
name by which this beautiful work is known. 

The kneeling saint, with hands outstretched, 
looks upwards with earnest eyes — eyes wherein an 
expression of glowing fervour is blended with that 
of humble submission. It is a face to haunt one 
with its hallowed look — the touching resignation, 






CADIZ. 155 

the intensity of love it wears. The tone of the 
picture is in perfect keeping with its subject. 
The warm, rich brown of the drapery stands out 
against a background of sweet, clear colouring, in 
which green and blue are magically harmonized. 

Long we stood gazing on it, till the figure 
seemed instinct with life. Then I turned away 
reluctantly, and leaving the quiet church,, went 
back into the town to purchase photographs with 
the aid of my amiable escort ; and, after a visit of 
" adieu " to Mrs. , left for Seville. 

On leaving Cadiz for Seville by train, you pass 
along the narrow slip of land that is the form the 
Isla de Leon takes for some distance, and have the 
blue waters dancing and sparkling on either side. 
Then you come upon the salt-marshes, which have 
a singular appearance. Small dykes are cut in 
every direction over the flat, sombre-hued, treeless 
country, and here and there huge mounds or 
hillocks of salt have been piled up, looking like 
snow. Carts may be seen laden with it, and mules 
and asses bearing the same burden, or waiting 
whilst a portion is dug out or sliced off for 
customers. 



156 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

This is the scenery till San Fernando is reached, 
a picturesque-looking town ; then you cross the 
river which divides the island from the mainland, 
and notice the arches of the old Roman aqueduct 
running parallel with the railroad. 

And now, with Cadiz, San Fernando, Puerto 
Eeal, and . a few villages all in view, you receive 
the impression . of being in a most busy, populous 
district. It certainly is a very bright, airy, sunny 
corner of the, world; full of life, and teeming with 
interest in the history of the past, both of ancient 
and of modern times. 

Port St. Mary's is next reached, but nothing 
is seen of the town save the walls and some house- 
tops. One may fancy the air, however, to be 
redolent of sherry, as one passes on and sees for 
many miles on either hand, far as the eye can 
reach, vineyards upon vineyards stretching away 
over hill and dale. Each particular proprietary has 
a small white cottage on it — suggestive of the 
" lodge in a garden of cucumbers ;" and the vines 
are not trellised as in Italy, but grown as they are 
in Burgundy or on the Rhine-banks — on low sticks. 
They do not consequently look more picturesque 



CADIZ. 157 

than vines do in the North ; that is to say, it is only 
sentiment that elevates them above cabbage-gardens. 
The wine-producing country extends some distance 
beyond Xerez. This town must be worth visiting, 
and its cellars are considered a sight — not to speak 
of the tastings which might lure a connoisseur to 
gratify his curiosity by going to see those vast stores. 
At Xerez station a Spanish lady and her 
daughter entered the carriage in which I was. 
The faded beauty of the mother attracted me — 
rather sadly perhaps, as I could not help specu- 
lating as to her age, and thinking how evanescent 
is the loveliness of these daughters of the South. 
In England she would have been pronounced fifty ; 
here, under forty — indeed she was probably not 
five-and-thirty. With that politeness which is 
natural to a Spanish woman, she immediately made 
some graceful overtures to acquaintance ; and 
seeing that I had vainly tried to attract the atten- 
tion of the water-seller at the station, her anxiety 
on arriving at the next stopping-place, and vexa- 
tion on finding that no jars of water were brought 
for sale, far exceeded my own. Ere she quitted 
the train, which happened very soon, she gave me 



158 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

a lesson in what I was to say ; for her efforts at 
conversation had been met on my part by a smile 
and shake of the head, from the fact that albeit 
I could understand her Spanish, I could not speak 
one word of that language in reply, and she 
seemed not to know any other. " I am so sorry 
I have been such bad company," was her observa- 
tion at parting ; and then both ladies offered their 
hands for a friendly shake. 

"Well — " One touch of Nature makes the whole 
world kin," and my thirst was the " touch " in this 
instance that woke their womanly sympathy. It was 
pleasant. Apropos of thirst and its gratification, 
it was quite amusing to notice how universal was 
the demand for water along the line. Not beer — 
not sherry — not effervescing beverages, as in 
England during great heat. "Agua" (water) 
was the cry, alike from the crowd of cigar-smoking 
men as from the women and children ; and the 
want was supplied by men who walked up and 
down the platform, each with a huge earthen jar 
slung at his back, and an iron contrivance like 
a cruet-stand, in which was a glass tumbler, 
fastened on in front. 



CADIZ. 159 

"Agua! agua!" they cried: — an idea for the 
thirsty English multitudes. 

The snn was sinking as we passed out of the 
sherry -land and traversed a wild, desolate country, 
the marked features of which were, tawny banks, 
with strips of olive plantations, umber plains 
speckled with herds of wild-looking cattle — the 
famed bulls bred for the bull-ring — here and there 
pools mirroring the roseate sky — dashes of richest 
purple in the distance. 

This was the scene on which the orb of day 
went down in splendour ; but the " after-glow " 
was superb, when gleams of crimson and gold in 
the heavens were reflected in places upon the dark 
velvety sweep of earth that spread itself in one 
broad mass to the verge of the horizon. 

In a few minutes after this it was night ; and 
for the remainder of the journey nothing could be 
seen, save the lights that indicated the towns we 
passed — amongst them the important one of 
Utrera. 

It was nearly eleven o'clock when the train 
stopped at Seville. The commissionaire from the 



160 WORD-SKETCHES IN TEE SWEET SOUTH. 

" Fonda de Paris " was waiting at the station, so 
I had no trouble. (It is convenient to stop at the 
three corresponding hotels — the " Fonda de Paris," 
Cadiz, ditto at Seville, and " Fonda Suiza," Cor- 
dova ; as, belonging to the same proprietors, their 
guests are recommended on to each establishment, 
and notice is given by telegraph, at times when 
the houses are crowded, that accommodation may 
be secured.) 

It was a novel and striking sight to drive 
through the streets of Seville at that hour, for 
some scores of " interiors " were revealed, each 
of which had a certain picturesqueness. 

On account of the heat the front door would be 
left open, and the cancel, or gate of iron-work 
closed. This enabled one to see inside the house, 
and produced the effect, as one passed through the 
dimly-lighted streets, of a succession of bright 
pictures. 

In some, instances the courtyard or patio 
disclosed to view was the conventional one of 
a tiled court, with a fountain playing in the 
centre, surrounded by ferns or flowering shrubs ; 
in others, marble pillars and light drapery, with 



SEVILLE. 161 

scarlet cushions on luxurious couches showed the 
taste of the owner; whilst in many, Moorish 
arches and beautiful arabesques, with rich- coloured 
hangings, might be seen, either brilliantly lighted 
by candles, or more softly illuminated by a pendent 
lamp. Nor were these apartments untenanted. 
Family groups, and single figures, and couples 
en tete-a-tete were there. Paterfamilias in easy 
costume, languidly puffing his cigar ; his esposa 
enjoying the dolce far niente of the hour, while 
still flirting her fan ; persons engaged card-play- 
ing, &c. &c. Varied are the tableaux that present 
themselves. 

The waiters were yawning, and the household 
preparing for bed, as the hotel was reached. By 
advice, to the effect that by reason of the high 
temperature just then — 96° in the shade — a 
groundfloor bedroom would be the coolest, I chose 
such an apartment; but had to rue it, for every 
vehicle that passed rolled like thunder along the 
roughly pitched street, and seemed to be driving 
into the room ; while at early morn the screeching 
crowds of Seville gamins and cart-drivers made the 
air ring with hideous discord. Sleep was not to 

M 



162 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

visit the occupant of that chamber ; and I after- 
wards removed to one on the first floor, which, with 
the advantage of being quieter, was really quite as 
cool : but probably the heat in the uppermost 
stories would be painfully felt in the dog-days. 



( 163 ) 



CHAPTER IX. 

SEVILLE. 

The guide was awaiting me to know when he 
was to be in attendance, as I crossed the patio 
on the way to breakfast, and doubtless accus- 
tomed to early hours in travellers, was surprised 
at finding one who appeared on the scene 
so late. " Service was over at the Cathedral." 
Presumably every one made a rush for that 
service ; present client did not ; entertaining the 
idea that physical freshness is a vast aid to mental 
enjoyment, and that the lack of the former ought 
to be taken into consideration when possible. 
Many an evil report of a fair land may be traced 
to a jaundiced eye ; and a weary brain cannot 
take a deep and true impress of things of beauty. 
To rest is better therefore than to rush, some- 
times. 

M 2 



164 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

The exterior of the Cathedral is disappointing 
to those who are not familiar with it from pictures. 
The walls look bare and smooth ; though the 
flame-shaped battlements strike you as a pecu- 
liarity ; but you miss the rich ornamentation 
which distinguishes the finest specimens of church 
architecture in the north, of Europe. 

You ask what that row of truncated pillars 
along the steps on the north side can be for. The 
answer is, that they originally formed part of a 
mosque, and before that belonged to a Roman 
temple ; for Salambo (Astarte), Mahomet, and 
the Virgin Mary have successively been wor- 
shipped on this site. 

You enter through a fine doorway, and then, 
in all its grandeur, you see this magnificent 
temple. 

It is not the lofty but narrow avenue, which, 
beautiful as it may be, yet oppresses the beholder 
with a sense of being closed in and suffocated — as 
in churches like Westminster Abbey, Amiens, and 
some others where the Gothic idea is carried out 
fully. Here there is height, indeed — 145 feet, 
while the transept dome rises to 171 feet; but 



SEVILLE. 165 

there is immense width as well. Five out of the 
seven aisles are open ; the other two form side 
chapels. Thus the view is extensive ; you feel 
there is breathing room ; and the effect produced 
on the writer was not perhaps the one that the 
unknown architect of this glorious fane intended 
it should produce. " Eoom for all " was the 
impression it conveyed. No cramped views — no 
bigoted notions — but, with widely extended arms, 
the church seems to say to the soul, " Enter here, 
and in these numerous avenues, all possessing the 
same precious centre, all sheltered by the same 
protecting roof, all pointing heavenwards as 
to the same future home, worship as one human 
family ; differing, as human families do, in indi- 
vidual taste and character, but one in aim and 
interest in things eternal." 

A fanciful thought — one far from the present 
truth ; but who knows how nearly it may be 
realized in the Future ? 

Yastness and breadth you find in this structure, 
viewing it from the nave. As you enter the coro> 
or choir, the extreme richness and finish of deco- 
ration are the attractive features. Perhaps David 



166 WORD-SKETCHES IN TEE SWEET SOUTH. 

Koberts's well-known picture of Seville Cathedral 
is rather misleading as regards the appearance 
of the high altar, for the darkness of the superb 
retablo was to me a surprise. So dark is the wood, 
and the gilding so dimmed by the fumes of incense, 
that it is only in the afternoon, when the sun 
streams in through the windows of the southern 
transept, that the exquisite carvings can be seen 
at all. 

Then, the marvellous beauty of this work of art 
can be appreciated. At other times it is lost in 
the gloom that prevails — a gloom made only the 
more perplexing by the glimmer of tapers 
twinkling in the profound shadow. 

Thus it looked on my first morning visit — 
grand and mysterious. On subsequent occasions, 
later in the day, seen under a play of prismatic 
light, the sombre effect was replaced by one of 
mellowed splendour. 

The morning services must necessarily lack 
light, and Mass, which I saw celebrated the fol- 
lowing day, though an imposing ceremonial, was 
not so effective pictorially as the " Office " in the 
afternoon. The service itself was rather disap- 



SEVILLE. 167 

pointing ; for the priests intoned in that odd, 
sharp, incisive style that I had heard before in 
Spain, and their performance reminded me too 
much ofa" buffo " song in an opera. 

But the tableau was effective as regarded colour. 
One ecclesiastic wore a handsome vestment of cloth 
of gold ; that of another was violet-hued ; some of 
the chorister boys wore scarlet, and the summer 
sun-rays came pouring in laden with rainbow tints, 
and glinted upon bright spots and burnished lines, 
revealing all their grace and beauty. 

Then censers were swung, and the pale vapour 
rose to float upward on the golden beams ; the 
notes of the organ swelled and sank with grand 
reverberations ; the richly-robed priests and aco- 
lytes moved past in stately procession. 

The spectacle was a fine one. Apart, how- 
ever, from the magnificence of the choir and the 
grandeur of the nave, there is a wilderness of loveli- 
ness, in which one might wander for many a day still 
unsatisfied, amongst the numerous chapels which 
surround the building. There are stained windows, 
tombs, paintings, carvings, and gems of art of every 
description, in lavish profusion ; and the Chapter- 



168 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

house, so elegant in form, so beautiful in its orna- 
mentation, will be a treat to any one of taste. 

In the Oapilla de San Augustin there is a 
coloured carving of the Yirgin by Montanes that 
is usually much admired. 

It seems presumptuous to differ from general 
opinion or to give only a qualified assent to an 
accepted verdict ; but, sweet and charming as the 
face undoubtedly is, it struck me as wanting an 
important characteristic of the countenance which 
it is intended to depict, and that it might be called 
too sweet. The face bears a pleased, contented look, 
such as any modest, happy maiden might have; 
but the depth and intensity of feeling which we 
may rightly attribute to the most honoured of 
women — the mother of the world's Saviour — is 
not there. 

It is true it is the youthful, the girl-mother, yet, 
even in those early days, would there be no fore- 
shadowing of future sorrows ? no earthly trembling 
mingled with the heavenly joy ? 

Amongst the paintings that would please many 
by whom its artistic merit might pass unnoticed, is 
the " Angel de la Guarda," by Murillo. 



SEVILLE. 169 

A young child, fresh, and innocent-looking, is 
stepping forward, as if to face life and its unknown 
difficulties ; while behind, bending slightly over 
him in a protecting attitude and tenderly holding 
his little hand, is his guardian angel. The latter 
is freely and gracefully drawn, so is the child ; 
while the colouring leaves nothing to be desired. 

This picture is, perhaps, one of the most satisfy- 
ing, both in sentiment and execution, of any of the 
works of that poetic-souled, truth-loving master. 

Besides these gems, there are other fine paint- 
ings to be studied, notably those in the Sacristia 
de los Calices, " St. Peter," by Herrera el Viejo, 
and " Our Saviour," by Eoelas. And in the Sa- 
cristia Mayor (a gorgeous place) is a wonderful 
"Descent from the Cross," by Pedro Campana 
— full of force and originality ; also some Zur- 
barans. 

But how describe pictures ? It is impossible, and 
the attempt useless, save that some kindred spirit, 
following in the writer's footsteps, may notice, and 
consequently enjoy, works thus mentioned, which 
might otherwise be passed in haste or not seen 
at all. It is like* an Exhibition catalogue, marked 



170 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

by a friend familiar with one's taste ; it may save 
time and trouble. 

Close to the cathedral is the Sagrario, the 
parish church, and it is worth visiting for the sake 
of the coloured carvings and statues by Roldan 
and Cornejo. These marvellous groups of painted 
sculpture are startlingly like life — and death. This 
style, of which one sees so much here, is considered 
mongrel — neither painting proper, nor pure sculp- 
ture, and it does not, therefore, claim the admira- 
tion due to legitimate art • still it is wonderfully 
effective. 

And now we proceed to mount the tower, the 
famed Giralda, so called from " que gira " (which 
turns round), in allusion to its vane. It is de- 
tached from the cathedral, though it has the 
effect, seen in the distance, of forming part of that 
fine pile. 

We found the ground-floor occupied by some 
families, who seemed in happy possession of nu- 
merous babies, all rolling about the floor in a state 
of unfettered nature ; and having obtained a certain 
key from the custodian, we ascended to the belfry. 
The ascent is peculiar : not by steps, but by a 



SEVILLE. 171 

broad, steep, bricked road. Thirty-five sloping 
pieces — or, to speak properly, inclined planes — 
conduct you to the summit of this wonderful erec- 
tion of the Moors, which is 50 feet square at the 
base and 350 feet high, and is one of the earliest 
examples of an observatory for astronomical pur- 
poses. With the ideas of comfort possessed by this 
refined people, it is scarcely strange, perhaps, that 
they should have so managed it that a walk to an 
elevation of 350 feet can be achieved without much 
fatigue — certainly none of the painful, treadmill 
weariness involved in climbing up steps ; whilst at 
every angle that is reached stone seats invite the 
visitor to rest awhile and look from the windows 
on the enchanting views. 

The prospect from the belfry is glorious, justi- 
fying the old proverb : — 

" Quien no vi6 a Sevilla 
No vio maravilla." 

Looking northwards, there are hills in the distance, 
pale pink and tender mauve ridges. Nearer, are 
tracts of brown and yellow land, scorched and hot- 
looking, almost burnt sienna in hue. Towns and 
villages dot the broad expanse, and the winding 



172 WORD-SKETCHES IN TEE SWEET SOUTH. 

Guadalquivir forms a welcome object of con- 
templation where every other feature in the scene 
speaks of extreme heat. Nearer still, and the city 
lies in dazzling whiteness at our feet. Churches 
upon churches, some grand enough for cathedrals, 
raise their domes and towers thickly above the 
masses of houses. Hospitals, too, barracks, and 
other public buildings, attract the eye. Looking 
eastward, there is a large erection, which the guide 
informs us is a cannon-foundry. To the south, 
another extensive range, which is a tobacco manu- 
factory ; here at times employment is given to 
5000 women and girls in cigar-making. That 
handsome red house further on, standing in its 
cool green gardens, is San Telmo, the residence of 
the Due de Montpensier. 

That circular place is — yes, there is no mis- 
taking that — the Bull-ring, or, to give it a prettier 
sounding name, the Plaza de Toros. Then, looking 
down quite beneath us, giddily, one sees the Court 
of Oranges, and the Alcazar, with its beautiful 
patios and fair pleasaunces ; the narrow streets, 
the broad spaces, and a great deal of private life 
going on on the flat house-tops. 



SEVILLE. 173 

And how a bit of scarlet " tells," even if it be 
but an old rag that produces the effect, against the 
blackness of the shadows ! for the shadows are very 
black where there are any. 

It is strange to look down on this scene of a 
smokeless city thus glittering in the sunshine, 
lying sleeping, as it were, and canopied by a sky 
in which there is no movement either of flitting 
cloud or gathering mist ; it is so difficult to divest 
oneself of the idea that it is not a painted 
panorama. 

But she is very beautiful, this queenly Seville, 
and the gleaming river girdles her, or seems to do 
so, making as it does just here, a wide sweep of its 
bright waters. 

And not only does the scene beneath, so fair to 
contemplate, give pleasure in this elevated spot : 
the eyry itself has its charms. Up here, a delicious 
breeze comes floating through the tower, whisper- 
ing round the great bells and breathing the fresh- 
ness of the distant hilltops whence it has come. 
Pure and cool, each breath you draw is like a 
draught of aerial nectar after the heated atmo- 
sphere in realms below. 



174 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

As you linger, troops of pigeons whose home 
you have invaded flit round and round, cooing 
in privileged freedom, their wings shining like 
burnished silver against the deep purple sky. 
It is, indeed, a pleasant retreat, this ancient 
tower. 

But it is already high noon, and we can stay no 
longer ; so, descending by the easy gradient, we 
fee the custodian, return the polite greetings of 
the mothers of all the babies, and smiling an in- 
terest in these latter (but not kissing any of them), 
pass out and cross over to the Alcazar, or old 
Moorish Palace, close by. 

This is the place to wander in dreamily. Here 
you seem carried back many centuries, as you 
stroll through these fairy halls, enjoying the 
silence which is only broken by your own footfall 
and the plash of the water in the fountains, and 
gazing in ever-increasing admiration on the ara- 
besques that adorn every portion of the walls. 
Where there is colouring, as in the Azulejo de- 
corations, great taste is shown in blending the 
hues ; where there is none, the effect of rich yet 
delicate lace is produced by the varied patterns, 



SEVILLE. 175 

mostly geometric. Lace manufacturers, I was in- 
formed, come to copy these exquisite specimens of 
Saracenic art to reproduce them in their lace. No 
wonder ! 

Then there is a peculiar ornament that has 
the effect of rough snow; an ingenious device 
for cheating one into coolness in a warm 
climate. 

Along the marble arcades and through the 
various courts — " upstairs and downstairs, and in 
my lady's chamber " — the same finished and fairy- 
like style of decoration prevails in this bijou palace, 
save where the Spaniard, some two centuries ago, 
made his alterations and untasteful additions, 
which, seen here and there, mar the harmony of 
the whole. 

A tragical story is told respecting one of the grand 
halls. In it Pedro the Cruel had his brother, who 
was then his guest, murdered, whilst he himself 
watched the perpetration of the infamous deed from 
a balcony that hangs high up on the lofty wall. 

But a pleasanter interest attaches to a small 
apartment upstairs, wherein, it is said, Ferdinand 
and Isabella received Columbus when he first sought 



176 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

their assistance to enable him to carry out his 
idea of seeking for a new world beyond the seas. 
Doubtless his heart beat high with hope — a hope, 
as it proved, to be "long deferred" — whilst he 
urged his apparently visionary scheme on the 
attention of the sovereigns. It is a tiny room, but 
three great spirits met in it on that occasion. 

Other historical associations cling to the Alcazar, 
but perhaps the deepest interest of all lies in pic- 
turing it in the hands of its original possessor, 
Prince Abdu-r-rahman Anna'seir Sidim- Allah, in 
days that to us seem dark, though they must in 
reality have been brilliantly light amid surround- 
ing ignorance. The Spanish Arabs attained to 
a point in certain sciences and arts as well as in 
literature that it required high intellectual gifts 
to reach; and they provided so largely for the 
spread of knowledge and mental development that 
they must have felt their responsibilities in the 
matter of education in a degree that will bear 
comparison with people of any era.* 

Nor was this civilization of theirs an ephemeral 
blaze, for it burnt steadily on for six centuries ; 

* See Note, p. 179. 



SEVILLE. 177 

and if architecture be any index to national taste, 
the graceful arches and slender pillars, the rich 
tracery, the airiness and elegance of design, and 
the exquisite harmony pervading the whole (when 
undisturbed by Spanish additions) speak of refine- 
ment and extreme culture. 

But we moderns borrow — nay filch from the 
generations of the past, and adopt their ideas as 
our own, with a contemptuous indifference as to 
the origin of those ideas. 

Some centuries hence perhaps the ancient 
English will occupy a similar place in the minds 
of the Polynesian " men of the day." 

Close to the Alcazar lives a leading photo- 
grapher, in a quaint little dwelling. He was out 
when I first called to see his views, and only an 
old woman was at home to open the door to 
customers. She was a small shrivelled thing, but 
looked picturesque and Yan Eyck-ish, moving 
about in the shadowed room, a handkerchief 
tied over her head, and keys jingling at her 
girdle. 

She knew very little about the articles for sale, 

N 



178 WORD-SKETCHES IN TEE SWEET SOUTH. 

but permitted me to turn over numerous folios as 
I pleased ; and the room being wonderfully cool, 
I sat some time with her and her cat, while I made 
selections from the photographs at leisure. " The 
Senor was in the country — his return uncertain 
— would the Senor a call another day ?" 

Where but in easy-going Spain would a " busi- 
ness " be left to take care of itself, and customers 
told to await the return of the proprietor from the 
country ? 

This was the case here ; and making my choice, 
with a promise to come back the next day to 
complete the purchase, we again sallied forth into 
the now fierce heat. 

The sun was sending down vertical rays, and 
carefully we crept under the awnings in the 
streets, and the narrow scrap of shadow cast by 
the broad eaves. But how to cross that scorching 
Plaza? One hesitated like a timid maiden ere 
she plunges into the sea, before making the bold 
venture; and when at length we faced the fire, 
were nearly frizzled. 

The streets were entirely deserted ; a quietude 
reigned that told of labour suspended, and the 



SEVILLE. 179 

universal indulgence in the siesta. On this 
occasion the state of things was infectious ; and, 
following the popular example, the English lady 
on reaching her hotel, was glad to seek repose in 
the twilight of her own room. 



Note. — " Whatever consequence a nation may derive, in its own age, 
from physical resources, its intellectual development will form the sub- 
ject of deepest interest to posterity. The most flourishing periods of both 
not unfrequently coincide. Thus, the reigns of Abderrahrnan the Third, 
Alhakem the Second, and the regency of Almanzar, embracing the 
latter half of the tenth century, during which the Spanish Arabs 
reached their highest political importance, may be regarded as the 
period of their highest civilization under the Omeyades ; although the 
impulse then given carried them forward to still further advances in 
the turbulent times which followed. This beneficent impulse is, above 
all, imputable to Alhakem. ... In his elegant tastes, appetite for 
knowledge, and munificent patronage, he may be compared with the 
best of the Medici. . . . 

" Above all, he was intent upon the acquisition of an extensive library. 
He invited illustrious foreigners to send him their works, and muni- 
ficently recompensed them. ... He employed agents in Egypt, Syria, 

N 2 






180 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

Irak, and Persia, for collecting and transcribing the rarest manuscripts ; 
and his vessels returned freighted with cargoes more precious than the 
spices of the East. 

..." An amazing number of writers swarmed over the Peninsula 
at this period. Casoir's multifarious catalogue bears ample testimony 
to the emulation with which not only men but women of the highest 
rank devoted themselves to letters ; the latter contending publicly for 
the prizes, not merely in eloquence and poetry, but in those recondite 
studies which have usually been reserved for the other sex. The pre- 
fects of the provinces, emulating their master, converted their courts 
into academies, and dispensed premiums to poets and philosophers. . . . 
Eighty free schools were opened in Cordova. The circle of letters and 
science were publicly expounded by professors, whose reputation for 
wisdom attracted not only the scholars of Christian Spain, but of 
France, Italy, Germany, and the British Isles. For this period of 
brilliant illumination with the Saracens corresponds precisely with that 
of the deepest barbarism in Europe ; when a library of three or four 
hundred volumes was a magnificent endowment for the richest monas- 
tery ; when scarcely a ' priest south of the Thames,' in the words of 
Alfred, ' could translate Latin into his mother tongue ;' and when not a 
single philosopher, according to Tiraboschi, was to be met with in 
Italy, save only the French pope, Sylvester the Second, who drew his 
knowledge from the school of the Spanish Arabs, and was esteemed a 
necromancer for his pains. 

" Such is the glowing picture presented to us of Arabian scholarship 
in the tenth and succeeding centuries." — Prescott, History of the 
of Ferdinand and Isabella, vol. i. p. 20. 



( 181 ) 



CHAPTER X. 

SEVILLE — continued. 

And now — off on a shopping expedition to the 
Calle de las Sierpes. 

This narrow street, or rather paved alley, 
contains some of the best shops in Seville ; and 
forms a pleasant lounge, being shaded by an 
awning drawn across between the housetops, thus 
permitting a free circulation of air beneath. 

Here one may stroll in comfort — only keeping 
clear of the laden donkeys— and find the amuse- 
ment so dear to ladies, of looking at pretty things 
in shop windows. 

Lace is one of the most attractive articles dis- 
played : — and then the fans ! 

Ah, fans indeed, yes. 

How could a Spaniard, male or female, exist 
without the aid of these implements ? 



182 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

It is flutter, flutter, flutter, wherever you go. 
Not only is every individual of the gentler sex 
armed with a fan, as part, and a very important 
part of her toilette, but the other, the rough half 
of creation, does not disdain to agitate the air on 
his own account. 

At dinner, gentlemen may be seen drawing 
their fans from their pockets and using them as 
the most natural thing to do possible ; and men of 
every grade down to railway porters, cool them- 
selves by this process in the intervals of their 
labours. In Seville Cathedral one day, I noticed 
two dirty little beggar children, bundles of rags, 
squatted on the marble pavement, sharing the 
use of an exceedingly respectable fan between 
them. 

Here, these useful and elegant toys may be 
obtained in great variety, from the huge weapon 
a yard long, which a " fast " majo would sport at 
a bull-fight, down to the fairy article intended for 
four-year-old fingers — at prices, too, beginning 
with the smallest coin of the realm, and mounting 
to large sums. 

A Spanish lady does not care what she spends 






SEVILLE. 183 

in this department of " dress ;" she prides herself 
on having a valuable collection, and the most 
precious specimens descend as heirlooms in 
families. 

From an early age girls are taught to " play " 
them gracefully ; and in doing this they generally 
succeed. 

With some ladies, a knack of producing a 
certain sharp click in the action is considered an 
accomplishment, and its attainment is therefore an 
object of ambition ; but the effect, especially when 
heard in church, or in a room full of people, all 
bent on making the same noise, is so trying to the 
nerves, that it would not be tolerated in English 
society, where quietude of movement is a deside- 
ratum. 

The shops next in interest are those for the sale 
of jewelry, chiefly Cordovan; those where the 
alforjas or Spanish saddle-bags are sold; the 
pottery shops, where classical-shaped jars of clay 
may be obtained ; and those for painted statuettes, 
illustrative of Spanish costumes. 

The shopkeepers appear to take life easily ; and 
you are consequently spared the trial of having to 



181 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

resist insinuating efforts on their part, to make 
you a purchaser of their goods. 

The proprietor sits comfortably in the coolest 
place he can find, and smokes at leisure; eyeing 
his customers with a philosophical glance that 
seems to say, that 

" They may come, and they may go, 
But I puff on for ever." 

Of course the employes take their cue from the 
master, and move about with languid indiffer- 
ence. 

M I want so-and-so, if you please." A single 
thing is brought. 

" Have you not others ?" 

" Does not the Senora like it ?" 

" You may have others I should like better." 

That one should have a choice does not enter 
into their calculations, or they are too indolent to 
indulge your taste. This is the rule, though it 
has, like every other, exceptions. 

The most accommodating suggestion made was 
at a music shop ; where, inquiring for some songs 
which proved not to be in stock, it was proposed 
that written copies should be procured. This is 



SEVILLE. 185 

very commonly done in Spain : music is sold in 
manuscript. 

Besides shops, there are cafes to be visited as 
you saunter along — at least there is strong tempta- 
tion to do so, for the climate is a thirsty one, and 
the iced drinks, sherbet and such compounds, 
which are so grateful, are understood here. 

Yes, live as the inhabitants do, and where they 
do, and even Seville in the dog-days is bearable. 
You see things and people too, more au naturel, 
the foreign element being almost nil at these times. 

"As far as I can ascertain, you are the only 
English traveller now in the place," the hotel 
commissionaire said to me ; and it was likely 
enough to be true. Certainly I saw no fellow- 
countrymen or women. 

At the table d'hote, Spanish gentlemen were 
the only guests, excepting on one occasion, when 
a lady of the same nationality was present. 

The evening is the time to see the life of the 
city. Towards sunset, the drowsy folks wake up, 
and if so inclined take the air. Desirous of seeing 
these human bats, I ordered a carriage to take me 
to the favourite resort of the beau monde of Anda- 



186 WORD-SKETCHES IN TEE SWEET SOUTH. 

lusia ; and the band of waiters having applied their 
energies to obtaining the most suitable vehicle 
for the occasion, a neat little open affair was 
soon at the door, and the order given to "Las 
Delicias." 

And very delicious it was, driving in those 
shadowy avenues, after the day's heat. There are 
several roads, bordered by side walks and shaded 
by trees, on a level spot alongside the river. This 
is the "Bois" or Hyde Park of Seville; and in 
spite of the season there was a fair attendance of 
company. 

The equipages generally were of a more showy 
description than those to which English taste 
gives its approval ; and the small, stout horses 
attached to them would not have excited the envy 
of a Belgravian dame. The lady occupants of the 
carriages all wore the mantilla and veil, disclosing 
their shining braids and coils of hair, and adding 
lustre to their large, swimming brown eyes ; while 
a rose peeped coquettishly from amongst the dark 
folds of the drapery, giving a picturesque effect to 
the costume. The inevitable fan was of course 
fluttered and flirted incessantly. 



SEVILLE. 187 

The gentlemen, very many of whom were on 
horseback, were lightly attired in white, or pale 
grey suits ; wore shoes as a rule, and broad- 
brimmed straw hats of considerable dimensions, 
which gave them the appearance of Brazilian 
planters. 

They caracoled on their wild little Barbs and 
sturdy Andalusians, in a business-like manner. 
Some, of the paterfamilias stamp, shared the com- 
forts of the family coach with wife and daughters ; 
but the younger men seemed to prefer equestrian 
exercise ; with the exception of one youthful dandy, 
who was evidently introducing the latest novelty, 
by driving a small English waggonette, with a 
team of four spirited animals ! 

Inside, sat a diminutive groom, wearing a white 
linen coat. 

There was much that was characteristic in the 
scene — much that was semi-tropical, both in the 
atmosphere and the people. 

To increase the impression there conveyed, the 
chicharra, or cicala — the noisy insect that makes 
itself heard from its leafy covert amongst the trees 
overhead — added its quota. This provoking little 



188 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

creature keeps up a perpetual movement of its 
wings, and this agitation produces a sound like the 
hissing of steam. Above, below, around you, is 
this constant whirring and hissing. It is only 
heard in extremely warm weather, and it makes 
you warmer to hear it. 

Such are the most striking features of Las Deli- 
cias ; and when the sun had gone down, leaving 
streaks of saffron and deep rose in the sky, to be 
reflected as in a burnished mirror on the Guadal- 
quivir, and throwing out the buildings on the 
opposite bank in richest ruby and purple tones 
against the effulgent background, the whole scene, 
as regarded both animate and inanimate nature, 
was one of glowing life and colour. 

Soon — so soon, that the brightness had scarcely 
had time apparently to fade — it was dark, and ob- 
jects looked all blotted and blurred in the gloom. 
But in a few minutes a new light broke upon the 
moving panorama. The moon rose in her ripe, 
mellow, August splendour, illumining the earth 
softly ; flowers breathed forth their fragrance de- 
liciously, and merry laughter rang out from lovely 
ladies and gay caballeros, all lingering to enjoy the 






SEVILLE. 189 

dewy freshness of the night- wind — perhaps ex- 
change love-sighs under its influence. 

As I drove home, it was evident that other 
classes of society were also abroad, amusing them- 
selves after their own fashion. The plazas were 
much frequented, sellers of ices busy, and the tink- 
ling of guitars and rattle of castanets sounded 
cheerful — more so than vocal efforts ever do in 
this part of the world, where the Moorish taste 
still abides in the musical breathings of the popu- 
lace. They improvise — singing any doggrel that 
the incidents of the moment may suggest, in a 
monotonous chant, which is only varied by a 
peculiar trill occasionally, introducing a semitone ; 
and the fall is usually on a minor note. 

When the singer's voice is good, it has a wild, 
rather touching effect ; though it is sad, and one 
soon wearies of its sameness : but as a rule, the 
voices are harsh, and the constant repetition of one 
cadence is simply unpleasing. 

Yery often, the subject of these strains is reli- 
gious. 

The writer heard a young muleteer, at Gibraltar, 
one day, varying his adjurations to his mules, and 



190 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH, 

objurgations of their doings, with scraps of song : 
when a friend present, who knew Spanish, laugh- 
ingly said — 

" Would you like to hear the rubbish he is 
singing ? A rough translation would be — 

" The Virgin went from door to door 
Begging for pen, ink, and paper. 
And what did she require it for ? 
To write to her husband— her dear husband, 
Saint Joseph." 

The above specimen was not, however, im- 
promptu ; but, I fancy, formed part of a Christmas 
carol. 

Lounging about in the Calle de las Sierpes, and 
constantly turning in at all hours to the Cathedral, 
so time slips by in Seville to a stranger. That 
beautiful cathedral! To me it seems like a fine 
poem — grand in its subject-matter, musical in its 
rhythm, and abounding in sparkling imagery. 

But there are other things to see in this Southern 
capital ; and the admirer of the Spanish school of 
painting, if he cannot go the round of all the 
churches — and there are some twenty to visit — 
will yet not neglect the principal collections. 



SEVILLE. 191 

The chief of these is the Museum, which was 
formerly a convent. You pass through its clois- 
ters, and see its patio ; and in what was the church, 
the principal works are hung. 

Murillo shines resplendent here. His own pet 
production, " St. Thomas de Villeneuve distributing 
alms," is a marvellous painting ; two others — " St. 
Anthony and the Infant Saviour " (one of these is 
exquisitely lovely), and another of his, li San Fran- 
cisco embracing his Crucified Lord" — will each 
demand long study. But perhaps it is the " St. 
Felix de Cantilicia" that is most calculated to 
enthral and fascinate. 

Nothing can be conceived more tender in touch, 
more graceful in lines, and subtle in execution, 
than this charming picture. Of this, Ford tells us 
that the Spaniards say, it was painted "con leche 
y sangre " — with milk and blood. 

Truly it is a masterpiece. 

Zurbaran is also largely represented. His most 
striking picture is that of " St. Hugo in his Refec- 
tory, with several Carthusian Monks." It is a 
difficult subject, but admirably treated, taking into 
consideration the awkward positions and the intrac- 



192 WOBD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

table dress of the good fathers; whilst the heads 
of these friars are life itself — full of expression. 

" San Bruno in audience of Pope Urban II." is 
a fine painting ; and the "Apotheosis of St. Thomas 
Aquinas," considered to be his chef-d'oeuvre, may 
here be admired and studied. 

In the Sculpture Saloon, the most noticeable 
works are a " San Greronimo," in terra cotta, by 
Torrigiano, bold and vigorous in modelling, and 
some by Montanes, that are interesting. 

Next in importance to this collection, in which 
though choice is small, only numbering about 260 
paintings, is that in the church attached to La 
Caridad, an almshouse for old men. 

A sister of charity , neat and quiet, admitted us ; 
and as it was the hour when the sisters were at 
prayers, prostrated before a shrine, I waited till 
their devotions were over before making a 
detailed inspection of the building ; and mean- 
while watched these holy women musingly. 

As they filed past, I could see that many had 
sweet, placid faces. The active duties of their 
saintly life doubtless keep them from stagnating, 
as, when existence is passed in morbid seclusion, 



SEVILLE. 193 

must necessarily happen. A fresh, humanising 
influence comes to them, like a breeze from the 
green country, in fulfilling their busy offices of 
charity ; and to those who have attained the calm 
heights of perfect self-abnegation, and who can 
look onward without repining to the path before 
them, and its peaceful end — such a life as theirs 
may be happier than we imagine it to be. 

The interior of the church is overpowering in 
its excess of heavy ornament ; and though at first 
sight imposing, its bad taste is too soon obser- 
vable. 

Here are more Murillos. Two are of immense 
size, illustrative respectively of the " Miracle of 
the Loaves," and of " Moses striking the Rock" — 
the latter is grand in effect; but some of the 
smaller ones, especially an " Infant Saviour " and 
" St. John," are gems. 

The Eetablo (reredos it would be called with us) 
is another of the wonderful works of Pedro Roldan 
— those groups of carved and coloured figures in 
the execution of which he so excelled : and this is 
pronounced his chef-d'ceuvre — it is a " Descent 
from the Cross." Then there are two other paint- 

o 



194 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

ings, in another part of the building, which 
attracted my attention : but unfortunately I have 
forgotten the names of the artists. One was a most 
revolting subject — a dead, decomposed body. Of 
this picture I was told that Murillo, while gazing 
at it, exclaimed, with a gesture of disgust, that 
" he could smell it " — so powerful is the delineation, 
so accurate the unpleasant details. 

The other contained a similar idea to the 
" Angel de la G-uarda," only, in this instance, it is 
a full-grown saint — St. George, I think — and he is 
engaged in conflict. 

Unseen by him, an angel is supporting him, 
and directing his hands. The spectator draws the 
moral. 

He also, if in a moralising mood, listens to the 
story of the re-builder of the edifice, the gay De 
Lara, and notes the humble epitaph he chose in 
his penitent days — 

" Cenizas del peor hombre que ha habido en el mundo." 

And now, with a gratuity, or gift to the gentle 
sister, we leave the quiet church, and find our- 
selves passing through the bustling Custom-house 
adjoining, and going off on a pilgrimage of a very 



SEVILLE. 195 

different kind to any of the foregoing — viz. to see 
the reputed house of the original Figaro. Of 
course, one tries to accept the assurance that it 
was the veritable abode of the veritable man ; and 
with scenes from II Barbiere recurring to mind, 
and airs from it floating in memory, one passes on 
amongst the picturesque groups of idle, sunshine- 
loving people, and one thinks how Time has 
dawdled in his dealings with this behind-the- world 
peninsula — so much here remaining just as it was 
centuries ago. 

But there is one symptom of advancement that 
is gratifying — monks have disappeared from the 
land. We look in vain for the figures with shaven 
crown, girdled robe, and sandalled feet, that 
" came in " so effectively in former " Yiews in 
Spain." 

But if we may regret their absence in an artistic 
sense, in every other one may congratulate the 
country; while hoping that State education, the 
spread of knowledge, and an interest universally 
felt in matters of science, art, and literature, may 
in the future render the existence of a class of men 
who did posterity such good service in the dark 

o 2 



196 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

ages, unnecessary in the present days of enlighten- 
ment. 

Very good photographic likenesses are taken in 
Seville, owing, perhaps, to the, clearness of the 
atmosphere. The writer availed herself of the 
opportunity afforded of her being there to have 
one done ; and, sitting in a glass house at a tem- 
perature of 120°, was depicted — a limp, parboiled 
object, in the last agonies of heat. 

This led to a rather amusing incident, which, as 
it in a measure illustrates the peculiarities of the 
people, may be here recorded. 

Head-weary with sight-seeing, when evening 
came, I had unrolled my hair, and let it all hang 
down, mane-like, as I sat writing in my room. 

There came a tap at the door, and a bevy of 
waiters introduced the photographer, followed by 
the landlord of the hotel (who could speak French) 
to "interpret." 

The " artist " had on speculation coloured one 
of the portraits, and, proud of the achievement, 
had been exhibiting it to the people of the house. 

Spaniards are inquisitive as children, and have 



SEVILLE. 197 

much of their simplicity ; so, business being slack, 
this likeness was a matter of interest in the 
establishment ! 

It was pronounced good by mine host. "But 
what a pity the chevelure had not been painted ! 
So — just as mademoiselle then had it !" 

The gentle gravity and earnestness of the man 
precluded the possibility of one's being offended, 
and I could only laugh heartily as I explained 
that the degage style of coiffure was only adopted 
for my own comfort when alone — that English 
gentlewomen had their pictures taken in the style 
most easily recognisable by their friends, and not 
for "effect." 

He shook his head, and still pleaded the claims 
of the chevelure. 

The fact is, that with these Andalusians fair 
hair is at a premium ; for they see the lustrously 
beautiful raven tresses on every head, and the 
spun-sugar variety is consequently pleasing. But 
when would such a homely exhibition of interest 
in a guest's likeness take place at a hotel in 
England ? — " Cosas de Espana !" * 

* " Things in Spain " : a saying. 



( 193 ) 



CHAPTER XI. 

COKDOVA. 

And now, with most pleasant recollections of 
sunny Seville, I bade it "adieu," and took the 
train for Cordova. 

A stretch of dusty-looking land lay on either 
side the first part of the way, flat and brown, 
relieved by the lilac tints of the distant hills, and 
patches of plantation — a row of oleanders in 
blossom, feathery canes, or olives. These latter 
were protected by red clay pots, like chimney-pots ; 
just as I have seen in Northern France and 
Belgium wheat-sheaves guarded from injury by 
little thatched roofs. 

The town of Carmona, so Moorish as it is, must 
be well worth visiting, and it is commandingly 
placed on a hill ; so is Almodavar. Both these 
places are picturesque in appearance; and some 



COEDOVA. 199 

of the smaller stations looked so sketchable as to 
tempt me to transfer them to a pocket-block, while 
the train lingered about the spot. The smart 
peasant, too, in his jacket of green or brown 
velvet, with its silver buttons, seemed posed for 
his picture. The women disfigure themselves by 
wearing a coloured silk or cotton handkerchief 
(from Manchester) over the head, and tied under 
the chin ; and although the artistic effect is better 
than a bonnet would be, the style is very trying 
to the face. But the bourgeois classes still cling 
to the graceful mantilla, than which nothing can 
be more becoming. The heavy folds of rich black 
silk which drape the shoulders and bust of that 
portly duenna, give her dignity, and conceal the 
superabundance of her form ; whilst the trans- 
parent gauze or lace that floats from the shining 
coils of her daughter's head softens the lines of the 
slight girlish figure, and adds infinitely to her 
attractions. Black lace mittens are worn, if any- 
thing is, on the hands, and the universal fan 
serves for shading the eyes from the sun, as well 
as producing a mimic breeze. The top of the head 
is left unprotected, and how the women bear the 



200 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

frizzling of brain that this must cause when 
exposed to the blazing sun is a marvel ; nor do 
they in cold weather wear any extra head- 
covering. 

At Cordova station, for the first time since 
landing at Cadiz, there were English people to be 
seen ; and they were bound like myself, for the 
clean, comfortable " Fonda Suiza." Conversation 
at the table d'hote led to an invitation from them 
to spend the evening in their room — an invite 
which I gladly accepted. At starting there was 
the awkward fact that neither of us knew the 
other's name, but cosmopolites soon get over such 
little difficulties, and generally, as in this case, 
discover that there are places or persons in whom 
both are interested. 

My entertainers, though English by birth, had 
lived chiefly in South America, and when in 
Europe seemed to be most at home in Paris. 

Papa, mamma, and daughter were each bright 
and pleasant in their respective ways, and all most 
kind to their stranger guest ; so an hour or two 
passed very agreeably in talking upon art and 
kindred matters. It was interesting to hear that 



COBB OVA. 201 

Mr. ■ had known Ford, the late accom- 
plished author to whom tourists in Spain owe so 
much, in giving to a guide-book,* by its graphic 
delineations, play of humour and fancy, and 
graceful diction, a fascination that few such works 
possess. This authority informs us of Cordova 
" that it was called by the Carthaginians ' the gem 
of the South ;' " and that ages afterwards under 
the Moors, it became the Athens of the West ; 
and that " the wealth, luxury, and refinement 
of this period in the history of Cordova reads as 
if it were an Aladdin tale." 

The Mosque — as people still designate the 
Cathedral — dates from a.d. 786, and ranked third 
of mosques. Though prepared for seeing some- 
thing unique, I must confess to feeling staggered 
on first entering the building. 

The lofty wall that surrounds it hides much of 
the exterior, and it is not until you find yourself 
in the inside that you can form any idea at all 
of the place. 

You step in, and receive the impression that 
you are in the centre of a wood — a petrified wood ! 

* Murray's 'Handbook to Spain,' in two parts. 



202 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

Apparently low-roofed (from its amazing width), 
with a perfect forest of pillars, not all of uniform 
size and shape, but varying slightly, and of dif- 
ferent materials, viz., porphyry, marble, jasper, 
&c, with multitudinous arches crossing and re- 
crossing each other at various angles, the effect 
produced is extraordinary. It can only be com- 
pared, as above, to a petrified wood, in whose dim 
labyrinths one wanders on in perplexity, with an 
old-world feeling creeping over one that seems to 
threaten fossilization for oneself. 

It is a modification of the Gothic idea — that of 
the grove ; but it is Moorish entirely,* and " this 
specimen offers the finest type in Europe of the 
true temple of Islam." 

It gives you a suffocating sensation ; though 
the area it covers is most extensive — 394 feet by 
356. The height is only 35 feet. Of the pillars 
there were originally 1200 ; now there are but 
1096. 

" Of course," said Mr. to me after my 

visit, "you became a Mussulman ?" (or woman ?). 

" The thing to do " is to walk seven times round 
the Ceca or Moslem Holy of Holies. The perform- 



CORDOVA. 203 

ance of this act in former times was equivalent to a 
pilgrimage to Mecca. The Ceca is the most exquisite 
little erection, a fairy-like structure covered on the 
outside with gorgeous mosaics, and in the inside 
lined with marble chiselled into a lovely lacework 
arabesque pattern ; while the ceiling of this sanctum 
sanctorum is of marble formed into one large 
shell. To show this beautiful piece of workman- 
ship the guide lighted a torch — a practice which 
constantly repeated as it is, must, one would 
think, be seriously detrimental to the marble as 
regards its whiteness, and to the delicate tracery. 
It looked sadly grimy ; but perhaps a good 
scrubbing would restore it to its pristine purity. 

The choir is comparatively modern, dating from 
1523, and although out of keeping with the rest 
of the building, is in itself handsome. The retablo 
and stalls are of richly carved wood, and there are 
some fine old tombs to be seen. 

The other sights of interest in Cordova are the 
Eoman bridge, the building standing near it, which 
was formerly used by the Inquisition, and which 
was erected on the remains of the castle of 
Roderick the last of the Goths, and the large 



204 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

quaint-looking Plaza, in the centre of which 
innumerable martyrs perished at the stake. 

"Burnt at Cordova!" How familiarly the 
words came to mind, as notifying the ending of 
many a brave life — the finale of many a touching 
story told of those who formed " the noble army 
of martyrs." 

I shuddered involuntarily as I looked round — 
perhaps on the identical objects that met the 
gaze of agonized thousands ; for the houses with 
their picturesque wooden balconies look old 
enough to have witnessed the frightful, fiendish 
scenes that were enacted in their midst. Imagina- 
tion conjures up these sights of horror — sees the 
flaming pile, the excited multitude, the darkened 
sky, the tortured victims — appalling, sickening 
sights they must have been. If angels hovered 
near to receive the souls of these just ones, surely 
devilry nevertheless was rampant then ! 

Yet these deeds that fouled the name of religion 
were wrought, not in barbarous times, but in an 
age of enlightenment ; in days when art and belles- 
lettres flourished ; and were perpetrated by men of 
cultivation, refinement, and Christian piety (?). 



COED OVA. 205 

Will the demon of persecution ever be let loose 
upon this earth again, and savagery of spirit 
spring up with strong rebound, after the gentle- 
ness of modern ages ? 

Who can tell ? 

It is said that " History repeats itself." Some 
twenty years ago, when the " Apostles of Peace," 
Messrs. Cob den and Bright, preached a coming 
millennium — when swords were to be turned into 
ploughshares, they little dreamt that those twenty 
years ahead of them were to see wars carried on 
on a more gigantic scale than the world had ever 
seen, and such torrents of blood rained on the 
soil that humanity shrinks from the remem- 
brance. 

When, too, the last poor old hag was burnt 
in England for witchcraft, who would have 
imagined that, in years long after, the childish 
absurdity of table-turning would meet with tolera- 
tion, much less encouragement, in educated 
circles ? 

Such facts send one back to a very old autho- 
rity, and incline one to repeat the wise man's 
words : " The thing that hath been, it is that 



206 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

which shall be ; and that which is done is that 
which shall be done ; and there is no new thing 
under the sun." 

The streets of Cordova are for the most part 
narrow, and the city looks half asleep. It may 
not, however, have looked much more lively in its 
palmiest days, when it contained a million inha- 
bitants, as the houses, being in the Oriental style, 
present only blank walls to the public, or else 
windows with closely barred rejas before them; 
and all the decoration is reserved for the interior 
of the tenement and its luxurious patio. 

A great leather trade used to be carried on here 
in past times, the name " cordwain " being derived 
from the place ; but at present ornaments in gold 
and silver seem to be its specialite. 

I visited some of the principal shops for these 
articles, but saw none that took my fancy. They 
are chiefly of filigree, but exceedingly coarse and 
rough in workmanship, not bearing comparison in 
point of taste with the delicate Maltese or Indian 
productions of the same kind. Another style is 
massive and heavy, and all are showy, thus suiting 



CORDOVA. ■ 207 

the dark-eyed Andalusian belle when arrayed for 
a fiesta. 

Wending one's way through the narrow alle} 7 s 
one runs the risk, as at Seville, of being perpetually 
knocked down by laden donkeys. 

Splendid animals they are — large, and milk- 
white, with gay trappings, in which a bit of 
scarlet or some bright-coloured fringe is very 
effective. It must be the Paradise of asses, judging 
by their size and condition. 

Amongst the human objects of interest most 
noticeable were some hermits from u Yal Paraiso," 
clad in a brown serge garment, girdled with a 
cord, and wearing sandals — like monks, in fact. 
The hermitage is only about a mile and a half from 
the town, and the recluses are allowed to come in, 
two together, to u do their shopping." 

They " looked natural " — identified, as they are 
in our minds with a Spanish city ; but they are 
the only approach to monastic individuals to be 
seen in the country now-a-days. 

Tant mieux ! 

A military band played for the gratification of 
the public one evening. 



208 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

It was audible from the hotel, and was a very 
fair band ; but the company who doubtless were 
assembled to gossip to its strains, and enjoy the 
popular Malaguenas that were performed, I did 
not join. 



( 209 ) 



CHAPTER XII. 

JOUKNEY TO GRANADA. 

The next day, after revisiting the Mezquita, and 
the ruins of the Moorish mills, and getting some 
sketches by the river, I turned my face towards 
Granada. 

A strange elation I felt at the thought of so 
soon beholding a spot, round which Romance, 
more even than History, has thrown a halo of 
weird and peculiar interest, amounting to en- 
chantment. 

Would those halls of fabled beauty yield only 
disappointment ? 

Would this realization of a long-cherished dream 
be but another of life's prosaic awakenings ? 

The train for Bobadilla left at two p.m., and in 
sixteen hours I might hope to be at Granada. 
The thought was exciting. 

p 



210 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

The other occupants of the carriage were some 
Spanish gentlemen, dressed in the coolest and 
lightest of materials. 

They puffed, and they puffed; alternately at 
the heat, exclaiming at its intensity with gestures 
of suffering, — and at their huge cigars ; they drank 
copious draughts of cold water at every station, 
and fanned themselves assiduously. 

A young priest of quiet demeanour, who 
indulged in none of these excesses, was another 
traveller ; and accompanying him, was a very 
ladylike girl, evidently his sister. 

She formed a pleasant subject of contemplation 
as a vis-a-vis ; for she was a good illustration of 
high-class Iberian beauty. 

Her transparent skin, well-chiselled features, 
and liquid hazel eyes were lovely ; and there was 
in her face a look of refinement that is not an 
ordinary characteristic amongst her country- 
women. She wore a black mantilla and veil, 
which further enhanced her charms, and altogether 
was " like a picture." 

The country on this line, undulates plea- 
santly ; and the sunny slopes of Montilla are 



JOURNEY TO GRANADA. 211 

suggestive of what they are, — wine-producing 
localities. 

Here, and at Aguilar, are palaces and estates 
belonging to the Duke of Medina Celi ; but no 
views of any great interest present themselves, 
and it is welcome news when you hear that Boba- 
dilla is reached, where you change trains. 

Here, dinner was procurable. The refreshment 
room was a tolerably-sized building or shed, with 
several tables spread across it, well covered with 
edibles, steaming soup, &c. ; but the place was 
not boarded, and the dusty earth with its various 
accumulations, was the floor. 

A civil young waiter made lucky guesses at the 
tastes of the lady who was alone, and in spite of 
the hubbub and confusion, an eatable repast was 
obtained, with a glass of Montilla. 

On entering the train for Archidona, two young 
men came into the same carriage with me ; and 
as I asked — or rather strove to ask — a question 
of an official, one of the new-comers immediately 
solved the difficulty in excellent English. 

The speaker was a Spaniard, but those few 
words were indeed choicest Saxon at that moment. 



212 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

And satisfactory it was to ascertain that these 
gentlemen were going on all the way to 
Granada, and that they seemed as pleased at 
thinking they could be of use to me as I was 
at having the prospect of their services. 

A polite inquiry was made, rare indeed in 
Spain on such a subject, whether I would object to 
their smoking. 

" Oh, no ; I beg you will smoke," was the 
answer. 

True, that the writer had been half fainting 
from the clouds puffed by those six warm men 
during the journey from Cordova ; but, stand in 
the way of these kindly young fellows' enjoyment 
— impossible. So, edging up closer to the open 
window, I prepared to be a martyr. 

However, neither of these matched the Cor- 
dovan travellers ; cigarettes, made as required, 
served on this occasion ; and a whiff now and then 
of a mild nature, was not objectionable. 

Thus gratified, my companions chatted agree- 
ably; while the sun sinking lower in the west, 
sent slanting rays of gold across the meadows and 
low, green, billowy hills of this fertile land ; 



JOURNEY TO GRANADA. 213 

and we sped on our way peacefully and plea- 
santly. 

By-and-by we noticed that the train slackened 
speed, and proceeded very slowly ; stopped, crept 
on again, at last drew up altogether : yet there 
was no station near. 

What could it be ? 

Now, just then, brigands were the fashion. 
They were the bugbear that had prevented many 
a planned ride and pleasurable excursion from 
being carried out from the Rock ; and had in this 
way seriously interfered with my enjoyment 
already. A notification had lately been issued to 
officers of the garrison, that if they ventured into 
Spain, they must do so on their own responsibility. 
Diligences were advertised in the local papers with 
the assuring but not alluring foot-note appended, 
that a military escort would accompany each 
vehicle, and that passengers consequently need 
have no fear of brigands. 

Trains, too, had been stopped in Andalusia by 
these gentry. Were they the cause of the present 
detention ? 

If so, the " unprotected female " traveller had 



214 WORD-SKETCHES IN TEE SWEET SOUTH. 

got herself into a terrible scrape ; and " serve her 
right" would be the verdict given by friends at 
home, and by numerous juries of British ladies 
sitting in calm security by domestic hearths in 
"Merrie England." 

The idea was not a pleasant one. (The 
brigands, not the verdict.) 

Heads were out of every carriage window now, 
and there was a murmur of many voices ; while 
three individuals, grand in cocked hats and 
coats with silver lace, went past with an air of 
importance. 

a What is the matter ? Do tell me," I asked in 
trepidation of my. English-speaking vis-a-vis, who 
was looking out of the window. 

" An accident has happened," was his reply, — 
" but not to us. A man has fallen from a bridge, 
and is supposed to be killed, and we have brought 
the guardias civiles to inquire into the matter." 
The uncertainty as to the exact locality where the 
sad occurrence had taken place was the reason of 
our proceeding so slowly. 

This explanation was given as we were crossing 
the Gruadaljorce, a full-flowing river bordered by 



JOURNEY TO GRAN ABA. 215 

oleander bushes ; flat meadow land stretched away 
to the right, where might be seen a conical-shaped 
hill, with a straggling village at its base, — a 
pastoral, tranquil picture. 

" There, — there he is ! " suddenly exclaimed my 
companion ; and involuntarily following the 
direction of his eyes and pointed finger, I was 
gazing, ere I was aware of it, on the face of the 
dead. 

Down in the field just below us as we reached 
the end of the bridge, lay the body of a young 
man in peasant's dress, — laici upon a large square 
pillow, gaily striped with red. How such small 
details strike us, even in the most awful moments ! 

One glance at that upturned face, so ghastly 
in its ashen hue, told too plainly that life had 
departed. Thank God it wore a placid ex- 
pression. 

" Yes, he is dead/' was remarked quietly. 

Poor fellow ! 

There was not much excitement, and after some 
further delay, the journey was resumed. 

The sun had sunk now, the gilding on the 
landscape was dulled, all was russet brown, and 



216 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

the hour was just one when Melancholy has her 
reign. 

Weary in body, and saddened by the scene I 
had just witnessed, I leaned back. in the carriage, 
experiencing that sort of feeling which amongst 
women is generally relieved by having " a good 
cry ; " but many hours of journeying were in 
prospect, the weariest and worst, — how rouse 
mys(. If from this depression ? 

My lively companions kindly did ■ it for me. 
Dismissing the painful incident from conversation, 
they pointed out the different objects of interest as 
we passed them. The town of Antequera is an 
important one, and picturesquely situated. " Much 
money is made there," was an observation 
respecting this place ; and probably now that the 
resources of this rich country are becoming better 
appreciated, through English and American 
enterprise, the sons of the soil may do their part 
in assisting in the development of these re- 
sources. 

The " Lovers' Eock " is a striking feature in 
the landscape for many miles ; and as it rises in 
solitary grandeur from the plain, it can be well 



JOURNEY TO GRANADA. 217 

seen from every point of view. From some 
points, it is not unlike the Rock of Gibraltar. 

Did I know the legend concerning this hill — 
the Penon cle los Enamorados ? asked my fellow- 
travellers ; how the cruel Moorish papa would not 
let his daughter marry the Christian slave, and 
how the two silly young people determined to 
destroy themselves ; and they jumped from there, — 
you see ? — that point ? 

By-and-by, one of the gentlemen began singing 
sotto voce, and his friend as softly chimed in a 
second. 

The voices were unusually good, the manage- 
ment of them artistic, and the " audience " 
expressed approbation and requested an encore. 

" Well,* what will the Senora like ? " 

" Name the Opera, and we will give you any 
songs from it you may wish to hear." 

Duets and solos now followed each other as 
rapidly as the " audience " called for them ; and 
a real treat she had, in hearing her favourite 
morceaux from ' Don Giovanni ' and * Faust ' thus 
interpreted ; for she was very soon driven to the 
conclusion that she was listening to professional 



218 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

singers of no mean standing. Gentlemen, how- 
ever, they were, unmistakably ; for in Spain, as 
in Italy, young men of good family do not 
mind adopting the profession of a singer ; 
though they usually take a nom de guerre in 
doing so, and reserve their patronymic for private 
life. 

It was quite dark when we reached Archidona, 
where the great lumbering diligence, with a 
team of ten mules, was awaiting the arrival of 
the train. 

Anxiously I watched the passengers as they 
gathered round the vehicle, determining in my 
own mind to take a place if possible, in the com- 
partment with any other women there might be 
going. Alas, not a petticoat was to be seen ! I 
was the only woman, and all the other passengers 
were men. 

In this case, it would have been natural to 
prefer the companions of the past journey to 
untried ones ; but unfortunately for me they had 
taken places on the outside, and as the inside was 
so much preferable for a lady, it seemed best that 
I should seat myself in the front compartment, 



JOURNEY TO GRANADA. 219 

or " berlina" the French coupe, which just then 
was empty. 

" Well, very probably you will have it all to 
yourself," said one of my new friends as he helped 
me in, " and we are just above you, if you require 
our services." 

But no such luck as solitude for me. Just at 
starting, a big man in a white linen coat, bundled 
himself in, with a good deal of hard breathing, 
and appeared inclined to spread himself over two 
seats, instead of contenting himself with his 
corner ; but the judicious placing of a small but 
well-crammed bag, and a hard sketch-book, kept 
the third place, the one between us, free. 

A remark which he made in Spanish, not 
eliciting a response in that tongue, awakened his 
curiosity, and several fusees were struck in suc- 
cession, ostensibly to light his gigantic cigar, but 
really for the purpose of seeing what sort of 
person this " foreigner " was. 

Then ensued a string of questioning, which of 
course the lady who shook her head and could 
not speak Spanish might be supposed not to 
understand. 



220 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

" Where was I going ? With whom was I 
travelling ? Was I married ? Had I a husband 
— marito — esjjoso " (emphatically) " un hombre ? " 
and to assist my comprehension he gave his chest 
a vigorous blow. 

The inquisitiveness of the man might have been 
amusing at any other time, but just then it was 
decidedly objectionable ; and it was rather a relief 
when the diligence stopped for a few minutes, and 
one of my friends on the top descended from his 
perch, and looking in, asked me cheerily, in 
English, " How I was getting on ?" This further 
whetted the curiosity of my obese companion, who 
now transferred his interrogatories to the gentle- 
man. 

Ah ! who was the Senora ? The Senor was 
her husband ? No ! Then he was her intended 
(triumphantly). 

The lady under discussion felt very thankful 
that she was by both parties presumed to be 
ignorant of the language they were speaking ; but 
the interest shown by the outside traveller had a 
good effect on the inside one ; gradually he lapsed 
into silence, and at length his inquiring mind was 



JOURNEY TO GBANABA. 221 

hushed in sleep. Mind only, however ; for how 
he snored ! The creature ! 

Meanwhile the journey was going on. Starting 
the ten mules, had been accomplished with an 
amount of swearing, yelling, and lashing, frightful 
to hear ; and once off, they had to be kept up to 
their work by the same means. Along the 
mountain side — dimly seen by the light of stars, 
— down in the valleys, through the torrent's bed, 
up the steep hills, away we went ; now, like a 
ship at sea, we plunged into a deep hollow, to 
rise with a tremendous tug and strain in answer to 
the fierce scourging bestowed upon the luckless 
brutes that dragged us behind them ; now 
trundling on over a level piece ; rattling, shaking, 
swaying to and fro, and threatening at sharp 
turnings to topple right over ; then — da capo, 
plunge again. 

French diligence experiences are unpleasant 
enough; but there, the bonny, stout little horses 
respond more readily to the appeals made to them, 
and " Allez — allez, mon petit gris !' 5 has rather an 
amiable sound. But whether the mules are more 
difficult to drive, or that Spaniards are less patient 



222 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

with their team, there certainly is infinitely more 
fuss made by the latter in driving. There is, in 
addition to the coachman, an imp who sits beside 
him, or clings on wherever he can, and jumps up 
and down perpetually, whose sole duty seems to be 
to flagellate ; and this he does with apparently 
right good will. The awful blows that some of 
the poor animals received seemed severe enough to 
break their bones, for the stick as well as the lash 
was used with all force. 

It went very much against the grain with me 
to bestow the customary douceur, at parting, upon 
this young savage ; but he was only fulfilling the 
task imposed upon him; and low-class Spaniards, 
as a rule, appear incapable of feeling for the dumb 
creation — a fact traceable perhaps in large measure 
to the popular amusement, the bull-fight ; to 
which, from earliest infancy, they are accustomed. 

Thus, amidst discordant noises of a most irritat- 
ing kind, and the more harmonious jingling of 
the mule-bells, our great machine rolled on; and 
every mile added to the bruises one received, and 
the uncomfortable sensations caused by the rough 
jolting and jarring. Nor was this all as concerned 



JOURNEY TO GRAN AT) A. 223 

myself; for, strive as I would, I could not quite 
get rid of the apprehension that would crop up 
occasionally, of an encounter with those pests of 
the country — brigands. 

The night was pitchy dark now — no moon, 
scarcely a star visible ; and nothing was to be 
distinguished of the land through which we were 
passing. Mountains might tower above us, 
ravines yawn below : but we saw them not, only 
felt the ascents and descents, and knew when a 
lofty summit was attained, or we were travers- 
ing the high plateaux, by the chilliness of the 
air. 

Wild, desolate districts they are, those elevated 
regions. Now and then there would be an 
unaccountable stoppage ; when the dead silence 
that reigned around made one strain one's ears 
only the more keenly to catch any sound that 
might be explanatory of the detention. Once my 
heart beat — thumped. It was on the occasion of 
a halt for which there seemed no reason ; when 
some men on horseback appeared and spoke to the 
Mayoral or Conductor. 

They were only, however, the Guardias Civiles. 



224 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

An immense relief it was to hear that they were 
our guardians. 

But in spite of these nervous tremors, and 
the physical discomfort of sitting cramped up in a 
hard, straight-backed vehicle, full of jagged pieces 
of broken iron, not to speak of the shaking and 
bruising accompaniment, I yet felt a strange 
exhilaration in being thus recklessly borne on over 
hill and dale in darkness, and, in some respects, 
alone. 

Something of the feeling was excited that you 
experience, when, mounted on a fresh horse, you 
reach some breezy down; and the creature you 
are riding pawing impatiently the ground, snort- 
ing, and champing the bit, you yield to his mood 
— give him his head, and are off — off on a fearless 
gallop, it matters not much whither. In this case, 
however, the goal was decidedly an object; and 
having traversed these spurs of the Sierra Nevada, 
we found ourselves at last, about midnight, wind- 
ing our way through the tortuous streets of Loja, 
amid a frantic cracking of whips and horn-blow- 
ing ; swinging round the corners in such fashion 
that our team would be in one street whilst we 



JOURNEY TO GRANADA. 225 

were in another, and the imp grew ubiquitous as he 
sprang about aniougst the ten, whipping and 
swearing vigorously. 

It was really a relief to draw up at the railway 
station, and have a cessation of these brutal sounds. 

On alighting, visions of rest for half-an-hour, 
and a cup of tea stole pleasantly over me ; as, 
stiff, parched with thirst, choked with dust, and 
intensely tired, I made my way into the station. 
The bare, dimly-lighted apartment into which I 
wandered, with its narrow bench running round it 
cushionless, offered but poor prospect of the former 
luxury, viz. rest ; and the other appeared equally 
unattainable, as I shrank from struggling through 
the unwashed crowd that thronged the refresh- 
ment department. 

Feverish from excitement, my tongue literally 
clove to the roof of my mouth ; and, in pain in 
every limb, my whole frame seemed included in 
one " ache." But only a few minutes passed, and 
my kind caballeros had found me out, and were 
suggesting that I needed some refreshment. 
What could they get me ? 

I had better go into the room where people 

Q 



226 WORD-SKETCHES IN TEE SWEET SOUTH. 

were being served. Accordingly I followed them ; 
they cleared a space round one of the tables, and 
seated me as well as they were able. 

" Tea. Will you be good enough to tell the 
waiter to bring me some tea?" I cried — I was 
dying for it. 

This rare drink, however, was not to be had. 
Chocolate there was, and coffee. 

The latter was brought — very poor stuff. Still 
it was welcome, and served to revive exhausted 
nature. Meanwhile, my companions solaced them- 
selves with a glass of cold water each, and panales. 
The latter resemble in shape the wafers we eat 
with ices, but are made of sugar, at least that is 
the chief ingredient, and they are tasteless and 
insipid. They are eaten moistened. The end is 
dipped into the water, bitten, or sucked off; another 
dip, another bite, and so on till it is finished. 

With this mess Spaniards regale themselves ; 
and it is the orthodox thing to hand round when a 
soiree is given, or guests are in any way received, 
just as eau sucree is, amongst our Gallic neighbours. 

The coffee consumed, I naturally took out my 
purse to pay for it, when my English-speaking 



JOURNEY TO OR AN ABA. 227 

friend, with a dignified gesture, drew forth his, 
and signified his intention of " settling." 

To this of course I firmly objected, adding, that 
in England it was customary for ladies to pay 
their own debts. " But you are in Spain now," 
was the quick response, "and i When you are in 
Rome ' — you know the proverb." 

Finding that offence would be given if I per- 
sisted, I at length yielded the point, congratulating 
myself that the disbursement was but trifling. 

On mentioning the circumstance afterwards to 
friends accustomed to Spanish usages, I was told 
that the gentlemen acted strictly in accordance 
with etiquette, and that their sensitiveness on this 
point would have been deeply wounded had I 
maintained my own country's customs. 

And now the train should have left, but there 
was no sign of preparation. Wearily dragged 
the time in that comfortless station. Excitement 
had died out, fatigue pressed painfully, and it was 
hard work battling against the sleep that would 
have weighed down the heavy eyelids ; for to 
indulge in a doze would have been to run the risk 
of being left behind 

Q 2 



228 W0RD-SKETCHE8 IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

At last, with the greatest deliberation, the train 
was got ready, the passengers took their seats, and 
after a still further most tiresome delay — about an 
hour and a half late as regarded the proper time 
for starting, we moved away. 

No railway carriage had ever seemed so com- 
fortable, nay, luxurious, as this one, in which, 
with a delicious sense of " roughing it " passed, I 
now took mine ease. Sleepiness had taken flight, 
and it was vain to try to lure " Nature's soft nurse " 
to do her duty then ; but it was delightful to lie 
quiet while looking out for the dawn which would 
reveal the beauties of the fertile Vega through 
which our route lay. 

In due course, though to the watcher the hours 
seemed long, the purple night paled, the faint 
streaks in the eastern horizon grew brighter 'and 
longer, outlines became more definite, ghostlike 
objects assumed form and colour, and the spreading 
plain, the scene of so many sanguinary conflicts, 
smiled under the rich burden of its waving crops 
as the rising sun's first glance shot athwart them a 
ray of glory. 

Granada was ahead. 



( 229 ) 



CHAPTER XIII. 

GRANADA. 

Yes : there — a towering barrier of some 12,000 
feet at their highest point, rose fold upon fold the 
blue-grey mountains of the Sierra Nevada, their 
summits glistening with snow sunned to an apricot 
hue, their sides streaked as by veins with the snow 
that lay in their clefts and hollows ; and beneath 
the shelter of these giants stood, at a comparatively 
low elevation, the Alhambra hill, just catching the 
sunbeams on its crest of red ruin. 

Were those .earthy-looking lumps the fairy 
Palace ? 

Most people have some idea formed in their 
minds of places they are on the eve of seeing, and 
in this case imagination had pictured another 
Heidelberg. 

Imagination was at fault. 



230 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH 

Heidelberg Castle may be compared to a once 
lovely woman, who even in old age retains traces 
of her past beauty. 

The Alhambra, on the contrary, more resembles 
some scarred and maimed old warrior, whose bat- 
tered frame has lost its symmetry, but in whose 
very ruggedness are signs of former strength. 

Shapeless red masses, that indicate rather than 
describe broken walls and riven towers, are all 
that the traveller can see of the Alhambra as he 
approaches Granada by the railroad. 

These massive ruins crown the height, and green 
woods creep up from the valley to clothe the base 
of the straggling pile and lend it picturesqueness. 

As in all Moorish buildings, the exterior of this 
one must have been considered of minor import- 
ance, save in its presenting an appearance of 
solidity and of majestic grandeur — a rude grandeur 
that disdained the adventitious aid of ornament 
to gratify the sight of outside beholders, whilst it 
reserved for the princely inmates and privileged 
few who were admitted inside, the graces of art 
and beauties of decoration which were there so 
profusely lavished. 



GRANADA. 231 

A selfish idea, after all ; but the pleasure of 
"the million" was not studied here a.d. 1248. 
They were left " out in the cold " in those days, 
are so still where the warm sun of Christianity has 
not shed its rays ; and, alas ! there are chilly spots 
of shadow, even in lands where those rays do shine. 

At the station, the commissionaire, or guide, 
attached to the hotel " Washington Irving " pre- 
sented himself, and I was soon driving through 
the old city of Granada, which was shuttered close 
and its inhabitants all asleep at that early hour, 
Rve a.m., and up the long steep ascent to the Al- 
hambra hill. 

No one seemed about in the hotel. The guide 
admitted himself, I fancy ; and then conducted me 
upstairs, found me an apartment, and bowed him- 
self off. 

A bath, though longed for, was at such a time 
unobtainable ; and there was nothing, therefore, 
for the wearied traveller to do but to tie a wet 
towel round the head that was aching so fiercely, 
and to lie down and seek rest. 

On appearing in the table d'hote room for 



232 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

breakfast, a message was brought me from the 
guide, asking at what hour his services would be 
required. 

The answer returned was that they would not 
be wanted at all that day. It seemed preferable 
to introduce oneself to the old place and to receive 
such impressions as it might make on first acquaint- 
ance, without this individual, — a congenial* com- 
panion not being at hand. 

So, by-and-by, I crossed the road in front of 
the hotel, and proceeded leisurely along one of the 
paths leading up through the wood,— the wood that 
was planted with the elm-trees from England in 
1812. A curious appearance it has : for, having 
apparently never been thinned, the trees are so 
crowded that they cannot attain to any size, and 
they have struggled up in vast numbers — slight 
things, with a weedy look, strangely at variance 
with our notions of what elms should be. 

But they form a close network of verdure over- 
head, which casts a dense shade. Seats are placed 
here and there, and, save that beggars give you 
no peace, it is pleasant to sit in the tremulous 
shadow, and hear the fizzing of the chicharra in 



GRANADA. 233 

the branches above, and the sound — delicionsly 
refreshing by contrast — of the gurgling water 
passing down in small conduits by the side of the 
pathway, gliding or rushing according to the fall 
at the spot, but always most musical to the ear in 
a burning land like Spain. 

Parts of the palace walls, of tapia, red in colour 
and soft-looking, are visible through the foliage, 
and presently a sculptured fountain is reached. 
This is no relic of ..the Moor, though: it is of 
Charles Y.'s time, and we pass on up through the 
turnings of the " Gate of Justice," noticing the 
stone seats underneath it, where the " men of the 
city " may have sat, as in the East in the days of 
Euth and Boaz, to administer justice. One looks 
at the Arabic inscriptions, and at the open hand 
over the fine horse-shoe archway and the key be- 
neath ; and a few paces further, up a narrow 
lane and there is the Plaza de los Algibes (or cis- 
terns), a large open space, partly surrounded by 
buildings. 

A church is there, and the huge unfinished 
palace commenced by Charles V. ; the outer wall 
of the Alcazaba-Kassabah, or ancient citadel of the 



234 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

Moors (by some centuries older than other parts of 
the fortress), fronts one side, and in a corner oppo- 
site is the entrance to the palace of the Alhambra.. 

But that enchanted ground, which presents so 
little to attract in its exterior aspect, requires the 
" open sesame " of the guide's presence, or perhaps 
a special permit ; so, on this my first visit, I con- 
tented myself with taking a general survey of the 
situation, and lerning to " find my way about." 
Lazily yielding to the languor which the night's 
rough journeyings had left, I seated myself on the 
rampart wall opposite the far-famed well, and, 
resting awhile, watched the donkeys being laden 
with their cool burden of water-barrels, enjoyed 
the sweet fragrance of the flowers blooming in the 
garden with the myrtle hedge close by, and ever 
and anon turned to feast my eyes on the view on 
the other hand. 

Wooded slopes ran down the hill from below 
the wall. There, at the base, flows the Darro ; 
the city lies to the left, but facing you rises the 
hill covered with the houses, gardens, walls, and 
motley erections that form the suburb called the 
Albaicin. Above this, and stretching to the right, 



GBANADA. 235 

is a bill, the Monte Sacro, wearing just then a 
very desiccated appearance — dried and scorched, 
in fact, so thoroughly that it looked like a moun- 
tain of dust. 

In sketching this hill from a point a short dis- 
tance further on, I found a buff-coloured sheet of 
paper answered the purpose admirably ; for when 
the blue sky was " put in," it needed but a few 
touches of shadow, some white dots to indicate 
the houses, and some dark green markings for 
the olive plantations, and the local colouring was 
given. 

The foreground and middle distance were more 
redundant of colour. The latter was formed by 
the ravine — a purple hollow half- veiled by a light 
vapour, like a luscious plum with the bloom on — 
full of charming bits of tumble-down dwellings, 
and trellised bowers of vines and figs, disclosing 
here and there the rushing waters of the Darro ; 
and in the foreground stood a white house, with a 
low Moorish tower, the shadows inky black, the 
roofing vivid scarlet. A garden lay in front, with 
its plot of canes, its glossy myrtle, its tangle 
of roses. 



236 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

The air was sweetly odorous ; and in the mid- 
day hush the hum of the bees — " the yellow bees 
in the ivy bloom," and the cooing of the pigeons 
or fluttering of their wings were the only sounds 
that broke the stillness. " A pleasant land of 
drowsie-hed it was." 

But if the mind went day-dreaming and con- 
juring up past scenes in delightful " idlesse," the 
fingers were busy this day, and some pleasant 
mementoes in the shape of sketches were the 
result. 

Looking at the wide circuit of the walls of the 
fortress, perhaps it is scarcely surprising that it 
was capable of containing an army of forty thou- 
sand men, and its strength must have been pro- 
digious in those days when it was required for 
purposes of defence, for the walls and towers are 
of enormous thickness. True, high as it stands, 
other heights command it ; but they would easily 
be made inaccessible to a hostile force, and the 
Moor 'in his mountain eyrie must have felt that 
Nature was his friend as he gazed on the high 
stony barriers beneath which his paradise lay 
sheltered. And down, like an eagle, he might look 



GRANADA. 237 

on the rich valley below in all its tropical luxuri- 
ance, and deem it easy to swoop down on his 
quarry : but, as a snake, the foe stole on that sapped 
his power ; onwards it crept, and upwards, dis- 
possessing him at length of his Eden. The proud 
Moslem bowed to the hand of Fate. But sadly 
and sorrowfully he went forth, even as our first 
parents might from their paradise ; and tender 
and touching is the tradition which has named 
that distant hill we see jutting out into the verdant 
plain " El ultimo suspiro del Moro " — the Last 
Sigh of the Moor, or " La Cuesta de las Lagrimas " 
— the Place of Tears. There is quite a village 
within the enclosure of the fortress walls, ex- 
tensive gardens, and numerous houses, besides 
Charles Y.'s palace, the buildings of the Alhambra 
itself, and the Citadel. 

The latter stands at the point that overlooks the 
Yega and commands a magnificent view/" On the 
second day of my sojourn at Grranada, after I had 
wandered in its halls of witching beauty, and had 
become, in a measure, imbued with the spirit of 
the place, I repaired, towards evening, unattended, 
to the Alcazaba-Kassabah, with the intention of 



238 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

watching the sun set from the summit of the Torre 
de la Vela. 

On entering the tower, and seeing the dark, 
narrow stairs that had to be ascended, I hesitated 
for a moment, and as a noisy party of soldiers 
came trooping down, I ran back to the entrance. 
When they had passed out, however, I returned 
to the charge, and pushed breathlessly on up the 
gloomy ascent till I reached the top, hurrying 
forward from the knowledge that the glories of 
the hour were fleeting. 

The flat roof at last was gained. 

How grand the prospect ! Looking eastward, 
the scene was alpine. The granite fastnesses of 
the Sierra Nevada and Alpuj arras glowed ruddy 
red, and their snowy crests gleamed and blushed 
with the tints of pure opal. Of the nearer hills, 
those in shadow stood out blackly ; those on which 
the light fell, revealing their withered pastures, 
were pale and hueless, save from the borrowed 
tints of evening flushing them into transitory life. 
Beneath lay the multifarious buildings that com- 
prise the Alhambra, a strange, sad mixture of 
grandeur and desolation. 



GRANADA. 239 

Turning to the west, was a brilliant — a gor- 
geous picture. 

The city of Granada was seen below, its towers 
and stately edifices still gilt by the sun-rays : to 
the right, the Albaicin in profound shade, with 
the church of St. Nicholas on the summit of the 
hill, denned by lines of light. But how describe 
the lovely Vega, with its villages and fields, its 
orange and citron groves — all its fertile beauty 
lying there, half hidden, half revealed by the 
golden haze that filled it ! The Genii meandered 
like a silver thread through the plain, and to right 
and to left, in the distance, were seen moun- 
tains, passing through every gradation of warm 
grey, as the moments stole on. 

Of richest saffron was the sky, and the hills in 
the horizon melted into the most delicate peach 
tints ; whilst others, not so distant, took shades 
of violet, or glowed with the full colouring of 
rubies. 

How often the eyes of the happy possessors of 
this fair land must have gazed lovingly upon it 
under a similar aspect, and those of the conquerors 
gloated with exultation over their costly prize ! 



240 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

And what places famed in story the sunbeams 
glint on ! 

Deeds of bravery have made yonder crag or 
defile memorable for ever. There is Jaen — there 
is Alhama — there Loja ; and near where Santa 
Fe now stands, fancy may see the gay encamp- 
ment of the " Most Christian " monarchs Ferdinand 
and Isabella, where they settled themselves down 
to prosecute in " comfort " the siege of much- 
coveted Granada. 

How quickly an Armstrong or a Whit worth 
gun would have unsettled this comfortable arrange- 
ment ! 

By-and-by, as the brown twilight drew its veil 
over the scene, I could distinguish here and there 
fires caused by weed-burning. The flames looked 
like the flashing of jewels through the gloom, as 
they caught the irradiance of the after-glow that 
flooded the heavens. 

Long I lingered, spell-bound by the beauty and 
the deep interest of the spot, till the shadows 
warned me to descend. 

There was no one else on the tower-top but some 
soldiers, who scanned the stranger-lady naturally 



GRANADA. 241 

with inquisitive glances, but were very well- 
behaved, as all Spaniards are, — probably respect- 
ing themselves too much to omit paying respect 
to others. 

Going down the dark staircase was rather worse 
than going up it ; but the performance was safely 
achieved, and so was the walk, or rather trot, 
through the tenebrous avenues that conducted 
me back to the hotel, the lights of which were 
welcome. 

This hotel was not quite as untenanted as the 
one in scorching Seville, for the temperature of 
Granada is comparatively cool, from its elevated 
position — 2445 ft. above the sea, and people con- 
sequently resort thither in the summer months to 
enjoy the fresh air, shade, and immunity from 
mosquitoes. 

Still, the number of guests was few : only a 
Spanish couple, with a very juvenile child, that 
was brought to the table and fed ; an Englishman 
— the rich, drowsy tones of whose voice recalled to 
mind old Lablache in a buffo part ; and at dinner 
one day we were joined by a gentleman, whose 
steel-cold polish had a soupcon of the diplomatic in 

R 



242 WORD-SKETCHES IN TEE SWEET SOUTH. 

it, and who, from his polyglot tongue, was pro- 
bably a Russian. 

The quiet afforded by this absence of the tourist 
element was pleasant ; and if the feeling of liking 
to have the Alhambra all to oneself for a time 
was egotistical, it was scarcely unpardonable. 

On Sunday morning I sent a waiter over to the 
" Siete Suelos " hotel opposite, to see if there were 
English or Americans enough stopping there to 
muster for service, as there was a report of an 
English clergyman being in the place,— but the 
messenger returned with a negative answer on 
both points. 

And now, ere the reader is asked to accompany 
me to the Alhambra, which, like a child's bonne- 
bouche at a feast, I would retain as my last pleasant 
memory here, I would propose a visit to the casket 
that enshrines the jewel. 

The old city of Granada has a mediaeval, toned- 
down appearance, that is pleasant after the glaring 
whiteness of Seville and Cordova. 

The population is estimated at 75,000 ; but 
if, as is stated, it formerly numbered 400,000, 



GRANADA. 243 

it must have been a close pack for them, according 
to our modern ideas, the place being by no 
means large. 

The Cathedral is the chief feature of the town. 
Originally a mosque, it received additions to fit it 
for a Christian temple, which did not improve it 
architecturally ; and neither externally nor in its 
interior can it command admiration as a building. 

It contains, however, objects of the deepest in- 
terest — chiefly in connection with Ferdinand and 
Isabella, the conquerors of Granada, who are 
buried in the church. 

Their coffins are shown in the vault beneath the 
Eoyal Chapel. A strange feeling comes over one 
in standing in the gloomy, narrow chamber, close 
— within a few inches if you choose, of this dust 
that once made the earth tremble : when, endued 
with life, these frail bodies obeyed the dictates of 
an invincible will. 

There are portraits of these sovereigns — quaint 
and unflattering enough to be true — and several 
relics ; one of the latter is a chasuble, worked by 
the queen's fair fingers ; another is her mass-book, 
and in the Capilla de los Reyes, or Royal Chapel, 

R 2 



244 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

are the two magnificent tombs erected to their 
memory, and to that of their daughter Juana la 
Loca, and her husband, Philip of Burgundy. 

Irresistibly, these monuments reminded me of 
those to the same house — viz., Burgundy — at 
Dijon and at Bruges. 

These are of alabaster, exquisitely carved by 
Peralta of Genoa, and in their incomparable 
beauty, are studies of art; nothing can be more 
exquisite than some of the figures used in orna- 
mentation, and the effigies themselves are wonder- 
fully fine. 

The Cathedral also can show some good paint- 
ings. " La Yirgen de la Soledad," and others, by 
Alonzo Oano, are amongst the most attractive ; 
and over the door of the Sola Capitular, or 
Chapter-room, is a piece of sculpture that struck 
me as being charming, both in design and execu- 
tion. 

The subject is " Charity " (a graceful, womanly 
form, tending the sick, expresses it), and this was 
the specimen-work sent by Torrigiano, when he 
wished to be employed on the sepulchre of the 
conquering monarchs. 



GRANADA. 245 

As a rule, the Christian graces are represented 
as such uninteresting young women, that it is 
delightful to see them illustrated becomingly, and 
not after the conventional model. 

In trying to angelise, artists' too often rob 
the human- of its humanity, and give it nothing 
in exchange but a cold hardness, intended for 
etherealism, which is not only unsatisfying, but 
is frequently repellent. If the form of a mortal 
be chosen to illustrate an abstract thought or 
moral virtue, surely it might be permitted to 
retain some of its mortal charms, " clothed upon " 
with the life, the fire, the soul of the immortal. 

In one part of the church it was almost impos- 
sible to pass, for the crowd of people kneeling round 
some painted images, or pasos, that were being 
exhibited for the edification of the faithful. 

These sacred dummies were life-size, or a trifle 
larger. One of them was dressed in a rich velvet 
robe, embroidered with, gold, was decked with 
costly lace and jewels, and had on its head a crown 
of great value, which had been a present from the 
ex-Queen of Spain. 

The other was attired in a white gown, some- 



246 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

what dingy, but trimmed lavishly. This poor 
lady was the victim of her maid, for her gorgeous 
headdress had been stuck on awry, giving her a 
most dissipated air, which was further increased 
when, the pedestal whereon she was placed getting 
pushed by the pressure of the throng, her head 
wagged most comically. 

Yet the worshippers, for such they seemed — 
simple-looking country people — gazed up at her 
with adoring eyes, their gravity wholly unmoved 
by the eccentric performances of their idol. 

Piteous degradation of the intellect ! Such 
representations, it is said, assist the devotion of 
the ignorant and untaught. 

But why are the masses left "ignorant" and 
" untaught " ? 

On quitting the Cathedral, the Archbishop's 
Palace and some other interesting buildings were 
pointed out to me, and then I walked through the 
Zacatin to look at the shops, and to see the old 
Moorish bazaar. 

In the Plaza Nueva, where stands the handsome 
edifice appropriated to the " Court of Chancery," 



GEANADA. 247 

the big coach with a pair of horses, which mine 
host of the hotel had deemed the fitting convey- 
ance for a lady to drive about in, rejoined me, and 
with many swingings round corners, and scrapings 
of walls in the narrow streets, bore me to the Casa 
de Tiros, belonging to Count Pallavicini (Marquis 
of Campotejar, in Spain). 

It is there that orders are obtained for viewing 
the Generalife Villa, and there, too, the sword of 
Boabdil is shown. 

The visitor is conducted up a handsome stair- 
case and through lobbies, where the polished floor- 
ing reminds one of an old English home ; through 
several apartments — pleasant living-rooms, cool, 
shadowy, and comfortably furnished — into the one 
where the relic is kept. 

A mahogany case was unlocked, and there lay 
the identical sword used by El Eey Chico. Being 
no judge of such weapons, I could only see it was 
a very pretty thing — far too pretty for its cruel 
use, being highly ornamented in the Moorish 
style. 

Curiosity appeased in this quarter, the Cartuja 
convent was next visited. On the way thither we 



248 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

drove across the large open space called the Plaza 
del Triunfo, and observed the fine Hospital de los 
Locos, a lunatic asylum founded by Ferdinand and 
Isabella ; a fact which proved those distinguished 
personages to have been in advance of their age, 
such establishments being then unknown. A long 
glaring, dusty road, brought us at length to the 
Cartuja. 

A quiet-mannered man, with a rather refined 
face, conducted us in. He had originally, so I was 
informed, been a monk in the convent prior to its 
suppression, and he seemed now to be a " door- 
keeper in the house of the Lord," and to find it a 
peaceful and congenial occupation. He wore a 
loose black dress like that of a verger. 

Passing through the cloisters, he pointed out 
the paintings that adorned them — scenes of per- 
secution and torture, in which men in the monastic 
garb appeared to be the victims ; and when I 
asked an explanation, he told me, with a smile in 
his eyes, that the pictures "represented the 
cruelties practised on Catholics by Protestants in 
England under Henry VIII." 

The smile extended to his lip as I expressed my 



GBANADA. 249 

surprise, and as far as his gentle nature would 
permit, lie felt, I think, mischievously pleased. 

The drawing of some of these pictures is most 
spirited, though the colouring is hard and black, 
wanting air ; and the horrific is carried to the 
border of the grotesque in a few of them. 

The Refectory is a fine apartment, and on the 
walls is some fresco painting that is an admirable 
bit of perspective. 

The Chapel, however, and Sacristy contain the 
chief attractions for lovers of art. The marbles in 
the former are of numerous kinds, and in their 
perfection and polish are truly splendid ; whilst 
the doors, which I fancy are of cedar-wood, are 
inlaid very richly with tortoise-shell, ebony, 
mother-of-pearl, &c. In the same style of mar- 
queterie are those of the Sacristy, where, moreover, 
the wardrobes and drawers correspond. 

Some idea may be formed of the labour involved 
in the work when one hears that it occupied the 
artificer fifty years — a whole life-time of half a 
century. 

The quondam " brother " informed me that an 
English nobleman was desirous of purchasing 



250 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

these beautiful specimens ; but whether his offer 
was accepted or declined, I have not heard. 

In addition to these objects there are some 
coloured statues to see ; one especially of St. Bruno, 
which is very effective and striking. It forms the 
centre-piece of the high altar. The attitude is 
bold, the dark, earnest face is well set off by 
the white Carthusian frock ; and as he stands 
there surrounded by masses of marble hard and 
cold, you naturally think of the fervid soul, 
eloquent, passionate, appealing to the stony 
nature of earthlings. 

The Cartuja certainly affects one impressively, 
with the idea it conveys to the mind of the wealth 
and power that formerly belonged to the Carthu- 
sian order ; and it is on that account perhaps the 
most interesting of all the suppressed religious 
houses in Granada. 



C 251 ) 



CHAPTER XIV. 

THE ALHAMBKA. 

Washington Irving, writing of the Alhambra, 
said, " The peculiar charm of this old, dreamy 
palace is its power of calling up vague reveries 
and picturings of the past, and thus clothing 
naked realities with the illusions of the memory 
and the imagination." 

Thus he wrote forty years ago, and the thought- 
ful visitor will indorse every word of the enthu- 
siastic American, whose name will ever be asso- 
ciated with the spot. His language will best 
describe the appearance presented to the eye on 
first entering through the small doorway which 
admits you to the building. 

" The transition was almost magical. It seemed 
as if we were at once transported into other times 
and another realm, and were treading the scenes 



252 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

of Arabian story. We found ourselves in a great 
court, paved with white marble, and decorated at 
each end with light Moorish peristyles : it is 
called the Court of the Alberca. In the centre 
was an immense basin or fish-pond, a hundred and 
thirty feet in length by thirty in breadth, stocked 
with gold-fish, and bordered by hedges of roses." 

Probably for the reason that we in the present 
day have become so used to Crystal Palaces and 
similar wonders in the " monster " line, that we 
look for vastness more than did our forefathers, 
this Patio de la Alberca (or fish-pond) to me, 
looked rather small. But it is very lovely, and 
in its prettiness it wore a cozy, home-look, as 
pigeons strutted about cooing lovingly, and a dog 
came whining round for notice. A vision of 
harem beauties toying with their pets and gos- 
sipping or wrangling suggested itself, however, 
as the kind of domestic life that the glassy pool 
had most often reflected. 

On to the Court of Lions. This and all the 
other courts and halls have been so frequently 
described that a detailed account would be weary- 
ing : still, u A thing of beauty is a joy for ever," 



THE ALHAMBBA. 253 

and some who read these pages may have felt the 
spell cast round them by the half-mysterious love- 
liness of this " Palacio del Rey Moro," and may 
sympathetically follow the footsteps of the writer, 
and have their own feelings rekindled as memory 
is awakened. 

And here again let Washington Irving speak, 
as we stand in the Court of Lions : " There is no 
part of the edifice that gives us a more complete 
idea of its original beauty and magnificence than 
this, for none has suffered so little from the 
ravages of time. In the centre stands the fountain 
famous in song and story. The alabaster basins 
still shed their diamond drops ; and the twelve 
lions which support them cast forth their crystal 
streams as in the days of Boabdil. The court is 
laid out in flower-beds, and surrounded by light 
Arabian arcades of open filagree-work, supported 
by slender pillars of white marbles. 



" When one looks upon the fairy tracery of the 
peristyles, and the apparently fragile fretwork of 
the walls, it is difficult to believe that so much 



254 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

has survived the wear and tear of centuries, the 
shocks of earthquakes, the violence of war, and 
the quiet, though no less baneful pilferings of the 
tasteful traveller : it is almost sufficient to excuse 
the popular tradition, that the whole is protected 
by a magic charm." 

Wondrously beautiful are those innumerable 
arches with their rich burden of snowy pendants 
— the form which the honeycomb pattern produces, 
like the stalactites in a cave amongst glaciers ; and 
delicate, though rich, is the lace-like tracery that 
covers the walls. 

The lower part is of azulejos, or coloured tiles, 
some of them emblazoned with the escutcheons 
of the Moorish monarchs; the upper portion is 
of Damascus work, or Tarkish, in reality moulded 
in plaster, but having the effect of carvings in 
bas-relief. Many of these, that to the uninitiated, 
look like designs, are texts from the Koran, or 
poetry ; # but the Cufic characters are so arranged 
that they may be read either way, and there is in 
consequence perfect uniformity in the line. 

* Ford gives the translation of one of the inscriptions in the Mezquita 
as being — " God is our refuge in every trouble." 



THE ALHAMBRA. 255 

The colouring is most harmonious. With the 
exquisite taste that pervades the entire fabric, the 
marble pillars are disposed here and there in 
groups, to prevent the stiff effect which might 
have been the result had they all stood singly. 
This world-renowned bit of architecture is indeed 
perfection ! 

Next we visit the Hall of the Abencerrages, 
corresponding in style with this patio on which it 
opens ; and notice the dark stains left there, it is 
said, by the darker deed of the massacre : then we 
enter the fine saloons at the east end. Here the 
pictures on the ceiling attract notice. One does 
not expect to see delineations of the human form 
by Moslems. These are quaint-looking paintings. 
They are on leather, in the Byzantine style, and 
represent various scenes in which Moors and 
Christians figure in antagonism, and always to 
the discomfiture of the latter. 

Another most beautiful saloon is that of Las dos 
Hermanas, or two sisters ; not so named, however, 
after any heroines of romance, but after two blocks 
of marble in the pavement. 

We have yet the great tower of Comares to see ; 



256 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

and we retrace our steps along the lovely arcades 
like cloisters, and passing through the ante-gallery 
— exquisite as any of the rooms — reach the " Hall 
of Ambassadors." 

Here one can realize the magnificence of the 
Arabian ideas, as one stands beneath the^ lofty 
dome seventy-five feet in height, with its beauties 
shrouded in the gloom of distance ; and fancy 
conjures up the monarch seated on the throne, 
with his brilliant retinue in gorgeous robes ranged 
on either hand — Yusuf, it may be, or poor luckless 
Boabdil — he who from a window in this same 
tower was once let down in a basket by his mother, 
Ayeshah, when she feared harm to his young life. 
It is a fit spot for musing. 

Near here is the mosque, and some of the pri- 
vate apartments of the ci-devant inhabiters of the 
palace. The dressing-room of the Sultana is a 
small place only nine feet square ; and the guide 
calls one's attention to the fact, that in one corner 
is a marble slab pierced with holes, the intention 
of which was, that through this contrivance per- 
fumes might be wafted to the Eoyal nose. 

In close proximity are the baths, and perhaps 



TEE ALEAMBBA. 257 

nothing expresses more clearly the luxuriousness 
of the Moor than the arrangements seen here. 
After undergoing the various processes of the bath, 
he rested awhile in an apartment fitted up for the 
purpose, and furnished with a gallery where mu- 
sicians were stationed, to soothe the mind with 
soft strains while the body reposed. (If they made 
the same monotonous noise that the "band" at 
Tangier did for our benefit, the effect must have 
been soporific.) 

This part of the building, originally the domestic 
portion, is very interesting ; and, adorning it in 
imagination with silken hangings and costly car- 
pets that doubtless were in perfect harmony with 
the work of the architect and the artist, it is easy 
to believe that the tout ensemble afforded unalloyed 
satisfaction to the eye of taste. 

And so, dreamily, one wanders on as in an 
enchanted castle, ever admiring more and more 
the beauty of these lordly halls which abound so 
largely in architectural interest, in those fairy 
arches and spandrils, and the delicate surface 
decorations that are models for all time. 

The delicacy and grace are almost puzzling. 

s 



258 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

The architecture of by-gone races — Assyrian, 
Egyptian, Indian, Mexican — all denote a certain 
rude force and grandeur of conception ; but in 
most of them, forms unnatural, hideous, and revolt- 
ing, mark the era that saw them created, as one 
of a coarse and corrupt state of feeling. 

Greek art, on the contrary, seems to be the ex- 
ponent of beauty — the enduring expression of those 
natural beauties which are in themselves fleeting — 
manly comeliness, feminine grace, and the thou- 
sand and one attractive objects in the animate and 
inanimate world. Thus it borrows its curving lines 
from tree, leaf, flower, and winding stream ; and 
its numerous adaptations are so tastefully and skil- 
fully effected, that they have for us a subtle and 
undefinable charm. Their origin, I think, may 
be traced to an sesthetic appreciation of visible 
Nature. 

But the Moorish or Saracenic style strikes me 
as the poetic expression of scientific truth ; as if 
the old Arabian wise men and mathematicians had 
grown sportive, toying with their instruments, 
playing with their profession, and producing out 
of its hard, unswerving rules, stiff diagrams, and 



THE ALIIAMBRA. 259 

geometric puzzles, out of rhomb and triangle, 
polygon and square, circle, ellipse, cycloid, &c, 
pleasing and effective combinations ; enduing them, 
moreover, with soul, life, and sentiment. 

No doubt it was the Koran that, in limiting 
their models, drove the Moslem artists to resort to 
these devices ; but it is strange that the patterns 
thus contrived — the flowers as it were of science, 
less quickly pall upon the sense than those which 
are representations of natural objects. 

To give a homely illustration : — most people 
weary sooner of their drawing-room carpets, sup- 
posing the design upon them to be floral or fanciful, 
than they do of the Turkey carpet in the dining- 
room, with its neat though complex arrangement 
of lines which define nothing save that marvel- 
lous " order " by which each line finds its place 
with mathematical precision. 

Voluptuous as the Moor may have been, there 
is nothing to indicate it in the works of his hands 
excepting in the most refined sense. All is pure, 
delicate, and ethereal, expressive rather of spirit 
than of matter, the perfume of the flower rather 
than the flower itself,* and the frequent references 

s 2 



260 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

to the Creator, which occur in the numerous in- 
scriptions that adorn the walls, testify to a strong 
religious feeling — a feeling that moved these fol- 
lowers of Islam to hallow their home by placing 
there the Sacred Name — honouring it, and keeping 
it in perpetual remembrance. 

Legends are rife in connexion with the Alham- 
bra, as every one knows ; and wild and absurd as 
most of the stories are, they yet seem in unison 
with the spot, and one does not care to shake off 
their influence, or to break the spell which seems 
cast around us, as by a magician's wand. 

Thus, in passing along the outer wall in the 
gloamin', after visiting the little toy-like mosque, 
and sitting amongst the roses and vines in the 
garden till the sun was low in the horizon, one 
lingers under the Torre de las Infantas, half ex- 
pecting to see a fair face appearing at the window, 
to hear a soft voice singing to the tones of a lute ; 
and to distinguish amongst the gathering shadows 
the form of the adventurous lover risking his life 
to listen to the tell-tale strain. And almost every 
tower has its romance, or history that is akin to 



THE ALHAMBRA. 261 

fable, making the entire place redolent of mystery, 
as if lying under the power of a necromancer. 

This weird, strange property it is which, even 
more than its beauty, endues the Alhambra with 
the witchery and fascination that it possesses for 
the imaginative visitor. 

But though the feelings raised amid these scenes 
that derive so much of their interest from the past 
are tender and sweet, there is a touch of sadness 
about them that after awhile becomes oppressive. 
Even the " Greneralife," the Moorish villa a little 
distance higher up — the summer resort of the 
inhabitants of the Palace in former times — -is not 
free from the same mournful atmosphere, but sits 
pensively on the rocky height, and looks down on 
the ruin below, whose triumph it was wont to 
share. I devoted a lovely evening to this place, 
which in itself is quaint and charming, and from 
its elevated situation commands a magnificent view. 
Long I wandered in the covered alleys or terraces, 
and leaving the guide to gossip with the custodian, 
ascended by many steps in the hill-side to a sum- 
mer-house, and mounting the stairs that led to the 
top of that, just as the " Sweet Angelus " rang out 



262 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

from the tinkling church-bells in the town, I 
feasted on the prospect and the golden glories of 
the hour. Looking down the gorge of the Darro in 
its twilight gloom, the eye was carried on to the 
sunny plains beyond, girt in with hills of amethyst 
hue ; while nearer, at one's feet, lay the once proud 
fortress, still grand in her desolation. 

Ah ! beauty-loving Moor ! Truly it must have 
been with sorrow that you lost all this ! 

Here, in this garden, many of the flowers you 
planted still. flourish, it is said. 

The guide, when I rejoined him, had some 
flowers that the gardener had given him, some of 
which, of course, were offered to the Sefiora. One 
deep red rose retains its velvety bloom and a whiff 
of the rich perfume it then had, even now. 

A small convolvulus, or something akin to it, 
attracted my notice as a stranger. It was a dwarf 
kind, growing thickly in one of the beds, and was 
canary-coloured with crimson stripes ; its name 
was given me as Don Pedro. The rush of water 
has a pleasant sound, as a stream from the Darro 
brought here in a small canal forms tiny pools and 
falls, amongst the myrtle hedges, the lilies, the 



THE ALHAMBRA. 263 

roses, the orange and pomegrante trees — all the 
odorous and beautiful] plants whose roots it 
refreshes. 

But there is nothing stately about this garden. 
Like everything designed by its possessors for 
domestic enjoyment, it is in the cozy and snug 
style — elegant but not large. 

The house corresponds with it. It contains 
many rooms, mostly ornamented with arabesques ; 
and the staircases are narrow, as in Moorish houses 
generally. In the portrait gallery is a picture of 
Boabdil — El Rey Chico, which, however, does not 
excite one much, as it is difficult to believe it to 
be genuine. 

More calculated to detain the visitor for awhile, is 
the genealogical tree of the Grimaldi, which hangs 
in this apartment. A Moorish prince named Cidi 
Aya was the founder of the family. He assisted 
in the conquest of his country, became a Christian, 
and was named Don Pedro. Was the flower I 
noticed, called after him, I wonder ? 

The gigantic old cypresses which attach them- 
selves with the scandal of Zoraya, are things that 
all the world visiting the Greneralife inquires for. 



264 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH 

There they are yet — wearing their five centuries 
well. Hard and dry like veteran scandal-mongers 
of society — the people not afflicted with sensibility 
— tho weakness that wears and kills — these living 
memorials of by-gone ages, gnarled with the knots 
Time has marked the passing years with, grey and 
grim they stand there still, in grotesque contrast 
with the budding freshness and lavish fertility of 
all around. 

"And does no one live in this delightful old 
house ? " was the question I asked of my cicerone. 

" Only the people who take care of it," was the 
reply. " The owner never comes here." 

It seems almost incredible, though it is asserted 
that Count Palavicini of Genoa, who as representa- 
tive of the Grimaldi-Gentili family* is the pro- 
prietor, should never have had the curiosity to 
visit the place.*" 

Returning down the hill in a musing vein, my 
reveries were broken in upon by the guide, who 
was rather taciturn (compared with the genus as 
usually met with), revealing the cause of his 
abstraction, by suddenly making some remark upon 

* " He married one of the Grimaldi daughters," said the guide. 



THE ALHAMBRA. 2fi5 

politics. It was not long after the assassination of 
General Prim, and the incident had caused a pro- 
found sensation throughout the land. 

Alluding to it presently, this man informed me 
that he had been a soldier, and had served under 
Prim in Africa, a fact which naturally awakened 
my interest and led to my questioning him on the 
subject, and remarking that I thought Prim a 
brave and resolute character, and a sad loss to 
Spain. 

Warming up at the eulogium on his late com- 
mander, the guide now cited an instance of which 
he had himself been witness, of the general's 
bravery ; when a small party of them, being 
separated from the main body, were surrounded 
by the enemy and in a position of extreme dan- 
ger, " Prim," he said, " was perfectly cool and 
collected ; as for fear, he did not know what it was. 

u His men worshipped him, his influence over 
them was unbounded, and they would have fol- 
lowed him anywhere." 

On the occasion in question he seemed to have 
cut his way out of the difficulty, and saved himself 
•and followers by simple dash. 



266 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

The change from a soldier's life to that of a 
guide to the Alhambra must have been consider- 
able for a young man, as this one was ; and 
nothing about him would have indicated his 
former profession but the way in which he car- 
ried the large white sunshade committed to his 
care occasionally. 

Apropos of this article, it has ere now afforded 
me the opportunity of comparing national cha- 
racteristics. 

The sturdy Switzer, to whom it was consigned 
now and then while crossing the Scheideck, and 
on the Grindelwald glacier, grasped it as an 
article of value to be firmly clutched lest by 
some mischance it should be lost. Mahommed 
at Tangier carried it daintily with the tips of 
his olive fingers, as a property of the white lady's, 
to be treated with becoming respect : but this 
Granada guide shouldered it like a musket, 
handled it as he would a sword, tucked it under 
his arm a la Gamp at last, and appeared gene-ed 
at being troubled with a weapon that was for 
defence only, and not for himself. Each for him- 
self, each for his " party," not the public weal ; 



THE ALHAMBBA. 267 

this is too much the case with the Spaniard 
in political life ; and pride disinclines him for 
bearing any burden, albeit he might thereby 
benefit. 

After this digression, — one more look at the 
massive towers that darkness is fast shrouding, 
yield once more to the glamour they cast at 
this witching hour, and then " adieu " to them 
with a sigh ; for when they are again seen in 
the morning's dawn, the stranger who has gazed 
on them with such deep interest and delight will 
be far on her way from Granada. 



( 268 ) 



CHAPTER XV. 

GKANADA TO MALAGA. 

The diligence, which is the usual conveyance for 
travellers across the Sierra, only runs at night 
during the summer months, on account of the 
heat ; and the train to meet it left Granada at 
11-30 p.m. 

The hour was a very awkward one, albeit the 
Commissionaire was engaged to see me to the 
station ; and, with the experiences of the uncom- 
fortable previous journey fresh in mind, it was 
with no pleasurable anticipations that the hour for 
starting was looked for. 

At length the Senora's carriage was an- 
nounced : " Miladi's," by the way. Now " Miladi " 
did not want the coach-and-pair. Having been 
warned that it was an important item in a 
Granada hotel bill, she had abstained from order- 



GBANADA TO MALAGA. 269 

ing a private vehicle, and desired that a seat 
might be retained for her in the omnibus of the 
establishment. 

However, that was allowed to start empty ; 
and the bill, asked for two hours before, was 
brought with the announcement of the carriage, 
and presented with the information that there 
was " just time to catch the train." 

The hurried payment of the sum total may be 
imagined. 

Well, it was the sole instance during the tour, 
of the slightest advantage being taken of the 
lonely lady at any of the inns ; and she shook 
the dust off her feet as she quitted this one. 

And, only in another isolated case did any- 
thing to disturb the serenity of her mind happen 
elsewhere. 

To this we are coming. 

The train in due time reached Loja, and at the 
station stood the diligence awaiting our arrival. 
Presenting the ticket, which secured or ought to 
have secured for its owner an inside place in 
the front compartment — what in France is called 
the coupe — I was told that every seat in the 



270 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

interior was already occupied, and that I must 
mount up on the outside. 

I showed the ticket again. 

" Yes, it was all right : but that part was full ; 
see, three people, Frenchman, his wife, and her 
maid." 

(How glad I felt that I had no " maid " to 
monopolize best places, and perhaps grumble as 
well.) 

Finding that the people were French, I ap- 
pealed to them : but the "lady" would not hear; 
the gentleman seemed disquieted, murmured 
faintly that there was "not place," — I knew 
that, and made no attempt at civility. 

That man was under wifely control. Of course 
there was wrong-doing somewhere. Either the 
ticket should not have been sold to me, or else 
the French people — and this is the likeliest ex- 
planation — had made it convenient to the con- 
ductor to wink at their arrangements, and give 
the seat in the coupe to the servant, instead of 
to the lady who had engaged and paid for it. 

But it was in vain to expostulate in an un- 
known tongue with the officials ; and, in the 



OB AN AD A TO MALAGA. 271 

darkness and confusion it was impossible to find 
out the proper person to apply to for redress. 
Besides, the driver was getting his mules in 
position, and the start would soon be made. 

There was nothing to be done but to make 
the best of bad circumstances ; so, groping my 
way up the high ladder nervously, and bruising 
myself cruelly as I dived in under the hood of 
the banquette, I sat down. A man followed and 
took his seat ; another made his way in, and 
then another had to be made room for. The 
squeeze was considerable, but it was merely the 
beginning of discomfort, which was to increase 
when the ten mules, with the usual oaths and 
lashings attendant on the performance, were put 
in motion. 

If the stones and roughnesses of the road had 
been sensibly felt when I was sitting inside this 
Noah's Ark, what were the sensations outside ?• 
They were indescribably worse ; and terror of 
an upset was added to the other disagreeable 
feelings incident to the elevated position. It was 
difficult to suppress a scream sometimes, as we 
plunged into a hole, or seemed falling over on 



272 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

one side, whilst we poor passengers, stowed to- 
gether like sacks of flour, swayed to and fro en 
masse. 

But there are few things so bad that they could 
not be worse ; and the comforting element in this 
case was to be found in the fact that the two men 
between whom I was compressed as in a sandwich, 
were most good-natured and nice, and as little 
objectionable as it was possible for them to be. 

When the night's blackness at last rolled away 
and day dawned, so that eyes were of use, my 
neighbour on the left proved to be a stout young 
man of plain appearance ; the one on the right 
just the reverse, a handsome specimen of the slim 
Spaniard. His slimness was favourable to the 
occasion, and in his amiable efforts to give me 
as much room as he could, he flattened himself 
still further, and endeavoured in every way to 
add to my comfort. For this purpose he took 
off his top-coat, and, folding it neatly, placed it 
deftly as a cushion at my back. 

From that thoughtful kindness I drew the 
conclusion that he was a married man ; and the 
surmise was a just one. 



GRANADA TO MALAGA. 273 

In the darkness a thing had been knocking 
about in front of us, now giving a scratch to the 
nose, next threatening the eyes; the grey of 
morning revealed the mysterious affair as a child's 
go-cart of very uncarryable construction, that 
this young man was taking from Granada — famed 
for its toys — to "la petite" at home; and a small 
basket bobbing in front, as it hung suspended 
from a button from the diligence curtain, was for 
" Madame." 

" I must take them something" he said ; and 
in pleasant tones that betrayed manly tenderness 
at the thought of those domestic ties, and that 
augured well for the family happiness. 

He informed me he was an engineer, and men- 
tioned the railway with which he was connected. 
Success attend him. . 

Both the young men spoke French a little, 
which enabled them to converse with me, and 
when they addressed each other they did so in 
that language ; a delicate consideration for their 
travelling-companion, which she could not but 
appreciate, as they spoke it so badly and with 
such evident difficulty, that this act of politeness 

T 



274 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

cost them some effort ; now and then there was 
a breakdown which drove them to their mother- 
tongue, but only for awhile. In courtiers such 
politeness might have been looked for : these 
middle-class men, however, had courtesy ingrained, 
and they might have shamed many a noble. 

With daybreak the wild features of the country 
through which we were passing revealed them- 
selves. We were on high ground, and a few 
broad lines defined the landscape — treeless, arid, 
stony, and undulating, but colourless. Shortly, 
however, as the sun rose, the change was magical, 
and each shifting scene presented striking con- 
trasts of rich tints. 

One of these pictures was a sky of pure, trans- 
lucent, chrysolite hue, mountains blushing rosy 
red, a waste of purplish-brown earth, barren 
slopes shrivelled yellow, looking delusively 
golden ; in the foreground a group of peasants, 
with a cart of primitive make, and a smart map 
cantering past on a gaily caparisoned mule. 

Strange it is how instantaneously impressions 
are conveyed, and under what unfavourable cir- 
cumstances they may be received. This pictorial 



GRANADA TO MALAGA. 275 

effect was burnt in upon the mind when the eyes 
that saw it were leaden-lidded, and the brain 
seemed too dulled to take in the picture. The 
strongest opiate could scarcely have produced a 
more intensely sleepy feeling than now oppressed 
the weary traveller ; and it could not be yielded to. 
If the heavy head had inclined ever so little on 
either side it must have pressed on the shoulder 
of one of the neighbours ; if it had leant forward, 
the result would probably have been that the body 
attached to it would have followed, and fallen 
over on the backs of the mules. The effort to 
keep awake was actual pain. Truly welcome at 
length was the town of Archidona in sight, and a 
short distance beyond it the railway station. 

On alighting here, it was with some curiosity 
that I looked out for the coupe people. There 
they were, just what imagination might have 
painted them. 

Monsieur, small in dimensions, but big in 
vulgarity ; Madame elderly, and handsomely 
dressed, -with an air of " money " about her ; the 
maid rather good-looking. 

The two latter managed the former. Presently 

t 2 



276 WOBD-SKETGHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

spying me, Monsieur ambled up to where I was 
standing, and after staring hard, remarked that we 
had been " crowded " in the diligence, and asked 
me " How many we were, up there" 

A single word, the numeral " Quatre " disposed 
of him ; for, after standing looking irresolute for a 
moment or two, he slunk off to obey the behests of 
Madame. 

Had he been a gentleman, one might have 
considered him in a state of hen-peckage, and 
pitied him ; but as he was nothing of the kind, he 
was not an object of commiseration, but merely a 
contemptible little man. 

I hope his wife chastises him frequently. 

Bobadilla was reached about nine o'clock. 
Here the beaming look of recognition given by 
the civil young waiter who had served me on the 
journey towards Granada, augured attention on 
this occasion, and a cup of hot chocolate was 
quickly forthcoming. 

When the Cordova train came in, I took my 
place in it for Malaga. 

The scenery on this line is very fine in some 
parts — indeed grand. 



GRANADA TO MALAGA. 277 

There are Alpine passes. Stern granite moun- 
tains rising perpendicularly on either hand, leav- 
ing but a narrow, gloomy passage for the railway 
and the river Gruadaljorce ; a more open country 
follows, and then you plunge again into the hilly 
district. It is not pine-clad ; there are no shelving 
bits of emerald verdure half-way shy-ward as in 
Switzerland; there are no chalets to dot the 
heights — all is rock — cold, hard-looking, bare, 
severely majestic. But there is colouring on the 
rugged masses as the sun gilds them, and the blue 
in the ravines is so deep that it looks solid and 
tangible. Eapid glimpses are al] you get, how- 
ever ; for no sooner is one such scene visible 
than you are shot into a tunnel; you emerge 
from that, and the next moment are in another ; 
and so on, twelve times, there being as many 
tunnels : their combined length measures upwards 
of three miles. Several bridges are crossed — 
six — and besides them, there is a viaduct on this 
line which deserves notice ; so that the cost of this 
railroad must have been immense. The last gorge is 
the climax of the grandeur ; and then, if it was 
not like pausing from LTnferno to II Paradiso 



278 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

exactly, the transition was yet marvellously 
striking. 

We sped through groves of orange and lemon 
trees as through apple orchards in England ; 
through fields of maize, and of sugar-canes ten 
feet high ; gardens were on either hand rich in 
fragrant flowers and honey-bees ; olive plantations 
and fig-grounds hedged in with fences of prickly- 
pear ; vines clothed the hill-sides and were 
trellised over houses, while the palm and the aloe 
gave a tropical character to the luxuriant vege- 
tation. 

The streams that we had seen trickling feebly 
from their rocky source in the gloomy defile now 
meandered across the sunny plain between banks 
fringed with the delicate pink blossom of the 
oleander — all life and brightness. 

The stations were some of them very pretty; 
embowered too in shrubs like the pomegranate, 
plumbago, or Datura lily ; and as a background to 
this Eden-like scene of fertility and beauty rose 
the mountains we had just quitted, capped by the 
snowy crest of the Mulhahagen. 

Ere long now we were in Malaga, which looked 



GRANADA TO MALAGA. 279 

hot, dusty, and " stuffy " at this season. It 
contains upwards of 100,000 inhabitants, but it is 
so soon seen, that a detention there of two days 
whilst waiting for the steamer to Gibraltar was 
a matter of regret. The place is chiefly interest- 
ing from its extreme antiquity, its having been, 
like Cadiz, a Phoenician colony, and from its 
being associated with so many of our compatriots 
who have gone there in search of health but to 
find a grave. 

Seen from the lighthouse which stands at the 
extreme end of a spit of land that half incloses the 
harbour, the town looks well, especially when 
flooded by the sunny haze of evening ; and the 
cathedral has an imposing appearance : whilst the 
hills stretching along the coast in the direction of 
Yelez Malaga, plum-tinted, sunny-peaked, studded 
with villages and gardens, are charming in their 
warm, varied colouring and undulating lines. To 
the south of the city some high chimneys, and the 
smoke they pour forth, rather detract from the 
romantic beauty of the scene, but are good signs 
of manufacturing activity. This road to the light- 
house forms a favourite drive and promenade, 



280 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

answering the purpose of a pier ; and with the 
picturesque land-views, and the boundless expanse 
of the blue Mediterranean to gaze on from thence, 
it is certainly a pleasant as well as a breezy 
lounge. 

But the spot to which all English visitors make 
a pilgrimage is the Cemetery. 

A short drive along the Velez Malaga road 
brings you to it. It lies on a slope looking 
seaward, and though in this garden of the dead 
we miss the mossy turf, the box-borderings, neat 
gravelled-walks and finished appearance that such 
a place would have in old England, still it is 
planted with shrubs and flowers that flourish in 
the richest luxuriance, wreathing the graves with 
green sprays, and shedding sweetest blossoms on 
the earth, beneath which sleep so many of the 
young and fair. 

It is very touching as one wanders among the 
tombs and reads some of the inscriptions, to come 
suddenly upon a familiar name ; and it is almost 
impossible not to do so. 

Eeverently we remove a withered leaf, or twine 
the last young shoot a little higher, glad to 



GRANADA TO MALAGA. 281 

perform this trifling act for the mourners far 
away. 

There is an old Moorish castle here, finely 
situated, and this object and the churches com- 
prise the sights of the town. 

The Cathedral, like most of those in this 
province, is an architectural melange, Corinth 
and Cairo seeming to unite therein, and it has 
only one tower where two were planned ; but from 
its size and position it is a commanding feature in 
Malaga. 

The principal entrance is very fine, the in- 
terior contains some good carvings, and amongst 
the pictures is one by Alonzo Cano. Eoam- 
ing about in the somewhat gloomy-looking 
building, I found myself assisted in my researches 
by two small acolytes, who, just off duty in 
a side chapel, seemed to consider the sight 
of a stranger refreshing, for they tacked them- 
selves on to me most persistently, and could 
not be made to understand they were not 
wanted. It was useless trying to wave them 
away imperiously ; no, one on each side they 
walked, carrying big books, and with big 



282 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

eyes looking up in my face inquiringly, and 
talking seriously all the while, unaware that 
their language was not comprehended. If the 
little fellows had not looked so pretty in their 
white surplices, or whatever their dress is called, 
their pertinacity would have been rather a nui- 
sance ; but who could be angry with such living 
" Murillos," with their dark eyes full of juvenile 
gravity ? 

In fact it is folly resenting the inquisitive- 
ness of Spaniards of any age, as they are in- 
nocent of intending to be rude, and their 
familiarity, though occasionally startling, , is not 
vulgar. 

A droll instance of this occurred here at the 
hotel, as I stopped on one occasion, to make some 
inquiry of the commissionaire : he took the oppor- 
tunity of asking, quietly and respectfully, where I 
had bought the boots I was wearing ! 

The astounded look which this " Who's your 
hatter ?" question made me turn on him, was 
understood, for he hastened to explain that some 
ladies in the house had begged him to obtain the 
information, as they had been trying to get some 



GRANADA TO MALAGA. 283 

boots like them, and could not meet with any in 
the place. 

The answer that they were French, was, I 
fear, scarcely satisfactory. 

The shops are numerous and apparently well 
supplied with "the latest fashions;" for some 
articles that as yet had not been seen on the Rock 
were largely exhibited in the windows. Raisins 
are naturally associated in the domestic mind with 
Malaga ; and on this point, with future plum- 
puddings and cakes in view, it was not pleasant to 
hear that a deficiency was apprehended in the 
raisin crop that year (1870), and that houses 
which usually exported 10,000 boxes would only 
be able to export 2000. 

Here, as in Seville, the hours of evening see the 
population all abroad. 

From the Alameda Hotel it was amusing to 
watch the groups promenading or lounging on the 
seats in the gardens opposite — a chatting, laughing, 
merry crowd that lingered in the cool balmy air 
till late into the night. 

The sea was smooth as glass, and the little 



284 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

Spanish boat " Maria " glided so quietly on her 
way, that the nine hours' steam along the coast 
to Gibraltar was a mere pleasure trip. 

The scenery is charming. Mountains with a 
ferruginous look, shelving gently down to the 
beach ; an occasional town or village, and many 
an old ruined castle : such are its features. 
Intensely bright are the hues of some of those 
jagged peaks and rocky slopes, rent with the 
passage of the rushing torrents of winter ; and we 
are not surprised to hear of iron mines being in 
the vicinity. The pretty town of Marbella, whose 
name is becoming known in England in con- 
nexion with its mines, is delightfully situated on 
the shore, backed by ranges of these ruddy hills, 
and with more distant ones in view, wearing a 
peach-bloom as delicate as beautiful. 

Amidst these fair scenes battles have been 
fought. On yonder plain they say Caesar fought 
for dear life ; and hither — to this Andalucia, 
Tarshish — came the ships of King Solomon. 

Thus persons of various tastes may be interested 
in looking on this lovely shore. 

And now, Estepona passed, a fine effect of light 



OB AN AD A TO MALAGA. 285 

was noticeable looking towards Gibraltar. The 
Rock stood out boldly in purple shadow against 
the sunny sky, and a ray of dazzling brightness 
fell slanting along the slope of silvery sand above 
Catalan Bay. 

It scarcely needed the great eagle swooping 
down and circling round to make it a picture. It 
was like a dream of Turner's. 

Still hugging the land, we passed Monkey's 
Cave, close under Europa looking cool and grey, 
— into the glittering sunshine of the South, — on 
into the harbour. 

In this concluding stage of my journey, as 
throughout it, Fate had befriended me ; for scarcely 
had I stepped on board the steamer at Malaga 
than some ladies whom I had never seen before, 
but to whom it appeared I was known, addressed 
me, to my surprise, by name ; and their kind 
attention contributed greatly to my comfort and 
enjoyment during the day. 

Nothing indeed during this pleasant little tour, 
now un fait accompli, and a delicious memory 
henceforth, was more gratifying than the amiable 
courtesy of all the Spanish people whom I had 



286 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

encountered : nothing more striking than their 
astonishment at seeing a lady performing the 
journey unaccompanied. It taxed their credulity 
to the utmost. 



( 287 ) 



CHAPTER XVI. 

L'ADIEU. 

And now — ere the reader and the writer part, the 
former must step into a small gallery and apart- 
ment adjoining, and after looking out of each of 
the five windows — for there is diversity in the 
views they command — the blue, cool North with 
its rocky ranges, the purple West, with Algeciras 
gleaming white against a dark background, the 
sunny South flooded with blinding light, — must 
hear something of what has been seen from those 
windows besides the natural scenery. 

But first : what is in that basket ? Well, there's 
a snake's skin. The gentleman was in the habit 
of coming into the garden every year to renew his 
wardrobe ; he came for five consecutive seasons, I 
believe, and when he departed, used to leave his 
old clothes behind him. 



288 WORD-SKETCHES IN TEE SWEET SOUTH, 

This is one of his suits. It looks like fine spun 
glass in Venetian work ; or a dainty satin ribbon, 
and must have belonged to a dandy reptile. 

That little black thing ? That is only a tarantula 
spider that was caught on the premises : and those 
canary-coloured creatures with figured black and 
white, lace-like wings, are some locusts that I 
picked up half-alive on the Eastern Beach. There 
had been a swarm of them passing over, and 
thousands were washed ashore that had fallen into 
the sea, exhausted by their flight. 

Barbary was devastated for some distance in- 
land by these rapacious marauders, and the Moors, 
as usual under such a visitation, sallied forth to 
gather them up by the bushel, and to eat them. 

This was assured me as a fact. So it would 
seem, that whether the locust that formed John 
the Baptist's principal food was, as supposed, the 
locust bean, or the insect itself, there would have 
been nothing contrary to ordinary usage amongst 
the wild sons of the desert had it been the veritable 
insect, and not its vegetable namesake, that is 
recorded as having been St. John's chief sus- 
tenance. 



UADIEU. 289 

Hark! The beat of a muffled drum. Beneath 
the sunny heights of Buena Yista stands the 
military and naval hospital : there is the gate, 
and through it a soldier's funeral is slowly emerg- 
ing. Between the waving tops of those canes, or 
the boughs of that pomegranate-tree, we can see 
the sad procession winding along in the lane below 
us, while the band plays that most musically- 
mournful and heart-touching of melodies, Mendels- 
sohn's " Funeral March." 

" It is one of our men they are burying/' says 
a friend : " he was alive and well yesterday 
morning." 

" And being laid in the grave so soon !" The 
rapidity with which interment follows death in 
these warm climates is very awe-inspiring, and 
adds to the agony of final partings here. There is 
no gradual consciousness stealing over the mourner 
that it is but clay he is putting out of his sight ; 
and in cases of sudden death, and they are frequent, 
it may be the being, instinct with life and healthful 
beauty that we are conversing, aye, and laughing 
with one day, who at the same hour the next day 
is lying deep down beneath the fresh-turned sod 

IT 



290 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

that attracts our eye as we ride past the cemetery. 
The mind may become accustomed to such ex- 
periences : they are, however, sharply painful at 
first. 

But turn from this melancholy scene and look 
towards the New Mole, where at this moment all 
is bustle and excitement. 

The troopship is alongside, and the th are 

embarking for Malta. The women and children 
went on board this morning ; and now, company 
by company, in the greatest order, the men are 
being marched on deck. There is frantic hur- 
rahing ; snatches of farewell tunes alternate" from 
the band of the departing regiment, and of the one 
that is " seeing them off." 

Away they go. Wave that tablecloth, — its 
dimensions can alone express the extent of our 
emotions. Pocket-handkerchiefs, pshaw ! They 
are little foolish things under these circumstances, 
quite unequal to the occasion. 

Another departure, of wider extended interest in 
its results, was witnessed from this spot. 

This was the sailing of the Channel squadron 
from Gibraltar on the 1st of July, 1871, a date 



U ADIEU. 291 

memorable by the grounding of the " A gin- 
court." 

At all times it is a beautiful sight to see one 
ironclad after another creep out, wheel into position 
with a celerity of movement perfectly wonderful 
in so huge a mass, and glide away with scarcely 
perceptible motion, in calm grandeur ; after a fussy 
scene of fire-spitting, smoke-curling, and thundering 
reports by way of parting salutation. 

To-day the sky is cloudless, and of intensest 
blue ; the bay reflects it in smooth glassy waters 
that are hardly broken by a ripple ; and the sun- 
beams falling on the straits, produce there a streak 
of dazzling brightness like burnished gold. 

" Auld lang syne " has resounded plaintively, 
tempering our pleasant memories with that touch 
of sadness which is like the print of autumn's finger 
on the flowers of summer. 

No, jolly fellows ! we won't " forget " you ! 

They are under weigh. 

Gradually, the music is heard fainter and fainter, 
the ships look smaller and smaller. 

u Why, the port division seems to be crossing to 
Ape's Hill : only to clear the bay — they turn to 

u 2 



292 WORD-SKETCHES IN TEE SWEET SOUTH. 

the westward now ; and so does the other, — which 
is rather near the Andalusian shore. 

With our attention attracted to this other, — the 
starboard, and our glasses pointed in that direction, 
we presently exclaim : 

" Look ! One of those three has turned sideways. 
Do you see ? Where are they going ? . . . . Ah, 
but it is only one that has "turned sideways," and, 
she doesn't move at all. Isn't it odd ?" 

"The Pearl Rock!" cries Mrs. , after a 

moment's observation. " It is near there. The ship 
must have struck on the rock, — that fatal rock !" 
It is the dread of all mariners, and numerous are 
the disasters that have been caused by this 
treacherous foe : many of the wrecks happening 
there have, moreover, been attended with loss of 
life, the ships foundering before any help could 
reach them. But for a man-of-war to steer straight 
for the danger, was an occurrence unknown 
before, and that could not easily be credited 
now. 

We could distinguish rapid signalling going on. 
The fleet made no further progress for a while, 
and very soon a steam-tug was hurrying from the 



U ADIEU. 293 

Mole, another, and then another, with several 
flat boats like barges in tow. 

Ere long our apprehensions were fully confirmed; 
with the information that the ship which had met 
with the accident was the " Agincourt." 

Her consorts being near her, danger to life was 
fortunately not to be dreaded ; but the excitement 
caused by the nntoward event was nevertheless 
intense, in view of the large amount of money at 
stake in the case of an ironclad of such dimen- 
sions. 

Through the next days — Sunday and Monday — 
the process of taking out guns and stores was 
going on ; and when the ship was thus lightened, 
we watched the ineffectual efforts of the steam- 
tugs to move her. Then we saw her partially 
dismasted, and her neighbour, the great " Hercules" 
being called upon, to aid in the endeavours made 
by the tugs. 

Thus three nights closed in ; and each following 
morning at day-dawn many eyes were strained 
towards the object of our ardent hopes and anxious 
fears. Uncanny it looked in the cold grey dis- 
tance, lying helplessly at the mercy of the winds 



294 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

and waves — that black speck that represented three 
quarters of a million of money. 

On Tuesday afternoon, however, to the universal 
joy, she was extricated from her perilous position, 
and brought back, a poor, mutilated thing, into 
harbour. 

Strange to say, when she was going out after 
another visit to Gibraltar, the following year, and 
we were watching her with redoubled interest from 
remembrance of her previous misfortune, we saw 
her unexpectedly return, having again met with 
trouble — had snapped her chain cable. 

It seemed as if a fatality attended the " Agin- 
court " at this station. 

But a grander spectacle than the sailing of a 
fleet was seen from the room we are in ; one that 
many savans travelled far to see, yet saw not 
nearly as well as we did : the total eclipse of the 
sun, on the 22nd of December, 1870. 

The morning was unfortunately cloudy, and 
at the most critical time, the sun's disc was 
partially obscured ; so much so, that the scientific 
men, who were taking observations from the 



V ADIEU. 295 

Moorish Castle, were doomed to most mortifying 
disappointment. 

At the "South," however, we were more favoured, 
and between the rents in the clouds, and through 
their filmy edges, we caught transient glimpses 
of the eclipse in nearly all its stages, and saw the 
bright " corona " and " red flames " distinctly. 

During the total obscuration, the scene was one 
of inexpressible gloom. 

A grey-green tone pervaded everything — earth, 
sea, and sky : and we looked with a kind of awe 
on each others' faces, grown ghastly as death, as 
they wore the reflex of the weird, strange ap- 
pearance of surrounding Nature. 

The air became heavy ; an unnatural stillness 
reigned, like the quietude which precedes a 
thunderstorm ; and fowls and pet birds seemed 
sorely puzzled, and in some instances went to 
roost. 

But a beautiful feature in this scene of the sun's 
o'ershadowing, in which the sublime and the awful 
predominated, was produced by the two planets, 
Venus and Mercury, shining brightly in a patch 
of dark blue sky at midday ! 



296 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH 

These bright objects were the only ones on 
which the eye could rest, that wore their wonted 
aspect ; yet it was startling to see them at such an 
hour, and they added to the impressiveness of the 
picture. 

The most stolid persons must have been affected 
more or less by the aspect of all things above and 
around ; and during the short time that the extra- 
ordinary sight, such as none who gazed on it 
could well look forward to beholding again, 
continued, all business seemed suspended. 

The regiment in the barracks below us turned 
out on the parade-ground for a better view ; and 
crowds, with eyes directed upwards, stood in silent 
awe while the great Shadow passed. 

As for the Spanish part of the population, who 
are still a prey to superstitious feelings respecting 
eclipses, many thronged the churches, where spe- 
cial services were held for their benefit. 

We, who watched throughout, filled with a pro- 
found and almost overpowering sense of the subli- 
mity of the effect produced by this natural event, 
yet seeing in it but the wondrous order of the 
universe, and the stupendous workings of the 



V ADIEU. 297 

Infinite, breathed more freely when the glorious 
sun at length was restored to us in its brightness, 
and we could once more rejoice in its beneficent 
rays. 



And now — lean with me from this casement, and 
look out upon the night — the dream-like, beautiful 
Southern night. 

The air is richly laden with perfume that floats 
up to us from that Datura lily just beneath us, and 
from the flowers in Tarifa's garden yonder. 

The sea murmurs hushingly, as its waves lap 
the shore ; the shimmering waters form a pathway 
as of "patines of fine gold" below the moon, 
that hangs in the sky, a globe of mellow light ; 
and the luminous stars, looking twice the size they 
do in the North_, also have their chief magnates 
reflected in slender, sparkling columns in the 
purple-tinted bay. 

The rugged outlines of the African mountains 
melt softly away in the pearly distance : all is 
sweet, tender, serenely glowing. 

Once — though it was on a darker night than 



298 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

this — the calm that reigned was broken unexpec- 
tedly, and somewhat roughly, in the cove down 
there beyond those palms. First I heard a move- 
ment on the water, and the play of oars in their 
rowlocks, then voices loud and angry in fierce 
altercation — the clash of arms — shots fired. 

Some smugglers had been pursued by a Spanish 
revenue cutter, and, in the excitement of the chase, 
had been followed into British waters. On near- 
ing the line-wall, they appealed for protection — 
which we owed them under the circumstances of 
the case — and two man-of-war's boats were ordered 
to proceed to their relief. 

However, the sentry at the spot having fired a 
round of blank cartridge, the corsario hastened off, 
and, with another small vessel which was hovering 
about, got clear away, leaving the smugglers, 
whom they had very nearly secured. 

One of the latter had received a severe cutlass 
wound. 

The incident was suggestive of a spider's web 

being swept out of a corner, and the flies released ; 

and without entertaining undue sympathy for the 

ontrabandistas, one could not but be pleased at this 



L'ADIEU. 299 

audacious attempt at their capture being defeated. 
The whole affair was so sudden and unusual, that 
it was difficult to believe it was not a freak of 
imagination. 

It is getting late now. The sentry is calling 
the hour, with the pleasing addition, "All's well !" 
And — you stupid Edward ! 

A deluded donkey has responded to the cry with 
a prolonged " He-haw ! " — from every part of 
" the South" his friends are answering staunchly, 
and a chorus of braying, which lasts a full quarter 
of an hour, follows. Of course each watch-dog 
takes the matter up con spirito — nor is this enough, 
but flocks of turkeys emulating the geese of 
ancient Rome in vigilance if not in wisdom, add 
their quota to the general din ; and the result is a 
horrible discord, such as — 

"Menschen rasend machen kann." 

Sh-ssh — a rocket — and a gun. 

The Mail is in : see her lights there, as she 
moves on into harbour. 

Poor, unfortunate passengers for Gibraltar ! 
Being unable to land till morning gun-fire, they 



300 WORD-SKETCHES IN THE SWEET SOUTH. 

will be transferred to the coal-hulk, alongside 
which the steamer is moored — as that is the clean, 
comfortable arrangement made for them, if they 
arrive in the night. And also when leaving here, 
you are subjected to a similar nuisance should the 
packet that is due not put in before sunset, — you 
have to await her arrival in the Black Hole. 

For coalheavers and "navvies" it might be a 
suitable provision, but it seems strange that be- 
nighted travellers, who have not the advantage of 
belonging to either of those useful professions, 
should be shunted into that grimy receptacle as 
the most appropriate to be found. Can nothing 
be devised — no floating refuge fitter to receive 
ladies and children, lords and luggage, than a 
coal-hulk ? 

But we are lingering too long at this window. 
The moon has sunk to her rest, and probably the 
reader, too, is weary. 



The Mail that takes me back to England is 
signalled early in the day. This is fortunate, as 
one can get on board in good time. 



V ADIEU. 301 

Farewell, then, bright scenes of golden sunshine ! 
" Adieu " to* the fair young faces that beamed like 
light in the dwelling, and to the kind motherly 
ones that smiled on the wanderer to the Rock, and 
made her welcome. 

I gaze on the rosy West, and think — 

" Where are the songs of Summer ? — In the West, 
Blushing their last to the last sunny hours, 
When the mild Eve by sudden Night is prest 
Like tearful Proserpine, snatched from her flowers 
To a most gloomy breast." 

Nay, but warm hearts are waiting in the cold 
Northern land ; and as for the sunshine and the 
flowers of the sweet South — please God, I may 
rejoice in them again. So — au re voir ! 



THE END. 



LONDON : 

PUTNTRD BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, 

STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS. 



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